New Stihl MS390 won't start

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The method described has always worked for my two Stihls. I loaned my MS180 (never again) to a neighbor. I filled both tanks, and started it for him. I shut it off and let him take it. He can back a few minutes later to tell me it wouldn't start. I could do nothing to get it to start. I had to pull the plug and let it dry out. He must have used the choke again and fouled the whole thing up. He walked back to his house with it running because he didn't think it would start again. Now that I know him a little better, I should have known that he would folk it up anyway. If you try some other routine to start your Stihl saw, it probably won't start.
I also will not loan out either of my saws again.
 
Flatbedford said:
The method described has always worked for my two Stihls. I loaned my MS180 (never again) to a neighbor. I filled both tanks, and started it for him. I shut it off and let him take it. He can back a few minutes later to tell me it wouldn't start. I could do nothing to get it to start. I had to pull the plug and let it dry out. He must have used the choke again and fouled the whole thing up. He walked back to his house with it running because he didn't think it would start again. Now that I know him a little better, I should have known that he would folk it up anyway. If you try some other routine to start your Stihl saw, it probably won't start.
I also will not loan out either of my saws again.

someone ask me to loan them a saw I hand them the 460 and they dont even grab it and then you here can you cut it for me.
 
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I have a new 390 also, there's a "spring" on the choke run kill lever, check that if it gets bent it wont start worth a darn. Mine wouldn't start last weekend it had popped off the lever, did a field fix and took it to the shop to have a new one put in. I bought 2 more to have as spares cost a whole 2 bucks, and they showed me how to replace them.
 
smokinjay said:
Flatbedford said:
The method described has always worked for my two Stihls. I loaned my MS180 (never again) to a neighbor. I filled both tanks, and started it for him. I shut it off and let him take it. He can back a few minutes later to tell me it wouldn't start. I could do nothing to get it to start. I had to pull the plug and let it dry out. He must have used the choke again and fouled the whole thing up. He walked back to his house with it running because he didn't think it would start again. Now that I know him a little better, I should have known that he would folk it up anyway. If you try some other routine to start your Stihl saw, it probably won't start.
I also will not loan out either of my saws again.

someone ask me to loan them a saw I hand them the 460 and they dont even grab it and then you here can you cut it for me.

Hahahahaha perfect solution Jay!!! Think I could convince my wife that is why I need a Ported 395XP?
 
HittinSteel said:
smokinjay said:
Flatbedford said:
The method described has always worked for my two Stihls. I loaned my MS180 (never again) to a neighbor. I filled both tanks, and started it for him. I shut it off and let him take it. He can back a few minutes later to tell me it wouldn't start. I could do nothing to get it to start. I had to pull the plug and let it dry out. He must have used the choke again and fouled the whole thing up. He walked back to his house with it running because he didn't think it would start again. Now that I know him a little better, I should have known that he would folk it up anyway. If you try some other routine to start your Stihl saw, it probably won't start.
I also will not loan out either of my saws again.

someone ask me to loan them a saw I hand them the 460 and they dont even grab it and then you here can you cut it for me.

Hahahahaha perfect solution Jay!!! Think I could convince my wife that is why I need a Ported 395XP?


lol that 372 will do the the job......
 
Yeah with the muffler opened up it scares or annoys most people. I bought a Wild Thing last year for $30......... I loan it out to anyone that can start it.
 
I've never been one to set the chain brake when starting a saw. What's the purpose of that? Just so that you don't saw your leg off? Well, I'll have plenty of chances to do that later on if I want to. Is there any actual reason other than safety to set that chain brake?
 
Highbeam said:
I've never been one to set the chain brake when starting a saw. What's the purpose of that? Just so that you don't saw your leg off? Well, I'll have plenty of chances to do that later on if I want to. Is there any actual reason other than safety to set that chain brake?

with my 460 28in. bar I dont want to cut the ground..and I have a habit to start them all with the brake on. Dont know if its right or wrong just what I do.
 
Wile at the shop yesterday I was told not to set the brake ever it was only a safety and I would ruin the clutch drum if it is used all the time....

Not at start up and not when at idle and not in use....

I think I will keep using it all the time as I always have tho...
 
I have on 039 that is nearly impossible to start after it has warmed up. Is the same true for it (no more than run setting on the run/choke lever)? If so, how many pulls should one expect before it fires? Thanks!!
 
I have on 039 that is nearly impossible to start after it has warmed up. Is the same true for it (no more than run setting on the run/choke lever)? If so, how many pulls should one expect before it fires? Thanks!!

Old thread but here we go....

Warm saw should be a 1 tug re-start. Just flick the switch to run and go.

You can try the half-choke position too (doesn't really choke the saw, just cracks the throttle) if the saw doesn't reliably fire on 1 pull (but it should). Squeeze trigger and go to full choke like a cold start then flick the switch up one position.

Cold Stihl with no primer bulb can take 6-7 pulls to get it primed and rolling. Listen for any kind of pop, cough, or fart. The least little burble and she's ready.

Decomp is optional depending on the operator. Use it if you want. Should always pop back out when the saw burbles. Punch it in again and give it the last tug. Often a warm saw is much easier to pull than a cold saw so I only wind up using it on a cold-start.
 
My 390 takes 5 pulls on full choke, then burps, the half choke and it goes. My 880, starts faster. I guess I could try to flip it up at 3 or 4 without a burp.

I did have one time when it just would not start. My easy trick to see if there is a spark is to pull the plug and leave the line on, pull gently and look for a spark. If no spark you know there is an issue with the electronics. Mine was a coil wire came loose that the stihl rep fixed for free.
 
Skip the decomp valve completely imo. Other than that, 3-4 pulls on full choke cold, go to next click & she'll fire up. Only saw I ever used the decomp valve on was an old Mac. That mutha bucked every time you started it, & it had enough cc's to dislocate your shoulder. A C

Oh yea, I'd make sure that saw is properly tuned if somebody else modded it too.
 
I actually put a regular cord/handle on my 460 after I broke the elasto start when I pulled it without the decomp button pushed. Didn't surprise me at all, thought it was going to break everytime I fired the saw up.

Just another idea here if you want a helping hand without useing the decompression release . Install an elastostart recoil . It helps alot . I have them on all my saws 026 on up . only the 460 do i use the decomp alot , or if it gets towards the end of the day and I am tired after starting the saw about 50 times .

As far as the chain brake I very rarely use it. About the only time I can think of is it I'm hand filing the chain.
 
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