New to woodstoving and struggling to heat our house!

[very_rachel]

We just bought a house that has electric baseboards and a woodstove. We thought we could mostly heat with wood but have been struggling to keep it warm enough. I'm looking for advice. Here are some facts:

• I live in the West Kootenays (interior BC). We get winter and lots of snow, but it's not super cold. Right now we've been getting lows of -2C (28F) and highs only a couple degrees warmer.
• The house is a flat roof 2 story house built in 1965. Approx. 2600 sq ft. It's shaped like a rectangle and originally there were 2 fireplaces on the west walls (short side of the rectangle). One fireplace upstairs, one downstairs. They share one chimney and the chimney is on the outside of the house.
• The upstairs fireplace has been retrofitted with a Pacific Energy wood burning insert
• We bought some cured firewood which is fir. We can't get hardwood here. I've measured with a moisture meter and it's 15%

I've been trying to load up the stove and let it burn down before reloading. One load seems to last about 4 hours before I add more wood. Once it's going, I damp it down about 3/4 of the way. We are barely able to keep the main area on the main floor (kitchen, diningroom, living room, appox 1000 sq ft) at 18/19 degrees C (64F). I thought it would be a lot hotter! A couple of things of note: The stove does have a blower, but it's broken. We're waiting for the new one to come it, and also need to replace the baffle blanket, door seal, and window seal.

We have a lot of windows on one side of the main floor. We're looking at replacing them (some are from 1985, some are from 1965, and some are newer) but I'm not sure how much of a difference that will make.

Does anyone have advice on how to make it hotter in here? Should I load wood more often even though it is not as efficient? Will a working blower make a huge difference (we hope!) Any help would be appreciated.

 

[Wildflush]

The blower will help. I use a VODA fan on top of my Pacific Energy Vista. When the power goes out it still works. It really helps move air. Our stove is small only 1.6 firebox. Our house is a Cape 1,900 sqft. Last night it was 28 and our main floor where stove is located was 76 and upstairs 72. I would look at how insulated your house is. Good windows make a big difference. Our house was built in 2000 but our slider and a few windows started getting drafty so replaced them. A tight house makes a huge difference retaining heat.

 

[weee123]

The problem is, is you have an insert with no blower. Without the blower it won’t heat no where near what it’s rated for as all the heat is stuck in the fireplace instead of being blown out into the room. Unlike a free standing stove that doesn’t need a blower an insert (especially one with the block off plates) basically needs it to properly heat.

Also turning down more to 90% closed fr the intake will net you more heat out of the stove and less up the flue pipe. Definitely get the gaskets replaced as that can lead to uncontrollable fires. Also the baffle blanket really helps the stove burn more efficiently as wel.

 

[Dix]

Welcome to the Forums!!
These issues are very important-

" A couple of things of note: The stove does have a blower, but it's broken. We're waiting for the new one to come it, and also need to replace the baffle blanket, door seal, and window seal."

Without these components, you are limping along. Get those replaced, and you'll see a huge difference .

A pic of the insert will help to identify the model. Fire box size plays a huge factor here.

 

[Locust99]

As mentioned, once you have the blower working that will help. 2600 square feet is a lot of house to heat though for a stove. Not sure the cubic ft of your wood stove, but you would likely need a very large stove to heat that size space solely off of wood . More than likely you will need to supplement with electric heat on the colder days.

Your stove will definitely help reduce how much you need to use the rest of the heat though . Hopefully you can get the blower quick .

 

[begreen]

The insert will heat somewhat without the blower. It's helped by its projection out onto the hearth a bit but the real output will come with the blower running. Even at low speed, it will make a notable difference. Was a block-off plate installed to seal off the damper area? That will also improve heat output.

Did you get the insert used or new? The Summit has two blowers. If both are not working then it could the thermostatic snap switch is not working or the speed control is bad.

 

[rudysmallfry]

Is there any insulation above? I know you said it's a flat roof. I'm not sure how that works in terms of insulation. I know it made a huge difference in terms of how well my house held heat after I added better insulation anywhere I could fit it. I also went through the entire house sealing up any air leaks I could find. Replacing the windows should help. Also, know that some species of wood throw more heat than others, but that's something you'll work out as you get used to the stove.

 

[BC_Josh]

Hi. I'm in the West Kootenays too. I'm following because I'm curious to learn how this all goes. The West Kootenays is wet and mild in comparison with so many drier areas with their colder winters. I'm having trouble heating my whole house recently with my wee wood stove too. I installed a ceiling fan and it helps a bit, but the kitchen is very cool while the living room with the stove is warm, and the adjacent bedrooms are nice. Frustrating.... It sounds like your house, however, is just too large for the size of your woodstove insert to work best. You could upgrade... or keep using the electric baseboards as a background light heating to boost the heat up a little bit, but we all know what it's like to see the power companies want more and more money all the time.

 

[Todd]

New blower will help but in the meantime if you can remove the surround if you have on and place a small fan on the floor blowing cool air towards the insert that should help push some heat out.

 

[very_rachel]

Hi. I'm in the West Kootenays too. I'm following because I'm curious to learn how this all goes. The West Kootenays is wet and mild in comparison with so many drier areas with their colder winters. I'm having trouble heating my whole house recently with my wee wood stove too. I installed a ceiling fan and it helps a bit, but the kitchen is very cool while the living room with the stove is warm, and the adjacent bedrooms are nice. Frustrating.... It sounds like your house, however, is just too large for the size of your woodstove insert to work best. You could upgrade... or keep using the electric baseboards as a background light heating to boost the heat up a little bit, but we all know what it's like to see the power companies want more and more money all the time.

I'm in Rossland! We're nearly neighbours. I don't expect the wood stove to heat the entire house. It's on the second floor, so it's not going to heat the basement at all. But the second floor of the house is 1500 sq feet and the stove is rated for 2000.

As mentioned, once you have the blower working that will help. 2600 square feet is a lot of house to heat though for a stove. Not sure the cubic ft of your wood stove, but you would likely need a very large stove to heat that size space solely off of wood . More than likely you will need to supplement with electric heat on the colder days.

Your stove will definitely help reduce how much you need to use the rest of the heat though . Hopefully you can get the blower quick .

Yes, we'll definitely need to heat with electricity, especially because the stove is on the second floor of the house, but the floor it's on is 1500 sq feet and the stove is rated for 2000. Sounds like the blower will make a big difference.

The insert will heat somewhat without the blower. It's helped by its projection out onto the hearth a bit but the real output will come with the blower running. Even at low speed, it will make a notable difference. Was a block-off plate installed to seal off the damper area? That will also improve heat output.

Did you get the insert used or new? The Summit has two blowers. If both are not working then it could the thermostatic snap switch is not working or the speed control is bad.

The insert came installed with the house when we purchased it. It's a Pacific Insert Series D and it's probably around 10 years old.

Welcome to the Forums!!
These issues are very important-

" A couple of things of note: The stove does have a blower, but it's broken. We're waiting for the new one to come it, and also need to replace the baffle blanket, door seal, and window seal."

Without these components, you are limping along. Get those replaced, and you'll see a huge difference .

A pic of the insert will help to identify the model. Fire box size plays a huge factor here.

It's a Pacific Energy - Pacific Insert Series D

 

[begreen]

Thanks for the clarification. The Pacific is a single blower unit. If the blower doesn't work with the switch in bypass mode then it's either the blower or the speed control that needs replacing. The blower is pricy, but aftermarket versions are available at a much lower cost.

Pacific Energy Insert Replacement Blower: 80000906

Replacement Blower for Pacific Energy Super and Summit Series Wood Insert Stoves. May also fit other models.

pellet-stove-parts-4less.com

Member Dix has the earlier version of this insert and knows it well.

 

[BC_Josh]

Hi again. I'm in Nelson. 😏Yep, only an hour drive away from each other. Welcome to the forums and best of luck figuring out your heating needs this winter. So far, it's mild, but it'll get colder soon enough. Luckily, I got some larch for the winter. Mostly fir though. But, it's good wood and it's nice and dry, too.

 

[BC_Josh]

We have a lot of windows on one side of the main floor. We're looking at replacing them (some are from 1985, some are from 1965, and some are newer) but I'm not sure how much of a difference that will make.

Does anyone have advice on how to make it hotter in here? Should I load wood more often even though it is not as efficient? Will a working blower make a huge difference (we hope!) Any help would be appreciated.

Newer windows should make a lot of difference if you're going from single pane to double glaze. Otherwise, consider putting a layer of plastic on your windows to make it warmer. I know, it's not as nice as looking out a glass pane, it makes the view a bit blurry or wavy looking, but it will save a lot of heat loss. And, I think hardware stores now sell a kind of plastic that you can use a blow dryer on to make it smooth, if I remember correctly.

 

[Dix]

Thanks for the clarification. The Pacific is a single blower unit. If the blower doesn't work with the switch in bypass mode then it's either the blower or the speed control that needs replacing. The blower is pricy, but aftermarket versions are available at a much lower cost.

Pacific Energy Insert Replacement Blower: 80000906

Replacement Blower for Pacific Energy Super and Summit Series Wood Insert Stoves. May also fit other models.

pellet-stove-parts-4less.com

Member Dix has the earlier version of this insert and knows it well.

You bet your Bippy I know this stove well.

It's a work horse, when maintained.

AS mentioned, a small box fan blowing across the front of the insert will help with moving the heat until the blower motor comes in.

 

[very_rachel]

You bet your Bippy I know this stove well.

It's a work horse, when maintained.

AS mentioned, a small box fan blowing across the front of the insert will help with moving the heat until the blower motor comes in.

Thanks! If you have any other tips or advice for this stove, I'd love to hear them

 

[Wisco Shepherd]

New blower will help but in the meantime if you can remove the surround if you have on and place a small fan on the floor blowing cool air towards the insert that should help push some heat out.

This. I heat with a relatively small (1.6 cu ft) firebox and having a box fan at the other end of the house moving air towards the stove has made a significant difference. Get that blower fixed.

 

[Dix]

A couple of things of note: The stove does have a blower, but it's broken. We're waiting for the new one to come it, and also need to replace the baffle blanket, door seal, and window seal.

Thanks! If you have any other tips or advice for this stove, I'd love to hear them

Seasoned firewood, the insert LOVES it! Get ahead now

Leave door ajar when starting a fire until the blower kicks in ( I know you have to wait for the blower), then close door and shut air down 1/2 way. You should see the secondaries kicking in at the baffle at the top of the stove



Note the flames at the top. Also note the thermometer over the top right side, get one of those. And remember, with the thermo placed as such, your interior temps are actually 100 - 200 degrees higher than the thermo reads. But, it's the best placing for this situation.

Shut the air down gradually as the temps start to rise (again the secondaries are key here).

I'm sure I'll think of more info, give me a bit

 

[very_rachel]

Seasoned firewood, the insert LOVES it! Get ahead now

Leave door ajar when starting a fire until the blower kicks in ( I know you have to wait for the blower), then close door and shut air down 1/2 way. You should see the secondaries kicking in at the baffle at the top of the stove

View attachment 318073

Note the flames at the top. Also note the thermometer over the top right side, get one of those. And remember, with the thermo placed as such, your interior temps are actually 100 - 200 degrees higher than the thermo reads. But, it's the best placing for this situation.

Shut the air down gradually as the temps start to rise (again the secondaries are key here).

I'm sure I'll think of more info, give me a bit

Can you share more information on how you use the thermometer? Thanks!

 

[Dix]

Can you share more information on how you use the thermometer? Thanks!

Sure!

Thermo is magnetic, sticks to the face of the stove. Placement location is the best (IMHO) for the most accurate reading you can get without access to the stove top, as in a freestanding unit.

Insert cruises at 600 - 700F when rockin' & rollin' . Sometimes higher , ask me how I know

****CAVEAT**** The thermo temps showing are about 100 - 200F higher in the firebox, then what you see on the thermo!!

Start fire, kindling, Super Cedars, what ever. Get it going, add the uglies for more combustion. Fan kicks on at about 300F. Which is when I close the door & turn the air down 1/2 way. Secondaries should kick in soon, if not already. As the temps go up, slowly add 1-2 splits and build your coal bed (temps are 400 - 500F at this point). Let it cruise for a reload @ about 300F, open air, reload, start shutting it down at around 450F. Cut down air as it climbs up, Air all the way down @ about 500 - 550F. Fully loaded, you should have your overnight / daytime burn on decent hardwoods, less with softwoods, which will show 600 - 700F or more on the thermo. Overnight burn is 6-8 hours depending on fire size needed, wood used, etc. Heat output 8 - 10 hours.

The thermo, I have found, is a very useful tool. I keep extra on hand, they can crap out all of a sudden <insert Brother Bart fav face here 💘 >

 

[very_rachel]

Sure!

Thermo is magnetic, sticks to the face of the stove. Placement location is the best (IMHO) for the most accurate reading you can get without access to the stove top, as in a freestanding unit.

Insert cruises at 600 - 700F when rockin' & rollin' . Sometimes higher , ask me how I know

****CAVEAT**** The thermo temps showing are about 100 - 200F higher in the firebox, then what you see on the thermo!!

Start fire, kindling, Super Cedars, what ever. Get it going, add the uglies for more combustion. Fan kicks on at about 300F. Which is when I close the door & turn the air down 1/2 way. Secondaries should kick in soon, if not already. As the temps go up, slowly add 1-2 splits and build your coal bed (temps are 400 - 500F at this point). Let it cruise for a reload @ about 300F, open air, reload, start shutting it down at around 450F. Cut down air as it climbs up, Air all the way down @ about 500 - 550F. Fully loaded, you should have your overnight / daytime burn on decent hardwoods, less with softwoods, which will show 600 - 700F or more on the thermo. Overnight burn is 6-8 hours depending on fire size needed, wood used, etc. Heat output 8 - 10 hours.

The thermo, I have found, is a very useful tool. I keep extra on hand, they can crap out all of a sudden <insert Brother Bart fav face here 💘 >

Are the temps you give above what the thermometer reads or what the thermometer reads plus the extra 100-200?

I'm also wondering when you fully load it, approximately how long do you leave it wide open (in time)?

 

[Dix]

Are the temps you give above what the thermometer reads or what the thermometer reads plus the extra 100-200?

I'm also wondering when you fully load it, approximately how long do you leave it wide open (in time)?

It's what the thermo reads.

When I fully load it, I shut it down in increments, keeping the secondaries engaged.