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New Toy for Huffdawg!

Post in 'The Boiler Room - Wood Boilers and Furnaces' started by huffdawg, Nov 13, 2013.

  1. huffdawg

    huffdawg Minister of Fire

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    [​IMG]

    Soon to be online

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  2. jebatty

    jebatty Minister of Fire

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    How come it's not a black box?
  3. billb4

    billb4 New Member

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    >>>> Oh-kay ........
    Recognize the electrical box enclosures
    the rest- not so much

    is that a rectal thermometer on the left ?
    Last edited: Nov 14, 2013
  4. willyswagon

    willyswagon Burning Hunk

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    Ya I'm looking at that gear and I'm thinking, I'm not going to go play there if that's what he calls "A New Toy!"
  5. Coal Reaper

    Coal Reaper Minister of Fire

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    what all yah got there?
  6. Donl

    Donl Feeling the Heat

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    I bet you will end up controlling and monitoring more than your boiler. Have fun and enjoy. You will learm alot.
  7. huffdawg

    huffdawg Minister of Fire

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  8. rkusek

    rkusek Minister of Fire

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    I got that black box with dial on the right, wish I had the rest of it too. How are you using the 4 way valve control?
  9. huffdawg

    huffdawg Minister of Fire

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    [​IMG]
    I have a 150 gal. hydraulic separator and 1000 gals. storage. My 4 way valve is between them its plumbed like the drawing above. as suggested by Bob Rohr
  10. Nofossil

    Nofossil Moderator Emeritus

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    Gee - that hardware looks kinda familiar ;-)

    Can't wait to see it installed and running. Good luck with it, and thanks for sharing.
  11. huffdawg

    huffdawg Minister of Fire

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    I have been hummin and hawing the last few days trying to decide where I'm going to install. It will be installed in a Harry Potter sort of room underneath a stairwell that is adjacent to the boiler room . There is the odd 110v conductor running in the stud bays where I want to install hopefully they won't interfere with the contoller operation.
  12. Nofossil

    Nofossil Moderator Emeritus

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    Shouldn't be a problem. I'd avoid running sensor cables alongside power lines for long distances, but even that's more of a precaution than a requirement. If you want to use the front panel LEDs as status indicators or use the front panel switch for manual mode setting (Winter / Summer, for instance) then you'd want to put it where you can see it and get to it easily. Otherwise, it really doesn't matter.
  13. Donl

    Donl Feeling the Heat

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    Huff, While I don't recommend it, I have a 50 foot underground run of 2 inch conduit in which I run 8 sensors, 4 digital outs, 2 ethernet cables along side a 12 gauge 120 volt feed. I've had no problems with this. Also the longest runs I have for sensor and digital cables is 125 feet. Again no problems with this. Very reliable and robust system.
  14. huffdawg

    huffdawg Minister of Fire

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    Install underway[​IMG][​IMG][​IMG]
  15. Nofossil

    Nofossil Moderator Emeritus

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    Nice! I'd pull the thermocouple back a couple of inches so that the tip is nearer the center of the flue and so that the molded 'handle' isn't touching the hot metal.
  16. mr.fixit

    mr.fixit Member

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    What is this system going to control other than the 4 way?
  17. huffdawg

    huffdawg Minister of Fire

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    2 DHW circs , house supply loop circ, storage circ, shop floor circ, suite floor circ etc.
  18. mr.fixit

    mr.fixit Member

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    Will it replace the factory controller on the EKO?
  19. huffdawg

    huffdawg Minister of Fire

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    No . The boiler is stand alone. But there is a few thing u could control on the boiler if wanted to.
  20. Nofossil

    Nofossil Moderator Emeritus

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    I'm a bit more hard-core than most (and maybe more than is prudent). I control the blower, the main circulator and the bypass circulator on my EKO with mine. Huff's approach is more reasonable - let the boiler do its own thing, but manage the heat loads and storage to optimize the boiler's operation.

    Here's a chart from last season where I'm controlling the EKO fan (fan scale is % of full speed) to try and hold 1100 degrees combustion temp (combustion temp is divided by 10 to fit on the scale). You can see the purge cycles - have to do that every so often to avoid puffing when running at reduced fan speed.

    While this is possible, I'd regard it as experimental. Varying circulator speed to maintain outlet temp is a lot more straightforward.


    [​IMG]
    Last edited: Nov 21, 2013
  21. Donl

    Donl Feeling the Heat

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    I would suggest that the VECS controller can provide much better control of the boiler than the standard EKO controller.
    The VECS can monitor stack temperatures, input and output water temperatures and make appropriate adjustments to fan speed to optimise the burn.
  22. huffdawg

    huffdawg Minister of Fire

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    Nofo. Is the graph showing a max temp of 550f for flue temp
  23. huffdawg

    huffdawg Minister of Fire

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    upload_2013-11-21_22-13-43.png

    All righty then.... got some temps popping up on my Vesta Home screen..!!!
    Last edited: Nov 22, 2013
  24. Nofossil

    Nofossil Moderator Emeritus

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    Nice! Good to see a screen capture. Have you played with datalogging? If you go to the 'Logs' tab and click on any date, you'll get a spreadsheet of all the temps, inputs, outputs, and variables for the day in one minute increments. You can use Excel (or OpenOffice) to make pretty graphs to see what happened.

    Yes, that's 550 degrees flue temp. I have the EKO 25 which has very short HX tubes, leading to higher flue temps than other boilers :-(

    Note that this measurement is VERY different from what you get with the magnetic stick-on flue temp gauges. My magnetic gauge never goes above 250.

    I'm also not sure how well calibrated the thermocouple is. I rely on the mathematics of the circuitry since I don't have a high temperature reference standard, but a second commercial thermocouple gives very similar numbers.

    Part of the reason I'm playing with fan control is to lower the velocity of the flue gasses through the HX tubes and maybe capture an occasional BTU that might have escaped otherwise.
  25. huffdawg

    huffdawg Minister of Fire

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    I'm getting 750f flue temps , tubes must need cleaning.

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