Can you run both chimneys parallel to the masonry chimney? If so, you could possibly box all of them and make a wood chase as one large chimney. A wood chased chimney would look pretty good if your house is more of a contemporary design.
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Here is a pic of the master bath where the chimneys run. the stone chimney is over 200yrs old and as far as I can tell is incooperated in the 2' stone wall which is just on the other side of the sheet rock and linen closet you see here. As you can see the stainless chimney comes up into the linen closed then is routed into the stone chimney. So what your saying is forget about the stone chimney and run the two stainless straight through the roof covering them with a box, kinda like the linen closet but all the way through the roof? I like that Idea I thought about extending the linen closet to the celing but my wife was too keen on the idea. said she liked the way it looked now. I bet I could extend it to the celing and put some stone veneer on it. My main concern would be I'm almost positive I will have to cut a truss. I'm never lucky enough to land in the center. And i would also have to cut into the main support on the peak I'm sure I could do it although I have never done it before so I'm a bit nervous.
Alright still thinking out loud. I really starting to lean towards installing the second chimney parallel with the the oil furnace's chimney. As Eric said earlier if I steal the oil furnace's chimney then I have no back up and if something came up to where I need to skip town for a few weeks then I would be sol. I already have 22 1/2' of 8" stainless with a tee connector and cap laying in my garage might as well put it to good use right? my major concern still lies in I have to run the pair of chimneys directly through the peak. Are there any carpenters out there that know what I need to do this? Or if it is even possible while maintaining structural integrity and water tightness.
In suggesting a wood chase, I thought your flues were on the outside which is why I couldn't quite understand about entering the original stone chimney. After looking at your photos, I think bringing that closet all the way to the ceiling would look great. Judging by the location of the flues in the closet you may just clear the rafters, I think you may be between the first and second rafters. If you were to penetrate the roof, you can cut out around the flues, you will have to cut back the shingles, frame the chase, trim in wood, vinyl, or even stone veneer, cap it. When doing this you will have to flash the chase first before you trim and replace the roofing. When I built my house 21 yrs ago I didn't use masonry chimneys, I used triple wall galv. on my fireplace with a wood chase that goes through my roof, and I used 2 flues in Metalbestos SS for my oil and wood boilers, that chase runs on the outside of my house and is only flashed on one side. Tomorrow I can take and post some pics. Currently there are many stone veneers commercially available that would look great, I kinda wish they made them back then.
Well bartman if they are regular rafters with basic strapping I will have it made. My worries are the house was built in 1802 and there is hand honed support beams in more than one place in the house. If there is one of these monsters on the other side of the ceiling I would never be able to get a chimney through I don't think. unless I offset it to one side or the other.
If you did habe to offset the flues it wouldn't be a terrible thing. Working with Metalbestos is relatively easy since you can get so many different fittings. What you should really be careful of is the use of elbows and tees, they really affect the draft readings. About a month ago I stumbled upon a website for the heating industry and the author who has written books about efficient combustion. Here's the link, I have found it very informative, I didn't realize these fittings had so much of a detrimental affect on flue pipe installations. http://fueloilnews.com/uploads/features/2006/0604_feature3.asp
Well lets hope I can go straight up and out, because I have no Idea what make of chimney I have. I thought it looked like supervent but when I took a piece in they would not fit together. so I don't know where I would start to find replacement parts for it. A big concern for me is finding a Pipe adapter and box for the first through floor fitting.
Looking closely at your pics, the pipe doesn't look like Supervent, or Metalbestos, see if you can find any tags or stampings on the pipe. Metalbestos makes Supervent, they look alike but don't interchange. Supervent was made for home store distribution and is a bit cheaply made in comparison to the Metalbestos brand.
The pics of the chimney in the linen closet is what is attached to the oil burner. I am going to install a seperate pipe which I have in my garage for the wood stove. I have decided to keep the oil burner as a back up. I'm not at home right now but I think I have a piece of it in my car if you would like to see it. I have about 25' of it but none of it has any tags on it. I have 1 tee,1 cap piece, and 9 straight pieces.
If you can post a pic, that would be great, Simpson also makes ss class A, there is another brand called AirJet too.
Got home today and found a stamp on the chimney cap it is 8" Metalbestos SS. Now I should be able t find parts.
If it's Metalbestos that's great, you can check their website to match the photos of their products to see if they are the same. One word of note though, sometimes Metalbestos caps can be used on other chimney brands because the newer Metalbestos caps are more of a universal fit compared withe the earlier series. When I changed my caps I noticed that the company changed the design, my originals had a lock band where the newer ones had straps.
Is metalbestos better than other brands or somthing.? I was looking at a few different sites and could not believe the price.
Well I wonder if I have another brand or something because only the cap had metalbestos ss stamped right into the stainless. All the straight pieces used to have a sticker on them but they are long gone.
It seems to be about the best made, very durable, I would imagine other companies are probably equal nowadays. Supervent is cheaper, but even though it's made by Metalbestos, looks like Metalbestos, it's not the same size.
ok, So I know that the chimney cap is metalbestos, but I'm not convinced that the rest of the pipe is metalbestos. The pipe seems to be of a little lesser grade as in a magnet will stick to it. So if the the pipe is not metalbestos and the cap will fit it does that mean the the rest of the metalbestos products will fit the pipe also? I really need to get the adapter to fit the black pipe into and a celing box for a vaulted celing. Until I do my install is on hold
I think Metalbestos did make a galvanized insulated pipe, I believe I saw some on a job I was doing, it was used for an oil fired boiler. That house is about 35 yrs old though. Can you post a close-up picture of it?
Yeah, I'll post one on monday. I found out that ace hardware carries metalbestos so I call them up and they said that they had some 8" in stock so I think what I'm going to do is just take a piece out there and see if it fits together. I sure hope it does because the only thing that is holding me back is the chimney. The water heater just used the last bit of fuel oil so my wife is really wanting to get the boiler in so she can take a bath again. I have another water heater on the other side of the house for a different shower but she really likes her evening baths, the kids don't like showers much either.
So I was thinking in a vaulted celing with out an attic there is going to be a hole in the roof that is going to open to the air under the chinmey cone/flashing. To keep the draft out I should be able to build a wooden box keep the 2" clearance arround the pipe right? Then on the bottom of the box what do I do just install a celing support box to keep the draft from going out the bottom of the box or what. Is there a special vaulted celing kit? I have never done a chimney on a vaulted celing before.
Yeah I'm probably going to continue the closet to the celing and trim the out side with a stone veneer of some sort.
If you do that, you should only have to use the through the roof kit with a ceiling collar and make a ceiling in the closet a couple of feet down. That should do it. Lowes carries through the roof kits, the brand that they carry is Supervent, the kit comes with everything but the pipe, Ace probably can order it for you too.
I think I see what your saying. Just put in a false celing in the cabinet and insulate that up to the celing kit and on the outer walls. Makes sense. Think I might try to find a cement footer form that will encompas the pipe and the celing kit up to the vaulted celing then just blow some insulation to fill the void arround the form Thus keeping me air tight and warm and my 2" clearance. Thanks. The super vent celing kits will work with any Pipe? If that is the case then Would I just need the correct adapter for my black pipe?
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