Newb chainsaw purchase

[CNY Joe]

Have been following this thread with interest as I'm in the same boat and have decided on the 5100s as well. Was wondering if Brian VT got the 5100s and initial thoughts after carving up a few logs-

 

[carbon neutral]

CNY JOE, any dealers in your area?

 

[Brian VT]

Not yet. I haven't been able to make time to get over there. My opinion on the saw won't matter much anyway since I don't have anything to compare it to.
Have you been to arboristsite.com ? Lots of info from pros and hackers alike there.

 

[Brian VT]

Got the 5100S today. Like I said earlier, I don't know nuthin' about saws except what I've read on the 'net.
The thing sounds friggin' great. I'm amazed at how fast the power comes on. It's like a light switch.
Mine was the sixth 5100s that dealer sold today. He wasn't much interested in giving a deal or throwing in accessories. Can't blame him for that if they're selling that well.
I don't have any real wood to cut yet but plan to visit a logger buddy and have him give me some lessons before my logs show up. He's a big Stihl fan so I'm anxious to
have him try this saw and give his opinion. I'll be sure to post it here.

 

[Brian VT]

don't use the spikes, use the chain to cut the wood.
Chad

I watched some videos on Stihl's site. Good stuff.
They tell you to cut with the spikes hooked in and rotate. What's the deal ? I think Chad is saying that a sharp chain would do it's job without being forced
by the leverage you get from the spikes. If you've got to lever it then something ain't right ? Correct ?

 

[Shipper50]

don't use the spikes, use the chain to cut the wood.
Chad

I watched some videos on Stihl's site. Good stuff.
They tell you to cut with the spikes hooked in and rotate. What's the deal ? I think Chad is saying that a sharp chain would do it's job without being forced
by the leverage you get from the spikes. If you've got to lever it then something ain't right ? Correct ?

I am no pro with a saw, but I only use the spikes when felling a tree or something really big on the ground. Yes a sharp chain will do the work without having to push or spike the wood.

Take your time and you will love your 5100, its the best feeling saw I have ever run.

Shipper

 

[Gooserider]

don't use the spikes, use the chain to cut the wood.
Chad

I watched some videos on Stihl's site. Good stuff.
They tell you to cut with the spikes hooked in and rotate. What's the deal ? I think Chad is saying that a sharp chain would do it's job without being forced
by the leverage you get from the spikes. If you've got to lever it then something ain't right ? Correct ?

I think the argument is that using the spikes (more properly called dogs) gives you an additional point of contact for the saw to help stabilize it and resist any kickback forces. Since a normal downcut is going to pull the saw forwards into the dogs there is some sense to this. At the same time, I don't think the advantage is great enough to justify doing a lot of bending into less comfortable working positions or repositioning a log just to use them.

It is also important to note that even when using the dogs you shouldn't be "levering" through the wood with them. The idea is more to use the dogs as a pivot point to let the saw rotate around, as opposed to holding the saw level and moving it straight up and down - either way the chain should cut without being "pushed".

When I do use the dogs, which is mostly on larger logs, I tend to use a sort of "see-saw" motion - Start the cut with the dogs in contact, rotating the tip downwards to a comfortable point, then pulling back on the saw just enough to disengage the dogs, and cut down with the rear of the saw while holding the tip more or less steady, then pushing the dogs back in and repeating - harder to describe than it is to do...

Gooserider

 

[Brian VT]

harder to describe than it is to do...

Gooserider

Nope. Good description. Thanks.