1. Welcome Hearth.com Guests and Visitors - Please enjoy our forums!
    Hearth.com GOLD Sponsors who help bring the site content to you:
    Hearthstone Soapstone and Cast-Iron stoves( Wood, Gas or Pellet Stoves and Inserts)

Newb with questions...

Post in 'The Hearth Room - Wood Stoves and Fireplaces' started by OregonTRX4, Nov 12, 2013.

  1. OregonTRX4

    OregonTRX4 New Member

    Joined:
    Nov 12, 2013
    Messages:
    3
    Loc:
    Oregon
    Hi all, I have a few questions. Pictured below is my setup.

    Do the joints of this pipe require some type of buttle tape/sealant or just held together with the bracket and screwing together? The bends dont seem to be a tight fit. The pipe simply slides into the stove top with nothing keeping it there other than its own weight.

    I am able to get fires to burn good and hot but no matter what when I open the door smoke will fill the room. Even with cracking the door for a while and the fire being hot. No difference weather a window is open. Pipe is clean and the chimney extends 4 feet above roof line. No trees near by.

    Thirdly, I was thinking about swapping this stove for another that my parents have.(Nicer, Newer) Do they make an adapter that i could go from the double wall to single wall down to the new stove? Would make it easier to attach and cheaper.

    I did read some of the faq's.

    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]

    Helpful Sponsor Ads!





  2. firefighterjake

    firefighterjake Minister of Fire

    Joined:
    Jul 22, 2008
    Messages:
    15,424
    Loc:
    Unity/Bangor, Maine
    All stove pipe should be connected with a minimum of 3 screws at each joint to hold the sections together. Sometimes folks will also smear some stove cement on the inside joint for a tighter fit. Stove connections may or may not have a screw or two or three to secure the pipe . . . sometimes folks without screws or screw holes will drill their own for the peace of mind.

    Smoke issues . . . sounds like you're doing everything right. You say the stove is hot (how hot though is another question -- do you have a stove top thermometer or flue thermometer -- this would be helpful) . . . you've tried cracking the door a bit before opening it instead of just flinging it open. Assuming the fire has been going for a bit . . . at this point I would guess it is a drafting issue. You say the chimney is 4 feet above the roof line . . . is it 4 feet above the roof line 10 feet out? Also, what is the total length of the chimney . . . sometimes folks install too short of a chimney in a single story home and have some draft issues.

    Welcome to the forum.
  3. Grisu

    Grisu Minister of Fire

    Joined:
    Nov 1, 2010
    Messages:
    2,533
    Loc:
    Chittenden, VT
    How dry is your wood? That blackened glass and smoldering fire in your picture suggests it is not fully seasoned. Burning wet wood could contribute to your smoke problems. Is that stove thermometer in your picture still working? What kind of temps do you see? Do you know the make/model of your parent's stove?
  4. altmartion

    altmartion Feeling the Heat

    Joined:
    Nov 8, 2013
    Messages:
    389
    Loc:
    pulaski ny
  5. OregonTRX4

    OregonTRX4 New Member

    Joined:
    Nov 12, 2013
    Messages:
    3
    Loc:
    Oregon
    Just measured the chimney length: 13 feet. I was wrong, only 3 feet above the roof line.

    I have been burning alder that is 15 months seasoned mixed with tan oak that is about 5 months. It does it even with just the alder.

    Does it at all temp ranges even when the gauge reads 800-1000*(Fire box temp)

    Hardware store had sold me metalbestos sealing tape. The stuff is smoking where it contacts the stove. Is that normal curing process? I also dont see where I could add screws. The long sections screw into each other and then a ring with screw to lock it together. The angle joints are held together by only the rings.

    Thanks for the help.

    [​IMG]
  6. altmartion

    altmartion Feeling the Heat

    Joined:
    Nov 8, 2013
    Messages:
    389
    Loc:
    pulaski ny
    you need to measure draft. inside and at breach
  7. Sprinter

    Sprinter Minister of Fire

    Joined:
    Jul 1, 2012
    Messages:
    2,055
    Loc:
    SW Washington
    13 ft is pretty marginal for flue height. If draft is inadequate, it may contribute to the glass darkening and any other burning problems, like smoke. Having said that, mine is only 13 as well and is okay, but this model stove (mine) is said to breathe better than most. Some stove models actually require 15'. With all that smoke, I suspect you need more draft. Adding a couple of feet on top would help a lot if that's the problem.

    The alder should be okay but oak takes much more time. You may want to get a moisture meter to be sure about the wood.

    What kind of stove is this?
    Last edited: Nov 12, 2013
  8. Heatsource

    Heatsource Minister of Fire

    Joined:
    Dec 19, 2011
    Messages:
    757
    Loc:
    Northern CA
    yes, but this is CHIMNEY pipe. Dont add screws!
    metal bestos class a w/locking bands all the way to the stove!
    pipe looks kosher, stove clearance I'm not so sure about.
  9. OregonTRX4

    OregonTRX4 New Member

    Joined:
    Nov 12, 2013
    Messages:
    3
    Loc:
    Oregon
    Does the metal bestos pipe need this sealant tape? First fire it was smoking but i dont know f thats just the initial curing process. I rather not use it if the locking bands are good enough.
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
  10. Heatsource

    Heatsource Minister of Fire

    Joined:
    Dec 19, 2011
    Messages:
    757
    Loc:
    Northern CA
    no tape should be needed
  11. firefighterjake

    firefighterjake Minister of Fire

    Joined:
    Jul 22, 2008
    Messages:
    15,424
    Loc:
    Unity/Bangor, Maine
    Oops . . . missed that . . . thought it was regular single wall or double wall inside the house.

Share This Page