newbie has PE super 27 questions

[Nora Donaghy]

This is my first post so bear with me. I recently purchased a 2004 PE super 27 pedestal base with gold door, ash drawer and PE blower for $350 from a friend who changed to gas. The stove was only used lightly to heat a rec room in the basement and seems to be in mint condition. I'm delighted with it there isn't a mark on it.. I took various parts of the stove to a PE dealer. He changed the glass gasket and the door gasket, he inspected the door glass, fire bricks and baffle and he sent me home with a baffle gasket which I very carefully put in myself as per his instructions. I have inspected the control lever and it's opening and closing fine, I have a stainless steel chimney, through the wall installation (much to the displeasure of my son in law) I am burning 1 year old hard maple and oak 16 inch that has been split.

I am heating an 800 sq ft block building with no insulation except there's lots in the ceiling. It's used as a boarding kennel for dogs and cats. Had a few test fires and the stove seems to draw very well, also very little chimney smoke. Now to my questions, I have noticed that the fire burns more quickly on the right side of the fire box (facing the stove) is this normal? After I light the fire and it's going good, when and how much should the air control be shut down? Can I shut it down ALL the way at night? Do I load it to the hilt and let it burn down or put a few sticks in at a time during the day. I have read extensively through the forum and keep reading about a light show and a secondary burn. I think that must be when the flames are swirling around slowly and they are different colours and it kinda makes you feel drowsy just watching it, is that what is known as a secondary burn?

I do have a magnetic thermometer on single wall stove pipe 18 inches from the stove top but I'd like to get a feel for my stove as well. Any tips or operating instructions from seasoned PE users would be much appreciated. I tried uploading some pictures but I got an error message saying they were to big, they're just normal pictures I took with my cell phone, any thoughts?

 

[shawneyboy]

I have a different unit than you but I maybe can help with some of the questions. But before we go there, welcome to the forum, I am sure you will find that this is a great group of people here, very willing to help. Ask any questions you may have, if they can be answered they will. You may get a couple barbs included but it is all in jest. Now on to the questions.....

This is my first post so bare with me. I recently purchased a 2004 PE super 27 pedestal base with gold door, ash drawer and PE blower for $350 from a friend who changed to gas. The stove was only used lightly to heat a rec room in the basement and seems to be in mint condition. I'm delighted with it there isn't a mark on it.. Sounds like you got a good deal there. WTG I took various parts of the stove to a PE dealer. He changed the glass gasket and the door gasket, he inspected the door glass, fire bricks and baffle and he sent me home with a baffle gasket which I very carefully put in myself as per his instructions. I have inspected the control lever and it's opening and closing fine, Sounds like you gave her a nice tune-up. Again WTG. Many people wouldn't go to this extent before putting her into service, buying used, I think a very smart move on your part. I have a stainless steel chimney, through the wall installation (much to the displeasure of my son in law) I am burning 1 year old hard maple and oak 16 inch that has been split. Here comes perhaps an issue, that Oak may not be ready to burn at its best, the Maple most likely is good to go, In general with Oak you want to get 2 years of split seasoning time in it ... Just an FYI. I am heating an 800 sq ft block building with no insulation you are going to lose a ton of heat and burn a ton more wood with no insulation, just another FYI except there's lots in the ceiling. It's used as a boarding kennel for dogs and cats. Had a few test fires and the stove seems to draw very well, also very little chimney smoke. Now to my questions, I have noticed that the fire burns more quickly on the right side of the fire box (facing the stove) is this normal? After I light the fire and it's going good, when and how much should the air control be shut down? Really depends on your individual situation. All stoves and set-ups have slightly different personality. You would be best to experiment. In general load her up, get the wood good and charred and start shutting her down in stages. Most people do it over 3 or 4 stages. Some less some more. For mee it is wide open on reload, 15-20 mins later down to 2/3 open, 10 or so later 1/3 open then 10 or so later down almost to completely closed down. During the coldest time of the year I do close it down all the way. Modern EPA stoves do not actually close all the way, there is a secondary air inlet that is in general unregulated that supplies the secondary air supply. Can I shut it down ALL the way at night? Yes you can, I know I do, and many people do. This is an experiment thing, you may or may not be able to. Depends on fuel, setup, out door temps, etc. Do I load it to the hilt and let it burn down or put a few sticks in at a time during the day. I think that these stoves, and it has been supported many times here, are designed to burn in cycles, load up then burn down, lather, rinse, repeat. That is not what everyone does but I would venture to say the vast majority of people burn in full cycles. I have read extensively through the forum and keep reading about a light show and a secondary burn. I think that must be when the flames are swirling around slowly and they are different colours and it kinda makes you feel drowsy just watching it, is that what is known as a secondary burn? Sounds like secondary, or a stage of secondary. The key is no smoke out of the chimney, if you are burning clean, the secondaries are going. My secondaries vary from the "lazy flame" to the "bowels of hell" it all depends on fuel, draft, outside temps, air control settings, etc. Just look at the chimney while you are learning the stove, and look at the fire. You will know. I do have a magnetic thermometer on single wall stove pipe 18 inches from the stove top but I'd like to get a feel for my stove as well. I personally prefer 2 thermos, sorta like a speedo and a tach in a car, one on the stove and one for the flue. you may want to try that, Doing this is extremely helpful in learning the stove, and lessening the learning curve. Some don't wanna spend the money on a second thermo, but to me it is a minor investment. Any tips or operating instructions from seasoned PE users would be much appreciated. Since I don't have your stove, this is where I need to step aside, I am sure others here will chime in shortly. I tried uploading some pictures but I got an error message saying they were to big, they're just normal pictures I took with my cell phone, any thoughts? Um they are to big. You need to knock them down in size via your computer. how to do it depends on the software you are using. Usually there is an option to "resize" the pic somewhere within what ever picture software you are using. Then you save the pic in the new, downsized format, and post away.

Again welcome to the forum, I am sure the PE experts will be along shortly.

Shawn

 

[shawneyboy]

Bump for OP.. Come on PE burners.

 

[begreen]

I'm a bit short on time, so hopefully someone will pick up on this. The lazy flames you are seeing says you are closing the air down correctly. You want to close it down as far as possible without snuffing out those flames. When they get very lazy and just waft over the wood, that is a good spot. During milder weather just a few splits will probably be fine. More wood and you might need to open a window or two. When it gets cold you can start running on full loads of wood. Here's a nice video to watch by some experts. Watch the bottom one: Efficient Wood Stove Operation. This is with a PE stove.

http://www.woodheat.org/wood-heat-videos.html

 

[Hogwildz]

On my Summit, I now cut it back to 1/2 way at 300, then close all the way at 400. It will have secondaries going on and still climb to 500-650 range. Sometimes even 700.
After the gases burn off, yes there is a lazy flame, and and after a while its just glowing splits, yet the temp still up in the 650 range. For my set up, this seems to be optimal burn and characteristics that go with it.

 

[hemlock]

It's a good stove. I have found that it is very unforgiving of green/wet wood (I'm sure all EPA stoves are the same this way). I close it down to just about closed. For some reason I can't let myself go all the way closed (it's all in my head I know). You'll get nice, long burns out of it, and it throws out the heat well. The blower is a great companion for it, too.

 

[PA Fire Bug]

Last year was our first with the Super 27. This year we have two - one downstairs and one on the main floor. I don't notice any difference from left to right but the front definitely burns hotter because of the air vents. We burnt mostly maple and oak that was cut, split and stacked in April & May. I had problems with black glass in the fall and cleaned out the chimney over Christmas due to wood that was not dry enough. Once the temperature dropped, we didn't have any problems getting a good burn through the day and again at night. I use a magnetic thermometer on the stove pipe and turn back the air when the temperature nears the red zone. The stove definitely burns best when the wood is stacked up to the baffle. If I was not getting a good burn, adding a flat piece of wood on top of the fire will get things cooking. At night, I turn the air back to completely shut and then open it about an inch or less depending on how hot the stove is running and how many coals are built up. The trap door for ashes and the ash pan are great for clean outs. Nice profile picture.