Newbie venting question...

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So, this is my first pellet stove, just bought an Englander PDV-25 on homedepot.com for $1000. I literally ordered it on the hottest day of the year. Consequently, I paid about 1/2 of what it seems to retail in the heating season. Anyways, the pellet stove arrived a few days ago, and while I was marveling at it's aesthetically pleasing form, I noticed up in the corner of my basement was... no way... venting pipe stuck through the wall with a gass line capped off right next to it. That part of the walk-out basement was part of an addition from the previous owners for a wrestling room, and apparently had a gas heater in there. Anyways, the vent pipe is 4" double walled pipe, and is vented straight through the wall, only about a 3 foot horizontal run, and capped at the outside, almost flush with the exterior wall. There is also a 90 degree elbow on the inside where it would have connected to the heater.
Keep in mind, I know nothing about wood stoves of any kind, chimneys, venting requirements, or drafts. The manufacturer recommends a 4-foot (I believe??) vertical run somewhere in the exhaust. How important is this to the proper function of the stove? Could I successfully buy a 3" to 4" adapter and reuse this 4" venting, or is it not recommended? Is there ANY way to reuse any of this piping to save myself some $$$, or is it not recommended to use 4" until you have 15' vertical runs, or are above so many thousand feet from sea level (which I am not- I live in Bear Valley, Wisconsin) like the manufacturer suggests? Am I looking at drafting issues and unnecessary heat loss by setting it up this way? My whole purpose is to save money on my propane bill (1300 gallons last year), so I'm looking for the best efficiency possible. Thanks in advance, and please keep in mind, I'm asking because I just DON'T KNOW.
 
Most vents are different. I am not going to comment on it. I would buy new. The 4" pipe is recommended in situations with vents over a 15" EVL or above a certain sea level. (EVL is your total length of pipe, including all connections)

The manual should explain the EVL, but a general rule of thumb is
1 ft Horizontal pipe = 1'
1 ft vertical pipe = 1/2'
45 degree elbow = 2.5 '
90 degree elbow =5'

I.E.- So if you have a Clean-out T (5') to 5' of Vertical (2.5') to a 90* (5') to 3 ft Horizontal (4'), then the EVL would be 16.5'. So you would have to use 4", even though you only went up 5 ft and across 3 ft (looks like 8 ft of pipe), the flow is restricted, so it feels like 16.5' to the combustion blower on the stoves.

Someone else should chime in, some flues are interchangable. But I do not know about Gas/Pellet/Etc.... Good luck. Dont forget to buy a surge protector. You spent a lot of money on your investment. Dont skimp out now. It will last you many years.
 
Gas line near that vent would lead me to guess it's a B-vent, can only be used with gas products, NOT PELLET
 
humpin iron said:
Gas line near that vent would lead me to guess it's a B-vent, can only be used with gas products, NOT PELLET

+1, on the "plus side" you already have a hole to mount your wall thimble in.
 
Remove the old vent and install new pellet vent. Also, follow Englander install guidelines and make sure to have 3-4' min. of vertical in the exhaust.

As far as getting an adapter and going from 3" ----> 4", give Englander tech line a call and ask them if it's ok on a shorter run.....methinks it will be OK.

If you want to order new pipe, there are a couple of VERY good companies to order from:

www.kinsmanstoves.com The owner, Eric, is a member here and will give forum member discounts.....great guy to work with....located in Ohio but will ship parts. If you call, use the Brookfield store number.

www.dynamitebuys.com Also a great company to do business with, and very good prices also....I think located in Ohio too.

And don't forget about your OAK install.....needed on all Englander stoves to maintain warranty.
 
Wow, 3 replies in less than a day in the offseason!? Thanks fellas, it's greatly appreciated! Taking your advice, I will buy a vent kit, and do it the right way. I want the most efficient heat I can get, and I did some further research, and I get the importance of proper vertical run to get the adequate draft. (I still don't understand what exactly draft is, but nonetheless...) So, with that being said, would it be beneficial at all to run MORE than a 4' vertical section, say 6' or 8'? Would that created a better "draft" to get more heat in the house? Thanks for all the links and advice! I will not reuse any of the venting that is here to err on the side of caution. Thanks again! Really looking forward to heating with my new Englander in a few months!

P.S. Next mystery to solve before the heating season starts is WHERE to put the stove to get the best heat to the house and all the rooms. Will do some research on here, if I can't find anything that jumps out, I'll start another thread.

P.P.S- Imacman, what is the OAK install you referred to? I don't know what that is??????
 
OAK refers to an Outside Air Kit. Englanders must have an Outside air kit for combustion, for 2 reasons A.) They Require it and B.) It will help with the overall efficiency of your stove. You will be using Outside air, instead of the air in your home for combustion. If you didn't use it. The air that the stove exhausts, would be replenished through all the leaks and drafts in your home. Englander stoves come with the OAK kit.

As far as draft goes. The more Vertical pipe you have. The better the draft. As long as you follow Englanders recommendations and stay within the EVL (see my chart from earlier post) you will be fine. Draft in a pellet stove is a positive pressure system. The combustion blower does a good job of exhausting the flue gases. But just like a chimney to a fireplace. The heat that is rising in your flue creates a draw (hot air rises). So the vertical pipe helps pull (draft) the air out, that the combustion blower is pushing. (Example- If your truck was stuck? Would it be easier to get it out if you had 1 truck pushing it? Or 1 truck pushing and another pulling?) Bad analogy. I know. But that's one way of thinking about it so yes 6-8' is "better" than the 4'. BUT. The 4' from Englander requirements will get you along just fine.

Also. Put the heat whEre you will need it most. Heating from the basement can be done. But remember, you will not get the Nuclear heat off of a pellet stove. Like you would from a woodstove. If you spend your time upstairs. Then it should go upstairs.
Your gonna love this pellet thing (addiction)m good cheap heat and sense of Pride from heating your home without the dependency of the Gas/Oil/Propane man. I thought we would reduce our Propane usage by about half with the purchase of the Quadrfire 3 seasons ago. It was more than half. It was 100%. No Propane for heating (just cooking). $3,600 a year for LP. Now its about $600-$800 a year with pellets.

Good luck. Hope that helps a little bit. Sorry so long winded. I like to type. LOL
 
DexterDay said:
Put the heat whEre you will need it most.....

Agree 100%. Heating from the basement can be done, but it's difficult at best. Put the stove where you need the heat the most, and hopefully it will help the other areas too.
 
Ah yes, the OAK (outside air kit) did come with the stove, thank you for clarifying what that was! That makes sense that you want the house to be positively pressured. I have a new post questioning the best place to put the stove, while trying to incorporate the circulation blower on the propane furnace to heat the bedrooms. Here's the link: https://www.hearth.com/econtent/index.php/forums/viewthread/77088/

Thanks everyone!
 
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