Newbie with Draft problems

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ShaneW.

New Member
Nov 27, 2011
7
Central Oklahoma
I have a Schrader wood stove. Plain square box with a flat top. Flue goes straight out the back of the stove with 8", into a reducer to join it with a triple wall flue pipe with an inside measurement of 5", through the house wall to a "T", then up the side of the house 3' above the roof. Regardless of temp outside, wind speed, wood type, fire size, or any other variable factor when you open the doors smoke will come out. The best way to add wood or remove ashes, is to open only one door and still smoke will escape.

Now I have lived in this mobile home since I was a boy and we had a Wonderwood and then an Ashley in here and they also had the same issue but not quite as bad. Now I am aware of all the potential risk involved with having a wood stove in a mobile home. I am trying to figure out how to eliminate the smoke. Help please.
 
Welcome Shane. The stove is getting too restricted at the flue outlet. And then again at the thimble. If the chimney is short, that's 3 strikes. Sorry to say but by the description, this setup has illegal written all over it. Pre-EPA stoves are not supposed to be used in mobiles. The other danger here is the thru-the-wall thimble. These are often done incorrectly and unsafely.

You are right to come here with concerns. This installation could be hazardous to your health. If you can post some pictures of the inside and outside flue we may be able to make some suggestions. But really the stove should be replaced with an EPA stove that will have a 6" flue collar and can be installed to mobile standards.
 
Here is a view of the flue coming out of the back of the stove. I will get pics of the outside portion of the flue pipe tomorrow. What size flue pipe would this stove need to draw properly?

There is a factory installed box for the flue pipe to pass through so that the walls are protected from the heat. The triple wall pipe stays cool to the touch even with a blazing fire going. The triple wall is what passes through the wall. A heat shield is behind the stove to keep the heat away from the wall. There is a mobile home approved heat shield on the floor plus 6" air space underneath the stove to protect the floor. The heat shield on the floor never even gets warm to the touch. The wall near the stove never gets warm to the touch either, the heat shields do their job. Growing up it's a miracle we didn't all die in our sleep, as my father never put any heat shields up and he would get that Ashley stove (that was indeed mobile home approved as stamped on the stove) so hot the wall behind the stove would burn your hand just to touch.

I am aware of the danger of a stove in mobile, I am aware of the danger of a non-approved stove to boot. It is my only way to heat my house currently so I do what I can to ensure it is operated as safely as humanly possible.

Thanks for the help...and for not lambasting me for my set up.
 

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The stove wants an 8" flue system. When you start and when you reload do you open the damper in the flue collar all the way? Also, when you look from the side, is the horizontal run pitched uphill toward the chimney?
 
Anytime the doors are opened for any reason the damper is always open all the way. The horizontal run is level. No uphill or downhill. Okay I will check into 8" flue pipe.
 
If the 6" exterior pipe is tall enough, it might be less expensive to replace the stove or maybe to add on to the chimney. Chimney pipe and fittings are expensive. Let's look at the outside piping setup to see if it can be improved. Also, I'm wondering if the stove could be safely lowered about a 1/2" inch to add some pitch to the pipe. Is the stove on blocks or just standing on it's own legs?
 
The stove is sitting on a stand that could be cut down 1/2" depending on if the welder is that good or possibly a new stand built that is 1/2" shorter. The stove pipe doesn't have much play in it though. When the sun comes up and I get off work I will get pics of the chimney. Would adding on the the 6" chimney make up for the fact the stove wants 8" possibly? I am confused as to how adding to the chimney could help.

Thanks for the help.
 
I think right out of the box it would be cheaper to replace the stove than the chimney.

A longer (higher) chimney creates more draft.
 
ShaneW. said:
The stove is sitting on a stand that could be cut down 1/2" depending on if the welder is that good or possibly a new stand built that is 1/2" shorter. The stove pipe doesn't have much play in it though. When the sun comes up and I get off work I will get pics of the chimney. Would adding on the the 6" chimney make up for the fact the stove wants 8" possibly? I am confused as to how adding to the chimney could help.

Thanks for the help.

That's just a guess at this point Shane. Mobiles typically have short flues due to their low height. I am not in favor of cutting down the stand on the stove. Let's look at the big picture with all details and then see what will work best for you.
 
Ok, that is half the problem. It's a short flue, even if this was a 6" outlet stove. I'm guessing 11ft. This short flue plus the size reduction is what is killing the draft. Adding 4 ft of the same brand pipe to the flue will help, but it will need a brace, triangulated to the roof to keep it safe. That's probably your cheapest option. Not ideal, but it should improve things noticeably. Just don't skip the bracing. You folks get strong winds and some good sized snowfalls. Attach the brace on the pipe at about 5ft above the drip edge on the roof.
 
Thanks...ideally I would love to upgrade this stove to a smaller more efficient stove. That is the plan, just as soon as money allows. But an additional 4' section is do-able now. Thanks for the help. I'll let you know how things are after the section is added.
 
I hear you. Hope that helps and gets you a few less snootfuls of smoke. Stay safe and warm. And don't hesitate to ask questions if you need more help.
 
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