No Power dump orentation.

[kopeck]

I know a lot of folks put their no power dump zone horizontal on the ceiling (above the boiler) but would there be any reason why it couldn't go vertical as long as the input is still up top and the outlet is on the bottom?

Pretty much like a radiator. I know this configuration works well on old thermosiphon cooling systems on tractors.

K

 

[Fred61]

I assume you are going to use finned tubing from baseboard. How are you going to change the orientation of the fins for convection?

 

[kopeck]

Yes, I would be using fin tube.

I can't imagine the orientation of the fins them selves would have that great effect would they?

K

 

[Morgan]

Finned pipe should run horizontal not vertical

 

[Fred61]

Yes, I would be using fin tube.

I can't imagine the orientation of the fins them selves would have that great effect would they?

K

IMHO it would make a huge difference. The old tractor had a fan drawing air through the radiator.

 

[maple1]

Where is your boiler with respect to your heating zones?

The simplest no power dumping is to plumb in a 'partial' additional normally open zone that ties into your existing heating zones. Ideally a second floor zone for maximum thermo siphoning effect. Example: a new T off where your current zones manifold off, put a normally open zone valve in, then run from there to another new T in your largest highest zone just after the existing (normally closed) zone valve for that one. When the power goes out, the NO valve opens and all the rest close - instant thermo siphoning without running any additional radiation. Only things needed would be two T's, a zone valve, and a couple feet of pipe. And I guess some wire to run from your 24v transformer to the new zone valve. If you want more dumping, repeat to the next largest highest zone.

 

[kopeck]

Where is your boiler with respect to your heating zones?

The simplest no power dumping is to plumb in a 'partial' additional normally open zone that ties into your existing heating zones. Ideally a second floor zone for maximum thermo siphoning effect. Example: a new T off where your current zones manifold off, put a normally open zone valve in, then run from there to another new T in your largest highest zone just after the existing (normally closed) zone valve for that one. When the power goes out, the NO valve opens and all the rest close - instant thermo siphoning without running any additional radiation. Only things needed would be two T's, a zone valve, and a couple feet of pipe. And I guess some wire to run from your 24v transformer to the new zone valve. If you want more dumping, repeat to the next largest highest zone.

Yeah, that was my first plan but due to the layout of my basement I think it's going to be a wash cost wise to add a dedicated dump verses running back to tie into one of my existing zones. As far as ease of installation, I think a dedicated zone is going to be easier.

I went down a looked again tonight and I don't think it's going to be as hard to hang the dump zone from the ceiling as I thought it was. This is an old house with beams of all different sizes supporting the first floor. I'll make it work one way or another.

K

 

[maple1]

Everyone's layout is different, guess that's why we have so many different setups on here. Mine heats great when the power is out - they didn't plumb in adequate NO valves when it was installed, so I have to open a couple of my zone valves manually, but it almost heats the upstairs better with no power than with - steady even flow of hot water gets going up there. Course you have to keep an eye on your fire, especially at first until things get going good.

Sure you can't run a quick T or two around your existing zone valves? Then again another thing I learned on here is that everyone doesn't have zone valves...

 

[kopeck]

I do have valves.

Here's the thing, to get back to my manifold to T into the bigger zone I'm probably going to have to run about 55 to 60 feet of copper (or PEX would work too but I don't have any 3/4 PEX on hand), pretty much 25 plus feet there and then 25 plus feet back again. I'm would also have to drain the zone and probably the oil boiler (again) and while I'm getting pretty good at it I would rather not.

I call the local supply house and 3/4 fin tube in 6 foot sections is 24 bucks, I need 3 sections to get to the 18 feet required for my boiler. Just seems like it would be easier to do it that way.

K

 

[maple1]

Yes, draining & filling things is not fun - also from experience. My lesson learned from that is you can never have too many ball valves in your system.

 

[Duetech]

Running vertical does not allow your dump to work at its most efficient capacity. Hot air rises and the lower fins would be heating or preventing the upper fins from disipating much heat.

 

[maple1]

I'd also consider putting the dump array (yes, finned tubing needs to run horizontally to perform right) as high as you could - maybe even somewhere on the next floor up rather than just hanging from the ceiling of the basement not far from furnace. That is, of course, if conditions permit. The farther up the dump water has to go before it hits the radiation, the better the thermosiphoning effect will be - and also the heat will presumably end up in a lving area. Just a suggestion, might not work for your layout. Or, if there is a place to cut in a floor vent above where you hang it, that would help with heat flow too I think - but floor vents is another touchy subject.