Noob splitting question

[kukuna]

No, I'm not splitting noobs, I am one.

I just signed up today after gleaning tons of info on red oak. I had 4 medium sized trees taken down, some are in rounds (see avatar), some are 4-5 foot lengths of smaller diameter.

Now that I have learned from here that it will take 2 years minimum of drying time, I'm raring to split. My question is: what are the pros and cons of splitting these into either "wedges" or "slabs"? My splitter is a pokey little Didier 20, but she's just right for an old lady like me. My wood stove is a Jotul 602, so I split kinda small anyway, 16" max.

 

[bluedogz]

If I'm understanding right....

I split into "slabs" first, breaking the round down into relatively flat pieces. Then, I split each slab into individual sticks.

Is that what you meant?

 

[Tom Wallace]

I'm not sure what you mean by slabs vs wedges. When I split, most of the pieces end up wedge shaped. Though the ones in the center of the round tend to be rectangular rather than triangular. Either way, it burns the same, though. Smaller splits will dry faster, but also burn faster I believe.

 

[kukuna]

Bluedogz, I should have said "rectangles" vs "triangles" (thanks, Tom Wallace!) when describing how I'm splitting rounds. I was just wondering if there was a increase in drying effectiveness depending how the wood is split. My "rectangles" have more surface area exposed to the air, and have less bark as well.

 

[bobdog2o02]

The shape doesn't matter much, but it will dry faster ( and burn faster) the smaller it is split. Don't forget to stack single width in a good sunny spot with lots of airflow for fastest drying.

 

[gzecc]

Rectangles are best for cross stacking. Takes up more room but dries faster because of the increased exposed surface area. Rectangles are bad for conventional stacking. Too many flat surfaces meeting flat surfaces for moisture to reside.

 

[Applesister]

Oak lends itself to cutting slabs/rectangles. I have gotten in the habit of splitting it that way. I think the rectangles slide a little too easy when stacking and its harder to control airspace in the stacks. Like Gzecc said, you have flat surfaces against flat surfaces. I think advise would be to do whats easiest for you. If you go at it with a certain speed you will fall into some natural type of rhythm. Best advise to you is to get those rounds out of that wet leafy vegetation and out in the bright sun. Use the sun and heat of August to your best advantage.

 

[Jim in CT]

<--- mine look like that

 

[BobUrban]

You are probably splitting hairs here - pun intended. The real key is getting it split and stacked off the ground. To increase the efficiency of the drying process there are some advantages to smaller splits(no matter the shape), looser stacks(more air flow), single vs. multi row, wind, sun, heat, etc... The farther ahead you get the bigger you can leave your splits and the start to just pack it in tight rows but, again, for efficiency there is some argument for single rows.

 

[bassJAM]

Like BobUrban said, the shape you split in isn’t as important as size. I’m processing ash and silver maple now for 3 years out and I like to keep the splits pretty large, in the 6”-8” range, for longer burn times. They end up in whatever shape happens.

 

[Fred Wright]

We've worked up a lot of red oak these past few years. The slabs or rectangles are perfect for cross-stacking at the ends of the wood pile. They stack nice and neat and aren't prone to falling over.

I like splitting red oak, it breaks smoothly just about anywhere in the round and can be split to pretty much any size and shape you prefer.

 

[Shawn Curry]

I personally like 1/2 circles and wedges, especially for those size rounds, just because I'll end up with more consistent sizes - which as others have stated, is really the question you need to be asking. If you need it ready fast, split small. Larger splits will probably never get as dry as smaller ones, but they'll burn all night.

In regards to cross stacking, I think wedges and half circles work just fine. The thing I'm looking for when selecting the pieces to use in my cross stacks, is consistent length, and straight grain - no knots. Then when I make the column, consistent "heights" for each piece in the layer, to keep it level.

 

[kukuna]

Thanks, everyone, for the great information. I have spent the last week splitting the 16" rounds with my trusty Didier - great workout for the back lifting those suckers up. This morning I made the mistake of trying to split a 1/4 round that had a small knot- the Didier couldn't manage it and stalled out. Now I'm "stuck" (ha ha) with the piece almost completely imbedded in the wedge. I tried a sledgehammer to knock it backwards, chopping at the area where the wedge meets the wood, trying to pry it off with a crowbar, all to no avail.

Any suggestions? Sawzall? Prayer?

 

[Shawn Curry]

I split by hand, but have to switch to wedge and sledge for the occasional knotty piece. Sometimes the wedge gets hopelessly stuck. When this happens, I usually try to flip the piece, and hit it with the axe from the other side, about where the split is opening up. If that doesn't work, I'll switch to the chainsaw and make a "kerf" in the end (being careful not to hit the wedge).

If you don't have a chainsaw, a sawzall might work instead. When you get it off, try coating the wedge with some some cooking spray.

 

[Shawn Curry]

Also, which direction did you try prying with the crowbar? You might want to try levering up on the opposite end from where the wedge is stuck. You might get enough leverage to sort of "rock" it off of the wedge.

 

[TimJ]

Don't focus on what and how to split them 4 medium size red oaks. Focus on where you will get the next four

 

[kukuna]

Don't focus on what and how to split them 4 medium size red oaks. Focus on where you will get the next four

Right in the backyard, TimJ!

 

[kukuna]

I split by hand, but have to switch to wedge and sledge for the occasional knotty piece. Sometimes the wedge gets hopelessly stuck. When this happens, I usually try to flip the piece, and hit it with the axe from the other side, about where the split is opening up. If that doesn't work, I'll switch to the chainsaw and make a "kerf" in the end (being careful not to hit the wedge).

If you don't have a chainsaw, a sawzall might work instead. When you get it off, try coating the wedge with some some cooking spray.

Thanks, Shawn Curry. I do have a chainsaw; didn't even think of that.

When I get that piece off, in addition to the cooking spray I'll remember to never try to split knotty just-felled red oak.....live and learn.

 

[bassJAM]

If your chainsaw has a long enough bar, you might try noodling the knotty pieces.

 

[Fred Wright]

When you get a stubborn round or block stuck on the splitter wedge, extend the ram to the block. Wrap a length of chain around the block and the ram pusher. Use the return stroke to pull it free.

Works every time.

 

[kukuna]

When you get a stubborn round or block stuck on the splitter wedge, extend the ram to the block. Wrap a length of chain around the block and the ram pusher. Use the return stroke to pull it free.

Works every time.

What a great idea. What size/type chain?

I ended up using the Sawzall to cut away the wood on one side, then sledged it off in the opposite direction. All in all, 2 hours of frustration. Your idea must take all of 2 minutes. Thanks.