Not your standard situation looking for reccomendations

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Check Canadian Tire for the Englander 30. Should hit your price range and has a two level top for cooking. Hotter on the upper step and lower temp on the lower step.

ETA: I just checked their site and they sell it under the Timber Ridge label and it is $1,099.
 
You do not want that non-cat Dutchwest! The combustion design is terribly flawed. It not uncommon to need a rebuild of the combustion system after only a few years of use. Coming in at about $500 for the parts, I wouldn't pay $500 for the entire stove! So far, every time I've went to clean one, a new combustion package and/or rear refractory was needed. Not to mention the cracked inner tops. And it would be very tough to cook on in that small cabin, considering it has a convection top. It would have to run really hard to be hot enough on top. Since its a rear combustion stove, the back is the hottest part of the stove.
 
Just to be clear...We are not trying to avoid anything, safety is our main concern also. like i said we all have wives and kids that we want to go back home after a week of hunting and see. As far as the insulated pipe goes it is a proper "tagged" pipe im pretty sure/ almost positive. As far as a "WETT" inspection goes, we are prepared to do that also if they ask for it, even went as far as contacting inspectors and found a fellow that seems interested in helping out in our situation. Again my main question is concerning a dual purpose stove that will heat ok but almost more importantly provide us the ability to cook with. The camp is small and the outdoor temps are really not that cold in comparison to mid winter. they are generally lows of -2Celcius with highs of 7Celcius. The budget is $1000 and are willing to buy used if that is the only feasable option. Wasnt sure if the stove was better suited as cat, non-cat, pre epa or whatever helps the cooking end of things out. We use this camp for only 3 weeks of the colder months. As far as kerosene propane ... its remoteness and challange to get to with a boat/atv/boat/atv trip makes bringing in extra"fuel" seem unlogical since its in the middle of the WOODS. I really do appreciate all the feedback I am getting but don't want to turn this into a "darn insurance" complaint. We have chosen to take this unfortunate situation "head on" vs avoiding or fighting "the company" Again I feel that $1000 should be able to "solve" this situation, but feel free to tell me I'm wrong if it seems appropiate. As far as hearth, we do not have anything significant as of now except a large spark protection area, but will do whatever is necessary if necessary. Lets not reinvent the wheel or something. So...Thanks and keep it coming.. I have came across a reconditioned "fisher" airtight that is 20"x27" double glass door that takes a 17" log on a pedestal for $900 asking price on their website.

Looking at your requirements I would focus my search on stoves fulfilling the following criteria:

- non-cat stove: mostly due to budget
- EPA-approved stove: For longer burn times and less wood consumption
- simple steel stove: For a hotter stovetop and less expensive
- hearth with ember protection only: For not having to build an extensive hearth for a stove that is used a few weeks a year (would exclude the current Englander stoves)
- Firebox of ~2 cu ft or more: That way you will have coals left in the morning for an easy reload and heat for most of the night; stove could be smaller when you don't mind a cold start in the morning or feeding the stove during the night

Several possibilities for new stoves were mentioned already: PE True North, several Drolet stoves (like the Blackcomb), US Stove, Century stoves, Pleasant Hearth (Lowe's)
I think all of those would get the job done. Check for clearance requirements to see which one would fit into your current space.
 
Also check that there is enough surface area on which to cook. Some of those stoves are shallow E/W loaders with narrow tops.
 
I guess I confuse easily. A 750sq ft hunt camp that has no hydro, no road access and is worth $85K ;ex;ex;ex

Something is very wrong here. I can buy a 3 bedroom house with a garage in Wallaceburg for that kind of money. I posted some leads for you but you seem to be interested in other things. Sorry, I've got better things to do.
 
I would expect with 99% certainty that you will need a WETT inspection (expect something like $3-400 for that).

As others have said, Englander NC30 might hit the $1000 budget. You might also look for a Napoleon 1450 which is a good stove in a very basic black wrapper. Either will have lots of top surface for cooking. Get a good dutch oven and you're laughing. You're in the right time of the year, most places should be trying to sell off this year's stock to get in next years. Maybe look for floor models etc. Used can be OK, just do a really thorough inspection for any signs of over firing or cracking etc.
 
Everyone thanks for your replies......some stoves mentioned are going to go get checked out for sure. If I may ask one last question regarding pre EPA stoves. What are your thoughts on these types(like the fisher I mentioned) ?. Are they suitable for us since the amount of wood used is not an issue for us? Would it be too hard to control the amount of heat coming out a stove of this pre-EPA type affecting the cooking capabilities/control? Essentially where is the money better spent for our application.....say a Tn19 or a reconditioned fisher for basically the same amount of money? Or does it come down to the amount of cooking surface for us. Also please direct me in your opinion which type of stove is going to run the best to maintain a comfortable room temp in this smallish cabin...pre EPA ..cat...non-cat. Is it a genuine concern for me that... say if we ended up going with A tn19 that since they are so efficient as compared to a fisher or the likes that it would be harder to keep room temps down. Or if we need to keep a non cat stove "choked " off all the time to keep temp comfortable in the room that we are raising a concern of creosote buildup, because these types of stove like to run at higher temps? Again I am a newbie in regards to the stove evolution.


Dear Doug, sounds as if you either need a spanking, or would like further explanation on our situation/value of camp. The 85k insurance policy is including site clean up and rebuild. Due to the difficult location it raises both these costs considerably. The 750sqft camp is for surely not in itself worth 85k. The insurance is valued to us for this reason also..regulations will not allow us to dig a hole and bury it. All remnants would need to be hauled away and disposed of properly. The rebuilding would more than likely be carried out by our group. FYI I am a self employed lic. Carpenter for the past 19 years. No need to get pouty and threatening my FRIEND.
 
I think that a fisher or a decent sized non-cat EPA stove will likely over heat you at times. But you'll figure it out, open a window/use less wood. A cat stove will be more steady as far as heat output goes, but older cat stoves often have issues with the cats failing prematurely. New cat stoves will be out of the $1,000 budget. I don't think a Fisher would be a bad idea at all. It's a very simple stove, since you are so remote it might be the best fit.
 
There are a lot of people heating smaller spaces with a medium sized stove. A cat, reasonably sized non-cat, or pre-epa stove will all do the job. How it heats the space is up to the person running the stove. You have control over the wood species, size of the wood load, the amount of air supplied to the fire and the frequency of reload. The paradox here is your budget. That effectively cuts out cat stoves unless you can find a properly sized one used in good working condition. A pre-epa stove like a Baby Bear Fisher could work, so could a Jotul F118 or a Lange 6302. You will use more wood and may need to open a window in milder weather, but they would work. Personally though I would prefer a clean burning new stove. A 2 cu ft stove with an adequately flat top for cooking will be just as controllable with the parameters you control. However, it will need a 15 ft chimney and will run best with dry wood.
 
So is there a large difference in pleasant hearth 1800 and drolet classic? Found the pleasant hearth on clearance for $450 and the classic is reg. price of $899.
 
Question is, will the insurance co accept a pre-eps stove



EPA cert isnt generally necessary for insurance purposes , the UL listing is what they will be concerned with , the unit would have to be Listed to UL 1482, or in Canada the ULC S627-00. in some (rare) cases an "unlisted" stove could be covered as long as it is mounted according to the NFPA211 standard for unlisted appliances

EPA qualifications are for emmissions , the UL is the "safety standard" which is the concern of the insurance companies.
 
Heres an update and was wondering what a few of you burners thought? Very close to dropping the axe on a 6month old regency f2400 with blower for $900. the fella had bought the stove to update his previous one in order to help sell his house....the new owners do not want the wood burner and want a gas stove instead. Comes with a few sections of black pipe. What do you think of this stove and price? Thanks MM
 
It's a good, well made stove. We see a lot of them out here. If the stove has not been abused the price sounds good.
 
Good stove. Goes for around $2,000 new so the price is more than right.
 
Heres an update and was wondering what a few of you burners thought? Very close to dropping the axe on a 6month old regency f2400 with blower for $900. the fella had bought the stove to update his previous one in order to help sell his house....the new owners do not want the wood burner and want a gas stove instead. Comes with a few sections of black pipe. What do you think of this stove and price? Thanks MM

If you have not seen it yet there are some comments in the review section here: https://www.hearth.com/talk/ratings.php
You can also try a search in the forum for some more comments and experiences. IMHO, half the price for an almost new stove is a very good price if it has been treated ok.
 
Sounds like a pretty good deal, especially with some stove pipe sections, especially if they are 6 months old as well.

Just check carefully for abuse/cracks etc. Should do a great job in the hunt camp.
 
the only problem I see is that the I believe 2400 is not an ember protection only stove so you will need an insulated stove board of to build a hearth. otherwise it is a great deal and should work
 
the only problem I see is that the I believe 2400 is not an ember protection only stove so you will need an insulated stove board of to build a hearth. otherwise it is a great deal and should work

Ember protection is enough according to the manual:
"floor protection: A combustible floor must be protected by non-combustible material (like tile, concrete board, or certified to UL-1618 or as defined by local codes)..."

The leg version needs a bottom heat shield; maybe that's what you remember. Since the stove had been installed already, I hope that has been done if it is not the pedestal variant anyway.
 
ok then I stand corrected good to go then we haven't put one in in quite a while so I wasn't sure thanks for clearing it up.
 
Bought the f2400 with fan it was not abused in any sort of way that i could tell, it was just right size for what we are needing. Im glad we could do it for the budget in mind. Thanks for all your info and help. Now the work will begin to get it up to the camp. Is the industry standard 48" clearance for the door side of the stove? One fella wants to see the fire from the bunks, the 48" would be nip and tuck.
 
the book will tell you all of the required clearances
 
The front of the stove will be the most radiant. 36" is a common front clearance, but I would want 48".
 
Bought the f2400 with fan it was not abused in any sort of way that i could tell, it was just right size for what we are needing. Im glad we could do it for the budget in mind. Thanks for all your info and help. Now the work will begin to get it up to the camp. Is the industry standard 48" clearance for the door side of the stove? One fella wants to see the fire from the bunks, the 48" would be nip and tuck.

In case this bit of advice wasn't emphatic enough- GET THE CLEARANCES FROM THE MANUAL. If you're a carpenter it'll be easy to read and execute. There aren't any "rules of thumb" when it comes to fire in your house.
 
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