I know the manual says its a must and so does tech support, curious to know if anyone here doesn't have it hooked up or did and diconected it with better results?
O.A.K / Englander
- Thread starter HEMI
- Start date
-
Active since 1995, Hearth.com is THE place on the internet for free information and advice about wood stoves, pellet stoves and other energy saving equipment.
We strive to provide opinions, articles, discussions and history related to Hearth Products and in a more general sense, energy issues.
We promote the EFFICIENT, RESPONSIBLE, CLEAN and SAFE use of all fuels, whether renewable or fossil.
- Status
HEMI_1500 said:
Have mine connected. They must have a reason for wanting it. Why bother if it's really not important?
well, because this thing just isn't right and i'm searchin for whatever comes to mind, wether it sounds rediculous or not i won't know until i ask......i went to a local harman dealer today thats how fed up i am....its gettin closemacman said:
mine seems to run the same with or without it. I actually got the kit free w/ the stove so I figured I would use it. I have mine running into the basement. The way it was explained to me is that if you dont use it you are reheating the same air and making the stove less efficient. I dont really know if this is correct or not. When I was getting the stove setup I did run it with the o.i.k disconnected. Hooking it up really didnt seem to affect the performance of the stove at all.
To me I think they are addressing two issues: stove performance and negative pressure issues. Using the OAK may improve stove performance somewhat, but more importantly they may be practicing defensive measures. Negative pressure can be a big problem depending on the structure, so by recommending the OAK they can stay away from that brier patch.
CAMAROPEP said:
IMO, running the OAK into the basement isn't much better than running without it at all. The negative pressure you're making in the basement will still tend to pull warm out of the living (heated) space to replace it, unless it's a VERY drafty/not sealed basement.
The idea of the OAK is to use outside air.....that way it won't be affecting the pressure inside the house, or use any pre-heated air either.
sydney1963
New Member
Use the OAK, it's a plus! If not you will be drawing air from your living space and from the cracks around windows and doors (cold air by the way) into your living space and to the stove. It will create drafts and make the stove less efficient (cold feet). Cold air coming into your stove directly (OAK) has more of the necessary components (oxygen?) to make it burn more effectively.
I'm no pellet combustion expert, but ironically the pellet combustion process may work better with warmer air like other combustion processes. However, the negative pressure issue more than trumps this issue. Many folks already have many device in their homes that can cause negative pressure such as vent fans, clothes dryers, ng/propane/oil hot water tanks and furnaces. It is self defeating to run a device that creates so much negative pressure it begins drawing in outdoor air around windows, doors and cracks. A pellet stove that often leaves parts of your house drafty creating negative pressure will only make those remote cold areas of your home even colder and drafter.
Creating negative pressure in your house is a bigger issue than generally understood, particularly as your homes become tighter.
Creating negative pressure in your house is a bigger issue than generally understood, particularly as your homes become tighter.
sydney1963
New Member
dac122 said:
Dac, I agree with everything you said about the oak and creating negative pressure (vacuum) in the house.
However, I have to disagree about the warm air. When it comes to combustion, cold, dense air holds much more oxygen. More O2 = better burning and more heat. Just ask anybody that's involved in racing.....they will take cold, dense air any day. I know a little about it...been in the racing game for almost 40 yrs.
(Just won the championship with this car and team): Click on this pic for bigger/sharper image
Attachments
macman said:
macman I concede your greater knowledge. You are correct, cold air can hold slightly more O2.
I would however submit that both warm and cold air can help your stove reach most efficient operation. Warm air initially to help the stove quickly reach ideal operating temperature, and cold air thereafter with its greater O2 content. Since that's theoretical musing, not practical for most installs, cold air via OAK is the way to go.
I will now bow from this sub-thread, since as mentioned, I like daydreaming but can't even pretend to be an expert in this area
- Status
Similar threads
