Oak into attic?

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karl0525

New Member
Oct 16, 2010
44
North Texas
Can I run a 2 inch oak up into the attic? I have a bossca spirit 500 that I will be putting in a corner of a interior wall. It used to be a corner wood burning fireplace built into the house.The house is on cement slab so no crawlspace. Can I run a 2 inch flex In the wall up to the attic and put a rodent cover on and call it good. The house is vented with about 20 soffet vents around the eve of the house. Is this a good option?
 
Sorry, but not a good idea. Outside air needs to come from the outside for many of the same reasons that outside air pipes need to be constructed of Metal. In that rare event that your outside air could exhaust instead of draw in, venting into your attic, garage etc. presents a fire risk.
Additionally, running a two in. pipe for that legnth is not a good idea either. Runs in excess of 5-6 feet should be increased to 3 in. pipe for good drafting.
Good luck.
 
I was planning on doing a 3 or 4 inch line into the wall and going up to close the the bottom of the rafters so I could do a yearly inspection on the opening to make sure all was good and clear and yes i will have a mesh material on the opening other than the chance of embers going up the 8 or 9 ft of metal flex which I doubt that would ever happen I see no reason from a safety stand point it can't be done any other things I should consider feel free to elaborate thanks
 
Sorry, but that doesn't follow the manual. Look to your manual. Call your local fire dept. and consult with them. Most inspectors will default to the manual.
From Napoleaon
3.4 Outside air
Available from your Authorized Dealer (114KT)
Outside air must not be drawn from an enclosed space (garage, unventilated crawl space).
NOTE: Wolf Steel Ltd. strongly suggests using outside air for all residential installations, especially for
those that are energy efficient, air-tight homes.
Outside air supply must not be over 15' long.
Outside air vents must be made with 1 3/4" diameter or larger metal or aluminum duct with a metal screen
attached to the end to keep out rodents (P.V.C. or other materials may not be used).
The outside air inlet must not be above or within 12" of the chimney termination, must have a rain cap or
down-turned elbow to prevent the water from entering and be located so that it will not become plugged by
snow or other material.
Outside air is mandatory for a combustible built-in enclosure install.
From Englander
Outside Air (Outside Combustion Air Intake)
Outside air is mandatory for this unit to operate properly. This unit has been designed and tested
with this connection, because so many homes are airtight and there is not adequate combustion air
available inside the dwelling. The air intake pipe is located on the bottom side of the burn pot (from
the rear) and measures 1 ½†inside diameter (I.D.). The connection can be made with a metal 1 7/8 â€
I.D. coupler and pipe (see “Important Information†section of manual), and should exit through the
wall. Be sure to secure the pipe to the unit with a clamp or aluminum tape. The outside end of the
pipe should be covered (screened) to prevent foreign matter from entering the system. Our Outside
Air Kit (Part Number PU-OAK) can be used. If the unit is located below ground level, you will need to
run the pipe up and then outside the dwelling. NOTE: If the total run of the connection exceeds 6’, if
more than 2 elbows are used, or if a basement installation, use 3†metal pipe (and coupler) instead.
Note: If an older unit, measure the opening to determine what size pipe to use or couple to.
From Harman:Outside Air:
Harman Home Heating and Hearth & Home
Technologies recommend attaching outside air
in all installations, especially lower level and
main floor locations.
Per national building codes, consideration must be
given to combustion air supply to all combustion appliances.
Failure to supply adequate combustion air
for all appliance demands, may lead to back-drafting
of those and other appliances.
When the appliance is side-wall vented: The air
intake is best located on the same exterior wall as
the exhaust vent outlet and located lower on the wall
than the exhaust vent outlet.
When the appliance is roof vented: The air intake
is best located on the exterior wall oriented towards
the prevailing wind direction during the heating
season.
The outside air connection will supply the demands
of the pellet appliance, but consideration must be
given to the total house demand. House demand
may consume some air needed for the stove, especially
during a power failure. It may be necessary
to add additional ventilation to the space in which
the pellet appliance is located. Consult with your local
HVAC professional to determine the ventilation
demands for your house.
Vent Configurations:
To reduce probability of reverse drafting
during shut-down conditions, Hearth & Home
Technologies strongly recommends:
• Installing the pellet vent with a minimum
vertical run of five feet, preferably terminating
above the roof line.
• Installing the outside air intake at least four feet
below the vent termination.
To prevent soot damage to exterior walls of the
house and to prevent re-entry of soot or ash into
the house:
• Maintain specified clearances to windows,
doors, and air inlets, including air conditioners.
• Vents should not be placed below ventilated
soffits. Run the vent above the roof.
• Avoid venting into alcove locations.
• Vents should not terminate under overhangs,
decks or onto covered porches.
• Maintain minimum clearance of 12 inches from
the vent termination to the exterior wall. If you see
deposits developing on the wall, you may need
to extend this distance to accommodate your
installation conditions
I was not able to find your stove's manual written in English.
 
Short story - You can't draw combustion air from an enclosed area of the house. Attics and crawl spaces are no good.
 
Na, I dont see it as a big deal...
 
I wouldn't, always go by manufactures instructions.
 
So what's the deference in what i am wanting to do verses leaving the oak not hooked up. It seems to me it would be more of a hazard leaving it off(embers-smoke-etc)
 
karl0525 said:
So what's the deference in what i am wanting to do verses leaving the oak not hooked up. It seems to me it would be more of a hazard leaving it off(embers-smoke-etc)

One of the differences is that if one followed the installation manual and didn't OAK their stove all of the bad stuff (hot things) hits a fireproof hearth.

While the likely hood of things getting so bad that something hot gets out into the attic under your proposed setup is very low (it occurs only in a failure mode) what's around that opening isn't anywhere near being fireproof.

However this is but one aspect of the air intake the other is a decent burn for that you need an actual source of air that is sufficient for a good fire, obtaining your combustion air from an enclosed space (this is also the case for non OAKed stoves as well) can be problematic in this regard.
 
karl0525 said:
So what's the deference in what i am wanting to do verses leaving the oak not hooked up. It seems to me it would be more of a hazard leaving it off(embers-smoke-etc)

That's an even worse idea. Outside Air has many purposes. One, if somehow an ember gets in there, it goes outside (like someone else noted). Two, cold air has a higher oxygen content. Leaving the OAK off will result in colder fires (less oxygen). And three, probably most importantly in my opinion, is the outside air kit forces air in the house, creating a positive pressure, forcing hot air throughout the house, then OUT the cracks and doorways of the house. If it pulled air from inside the house, it would pull cold air in through those cracks and doorways. Get it? It would be like pumping up a tire by pulling air from INSIDE the tire.
 
Okay I've thought over everybody's comments. Any ideas were to get a oak into from a interior wall as the original fireplace was built in the corner of the room on a interior room.It has a 8 inch flue that I got a 3 to 8inch adapter any ideas would be great thanks again for everybody suggestions
 
karl0525 said:
Okay I've thought over everybody's comments. Any ideas were to get a oak into from a interior wall as the original fireplace was built in the corner of the room on a interior room.It has a 8 inch flue that I got a 3 to 8inch adapter any ideas would be great thanks again for everybody suggestions

You're better off having no OAK VS running it up into the attic. It's probably not code but if you're not getting permits it doesn't matter anyway.

Do you have a brick hearth that you cannot drill through or something?
 
karl0525 said:
Okay I've thought over everybody's comments. Any ideas were to get a oak into from a interior wall as the original fireplace was built in the corner of the room on a interior room.It has a 8 inch flue that I got a 3 to 8inch adapter any ideas would be great thanks again for everybody suggestions

There is an exhaust vent pipe that is double-walled. The space between the two walls is where the oak draws air from. Not sure what brand, but I believe that is it's purpose. Someone else can help me out with the brand.
 
After reading all the reasons not to get fresh air from the attic because you might get a ember up there it strikes me funny that that same ember would just conventially fall on the hearth pad and not be blown a foot or two onto the carpet.
There is a company that makes a good double wall pipe used on the Bixby stove. I don't remember the name but probably someone else will.
Most attics I've been in have vent holes so outside air does circulate in and out of those attics thus it is not airtight as the main part of the house.
 
Yes it does have about 20 12x18 inch vents all around the eves of the house more than enough in my book for a small oak the attics her in the south are setup for alot of ventilation for the 100 plus degree days during summer the exaust is going into a existing chimney with a 8 inch liner. I bought a 3 inch to 8 inch adapter that I will be using. The house is on a slab foundation and the outside wall is over 15 ft away so my 2 options no oak -or go to attic ? Any other things aim missing? Thanks
 
karl0525 said:
Yes it does have about 20 12x18 inch vents all around the eves of the house more than enough in my book for a small oak the attics her in the south are setup for alot of ventilation for the 100 plus degree days during summer the exaust is going into a existing chimney with a 8 inch liner I bought a 3 inch to 8 inch adapter that I will be using the house is on a slab foundation and the outside wall is over 15 ft away so my 2 options no oak or go to attic ? Any other things aim missing? Thanks

Your options are only limited by your budget. :)

You need to look at the manufacturer's directions.

Do you have access to the attic? If so simply run it up into the attic as planned but terminate the vent at one of the soffit holes in the same manner you would as if you were going through any other wall.

Again we can only make suggestions based on certain assumptions so they may or may not be helpful.

How about a picture or two?
 
I could run it up the wall and out to the outside eve that's going to be 9 ft up and 14 ft over if I went with a 2 inch to 4 adapter do you think the total feet would be a problem or would the 4 inch be alright to go that length
 
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