OK, here's my stove

[mj5001]

It's a Drolet eldorado which I stole at 525.00 plus an 11% rebate (minus another 52 bucks -- thank you Menards).

Anyway, from the photo you can see the fireplace it will sit in front of.

The very top of the outlet is 15" to the lentil (where it sits now, on the floor).

I'm putting a top plate up where the damper was with my pipe inlet.

Where it sites now, I would have to lay 3 sections of tile and really don't like it's proximity to my rug. BUT, doing it that way, i could possibly use (2) 45 degree elbows and eliminate a 90 degree coming out of the stove top.

BUT -- honestly, what I would prefer doing, is actually building a platform about 5 - 6" high and only use 2 sections of tile coming out to the room.

I would have more walk around space and if I raised it, I could slide the stove back a litte into the fireplace opening, where the blower is. Of course, then it would probably have to be a pretty sharp 90 degree because I would reduce the space from 15" to around 10.

Tell me you think the 2nd option would be ok because it's what I'd really like to do.

I plan on cleaning the pipe every year and hell, if I even have to replace the elbow I will.

Is there a problem with having a 90 so close to the stove like that?

 

[begreen]

If the draft is poor then problems will show up with smokey balky starts and smoke spillage when reloading. Most top venting stoves want at least 3ft vertical pipe before going horiz. How tall is the chimney? Note that the hearth needs to extend at least 16" in front of the stove glass.

 

[mj5001]

Well if that's the case, I'll have to go with the 3 tiles out and then a couple of 45's (don't want to though) -- code needs the 16"?

 

[Wood Duck]

I have two 90s in the pipe connecting my stove to the tile flue that was built with the house. Mine works pretty well.

 

[budman]

Cut the leg,s down and stick that puppy in the fire place
no need for elbows.

 

[wkpoor]

I looked at that one last weekend at Menards. Outward appearence it looks very well built.

 

[Pallet Pete]

Nice deal and a good looker ! Congrats Does it have removable legs? If so you might be able to build up the front of the fireplace with brick and set it in most of the way ( which would look sweet ).

Pete

 

[Huntindog1]

Congrats on the Menards Deal, someone else on here got the 11% off a 25% clearance stove from Menards.

I got my Vogelzang Performer on sale last fall at Menards $200 off for $699 It has performed very well for me. For a 2.12 Cubic foot box the 4 burn tubes across the top make for the good performance as I think alot of stoves in this size range other manufacturers just put 3 burn tubes in the top. Usually you only see 4 tubes in fire boxes in the 3 cu. ft. and up range.

As I posted in the Gear Room , Yesterday I got the 22 ton Huskee Logsplitter from Tractor Supply but they honored the 11% sale Menards was having as Menards also sells a 999.00 22 ton splitter. I noticed today TSC raised the price back up to 1099.00 so I guess I saved over $200.

Great week for deals for sure!!

 

[Coleman Stove]

It's a Drolet eldorado which I stole at 525.00 plus an 11% rebate (minus another 52 bucks -- thank you Menards).

Anyway, from the photo you can see the fireplace it will sit in front of.

The very top of the outlet is 15" to the lentil (where it sits now, on the floor).

I'm putting a top plate up where the damper was with my pipe inlet.

Where it sites now, I would have to lay 3 sections of tile and really don't like it's proximity to my rug. BUT, doing it that way, i could possibly use (2) 45 degree elbows and eliminate a 90 degree coming out of the stove top.

BUT -- honestly, what I would prefer doing, is actually building a platform about 5 - 6" high and only use 2 sections of tile coming out to the room.

I would have more walk around space and if I raised it, I could slide the stove back a litte into the fireplace opening, where the blower is. Of course, then it would probably have to be a pretty sharp 90 degree because I would reduce the space from 15" to around 10.

Tell me you think the 2nd option would be ok because it's what I'd really like to do.

I plan on cleaning the pipe every year and hell, if I even have to replace the elbow I will.

Is there a problem with having a 90 so close to the stove like that?

That's a pretty nice looking stove... Where did you get that? Is that a family heirloom or something?

 

[ethanhudson]

Congrats on the Menards Deal, someone else on here got the 11% off a 25% clearance stove from Menards.

I got my Vogelzang Performer on sale last fall at Menards $200 off for $699 It has performed very well for me. For a 2.12 Cubic foot box the 4 burn tubes across the top make for the good performance as I think alot of stoves in this size range other manufacturers just put 3 burn tubes in the top. Usually you only see 4 tubes in fire boxes in the 3 cu. ft. and up range.

As I posted in the Gear Room , Yesterday I got the 22 ton Huskee Logsplitter from Tractor Supply but they honored the 11% sale Menards was having as Menards also sells a 999.00 22 ton splitter. I noticed today TSC raised the price back up to 1099.00 so I guess I saved over $200.

Great week for deals for sure!!

I just bought a new Drolet Austral for $699 + the 11% rebate. Awesome stove for sure...

 

[madison]

Hard to tell from the pics, but the floor looks like slab concrete? The other clearance issue with your current plan is there may be 2x4's behind the brick on the current hearth....

 

[mj5001]

The hearth is Indiana limestone all around and very deep stones -- fireplace is in the center of the house about 13' 8" to the top of the chimney, which will have new 6" flex liner (already bought off craigs list for 60 bucks !)

Yes, the floor is CONCRETE -- an industrial flooring system with steel beams and concrete.

Why?

The house was built in 1960 and the guy made the basement into a bomb shelter ! I'll be putting up a tile hearth and a floating laminate floor.

I really wish I could build up the stove platform so I could get more floor space and sneak the stove's blower back into the fireplace opening, but like I say it would create the need for a sharp 90 degree coming right out of the stove (I can go UP about 6" first, however).

Someone said I may have some draw problems.

What about a "helper fan" or something that mounts in the chimney? Do they make anything like that to help it draw?

Don't want to do any leg cutting -- this thing is solid and they are welded on.

 

[Cueman]

You could hire a mason. (or yourself). Stone over the fireplace. With a grinder, score your round opening at approx. 36" above flue height, or stove spec. Hammer drill out the stone or brick. Tie into chimney flue with Class A flue connector kit. Assuming your chimney liner is in good shape, not sure if you were planning to re-line the whole install. Use double wall connector pipe and you can leave the wood mantle.

Or, sell the stove and get an insert that fits the opening. No sense in Jimmy rigging connector pipes to force the fit. It won't look clean and you'll potentially sacrifice performance and safety.

 

[Huntindog1]

Ethan,

Nice looking Austral, I would have like to have that 3.1 cubic foot box.

Whats the height of the interior of the box as how high can you stack wood?


MJ5,

With the size of your stove you will want to know about rake your coals forward technique to get a longer burn time. As always make sure you use wood thats super dry like 15% moisture content measured with a moisture meter (20% will work) , measure before you buy it.

https://www.hearth.com/econtent/index.php/forums/viewthread/88397/

 

[ethanhudson]

Ethan,

Nice looking Austral, I would have like to have that 3.1 cubic foot box.

Whats the height of the interior of the box as how high can you stack wood?

14" high, 18" wide, and 21" deep; those measurements are with the firebrick/baffle installed. Works out to be 3.148 cubic foot firebox, and it loads N/S, I LOVE IT!

 

[Huntindog1]

The manual lists it as a 3.373 cubic foot so they must be measuring the space above the baffle and or with out fire bricks.

 

[mj5001]

I need to repeat myself and ask again --

although I'll probably keep it on the floor and do a gradual incline to the chimney, if I did have to do a sharp 90 starting about 6" above the top of the stove, do they make any sort of fan that would encourage draft? something you mount outside?

I would love to raise the stove about 5" on a platform and put the blower back toward the opening, using just 2 tiles of floor space and making it easier to load. (not as much bending)
but someone said I may get smoke in the room when I reload? how about a fan I turn on right before I open the door?

 

[KaptJaq]

A 13'6" internal flue with 6" flexible SHOULD have a pretty good draft. Each bend will reduce the draft a little. 90s will slow it more than 45s. Does your manual have any minimums or restrictions on the flue length and bends?

Since each situation is different you will not know if two 90s will work until you try it. As long as the configuration complies with the manual and local code I would set it up using some paving stones to mimic your preferred hearth configuration and light a small fire. If you get smoke in the room or poor burns then you know it needs more draft and less angles. You could also increase the draft by extending the pipe at the top another 2 or 4 feet. Since it is a concrete floor you should not have a problem with the clearance around the unit for your test.

What will the testing cost you? Some paving stones, a couple of pieces of black pipe and the 90 angles?

KaptJaq

 

[cahaak]

I also took advantage of the 11% rebate. Got the Myraid for $674 + 11% rebate. A very nice deal.

This is going to be more work for you but I think you should consider taking the hearth down inside of the fireplace opening. In other words - cut the center section of the hearth out and bring it down to floor level. If you do that, you can just set the stove right in the opening and the flue connection will be almost stright up. It will be a lot of work and some mess as you will need to cut out the hearth with a diamond saw take it out, then redo it to make it look decent. Not sure what is under your hearth. It may just be framed out with the masonary work on top of it. Take some front pictures first then print them out and mark them up, or photoshop them to see if the look will work for you.

Chris

 

[mj5001]

good idea kaptjag -- I'll just test it that way first !

 

[mj5001]

just can't do that cahaak -- I'm you knew all the remodeling I've done on this place (myself) -- bushed. be nice if I had that room though>

 

[John the Painter]

Congrats on the Menards Deal, someone else on here got the 11% off a 25% clearance stove from Menards.

I got my Vogelzang Performer on sale last fall at Menards $200 off for $699 It has performed very well for me. For a 2.12 Cubic foot box the 4 burn tubes across the top make for the good performance as I think alot of stoves in this size range other manufacturers just put 3 burn tubes in the top. Usually you only see 4 tubes in fire boxes in the 3 cu. ft. and up range.

As I posted in the Gear Room , Yesterday I got the 22 ton Huskee Logsplitter from Tractor Supply but they honored the 11% sale Menards was having as Menards also sells a 999.00 22 ton splitter. I noticed today TSC raised the price back up to 1099.00 so I guess I saved over $200.

Great week for deals for sure!!

I just bought a new Drolet Austral for $699 + the 11% rebate. Awesome stove for sure...

I have the Austral as well.Great stove.Will throw heat like like no ones business and the secondaries are like hellfire :coolsmile:

 

[Lumber-Jack]

Why do you even have to raise the stove at all?
Are you planning to tile that whole floor? If so I would just keep the stove down at that lowest level and push it back towards the hearth as close as you can get it, then you can get the best rise off the stove for the flue before going into the fireplace opening. And you'll get the best clearance for foot traffic around the front of the stove and not have to worry about stubbing your toe on a raised hearth pad.
Oh, and pull the rug a few inches away from the stove if you have to.

 

[begreen]

14ft with two 90's directly off the stove is a bad prescription for draft. At best it will have an equivalent of about 8ft of pipe. Using 2 45s would help a lot if that is an option. If not, my thought would be to take the legs off and set the stove on 2-3" blocks, on the hearth, deep enough to connect it to the liner with nothing greater than a 30deg. elbow (if needed).

 

[mj5001]

I've decided to leave it where it is in the photo with the tile base and use (2) 45's and a 24" pipe -- and keep my fingers crossed.