Old Woodstove Install - Help the newbie!

[jim_arnau]

I have an old woodstove that used to be installed in the fireplace at my cabin that I would like to reinstall. There is no stove pipe with the old stove, so I need to figure out what parts are necessary to install it. There is also a cast iron plate with the stove that covers the fireplace opening. The stove sticks out beyond the plate when complete. The chimney has 13x13 tiles.

I know a new insert would be more efficient, but I am working on some other projects for the cabin right now, so I am trying to do this install as inexpensively as possible. I am not extremely concerned with efficiency at this point. A woodstove and sealed hearth of any sort must be better than the open hearth that is there now.

Can I just run stovepipe up into the chimney and call it good? That may be a ridiculous question, not sure. How do I seal the hearth from evacuating warm air from the house? I am completely ignorant with this stuff aside from what I have picked up in a couple of searches on this site. Next year I would like to get a woodburning insert, so this would be a temporary thing.

Where do I start???????

 

[ozarkjeep]

If your chimney is in good condition, I know some folks do just that, shove short section of pipe up inside, and call it good.
I think that is referred to as 'direct connect'

sometimes, I have heard that might not provide good enough draft for the stove to work well though.

the photos down this page explain some of your questions I think

http://www.woodheat.org/technology/inserts.htm

I have an old woodstove that used to be installed in the fireplace at my cabin that I would like to reinstall. There is no stove pipe with the old stove, so I need to figure out what parts are necessary to install it. There is also a cast iron plate with the stove that covers the fireplace opening. The stove sticks out beyond the plate when complete. The chimney has 13x13 tiles.

I know a new insert would be more efficient, but I am working on some other projects for the cabin right now, so I am trying to do this install as inexpensively as possible. I am not extremely concerned with efficiency at this point. A woodstove and sealed hearth of any sort must be better than the open hearth that is there now.

Can I just run stovepipe up into the chimney and call it good? That may be a ridiculous question, not sure. How do I seal the hearth from evacuating warm air from the house? I am completely ignorant with this stuff aside from what I have picked up in a couple of searches on this site. Next year I would like to get a woodburning insert, so this would be a temporary thing.

Where do I start???????

 

[jim_arnau]

Right, direct connect...that sounds quick and easy. But I'm wondering where to isolate the house from the outside air using that connection. Would I put some kind of insulating ring around the stove pipe that runs up in the chimney, or is the seal made between the hearth and the backing plate?

 

[ozarkjeep]

you could use a block off plate ( search here, or I think its in the Wiki)

one of the biggest drawbacks of the direct connect though, is you have to be able to get access to the top and surrounding area of the insert after cleaning your chimney, since all the creosote just falls on top of and around the stove.

Right, direct connect...that sounds quick and easy. But I'm wondering where to isolate the house from the outside air using that connection. Would I put some kind of insulating ring around the stove pipe that runs up in the chimney, or is the seal made between the hearth and the backing plate?

 

[elkimmeg]

Has anyone checked the Cross sectional codes we are talking about a modular 13 /13 flue liner crosecctional area of 144 inches that stove would need to be a 10" flue collar to meet the code not 6" 7" 8" or 9" If it less that 10" a full liner would be required and direct connection would not be code compliant If an interior chimney a 8" flue collar would satisfy code

 

[jim_arnau]

I found some instructions on how to make a block off plate. I think what you are talking about is a damper INSIDE the stainless pipe. Correct? I think there is a damper in the old stove. Would that be enough? It appears to be adjustable, rather than open/closed like some other stoves I've seen.

Thanks,
Jim

 

[MrGriz]

Can you post some pictures of the current set up and the fireplace? Of course, when it comes to code compliance, Elk is right. But, if this is a temporary set up to get you through this winter, it may be worth trying with the direct connect. The big problem you may run into is inadequate draft with the large flue size. The cure for this would be a full liner, which could be added if the direct connect doesn't draft well.

It would be a PITA to tear it apart and start over if the stove doesn't draft well with the direct connect, but the thing to do at that point would be to fully line the chimney (which you'll want to do next year anyway). If you do opt to try the direct connect, you need to extend the pipe to the first clay flue tile and create a sealed block off plate at the location of the damper. This will prevent any flue gasses from entering the living space and heat from escaping up the open chimney.

The other big problem with the direct connect is that it's a PITA to clean. Again, if this is only for this season, it may not be a big concern. Clean the chimney at the start of this season, before you rig everything up, and I would think you should be good to go until you clean it prior to lining for next year.