Older Jotul's may need work

  • Active since 1995, Hearth.com is THE place on the internet for free information and advice about wood stoves, pellet stoves and other energy saving equipment.

    We strive to provide opinions, articles, discussions and history related to Hearth Products and in a more general sense, energy issues.

    We promote the EFFICIENT, RESPONSIBLE, CLEAN and SAFE use of all fuels, whether renewable or fossil.

Toploader

Burning Hunk
Sep 28, 2013
190
Nova Scotia
Hello fellow Jotul owners I'm posting this hoping it might be useful information, maybe it won't be news to anyone but I sure have learned a lot. Thanks to branchburner in this thread: https://www.hearth.com/talk/threads/jotul-f600-air-leak.148215/ I decided to tear my Oslo apart and reseal the Air Manifold, Tube frame Holder and Tube Holders. I removed the firebrick and all of the above mention parts scraped away the old cement, sanded and wire brushed all rusty areas and then reassembled using stove cement. It took me about 4 hrs to do and now my Oslo is finally functioning as it should.

This really makes me happy because after 2 seasons of burning this 2002 Oslo I thought I had done everything I could do to prevent this stove from chewing through the wood, absolutely no air leaks I was sure, but after seeing a friends brand new Oslo in operation I knew for certain that my stove was getting too much primary air and not enough secondary air. I'd have the primary air all the way off and still the firebox was aglow with very little secondary action and the wood was gone in no time.

This quote from Branchburner says it all for me: "It is now behaving very differently than before, with great secondaries and throwing great heat, with lower flue temps. Instead of a bright red-orange roaring fire filling the whole box, I have more restrained blue-orange flames mostly at the top of the box. The burn has definitely slowed considerably. So far so good."

The cement Jotul uses to seal these components eventually cracks and falls out and when it does the stove cannot function efficiently so I see this as a semi regular maintenance item especially since it isn't difficult or time consuming to do.
 
Last edited by a moderator:
Yes all the secondary air components are sealed with cement, at least on the Oslo, and it does break down.
Firewood daddy with your stove being as old as it is I would at least do a visual check on the air manifold where it joins the back and bottom of the stove just behind the firebrick. Resealing these components might make your stove even more efficient and controllable.
 
  • Like
Reactions: xman23
Yes all the secondary air components are sealed with cement, at least on the Oslo, and it does break down.
Firewood daddy with your stove being as old as it is I would at least do a visual check on the air manifold where it joins the back and bottom of the stove just behind the firebrick. Resealing these components might make your stove even more efficient and controllable.

Toploader - Thanks for all of this great information. This is going to help a lot of the Oslo 500 owners out there who start to experience shorter burn times, little or no secondaries, and lower than expected stove top temps. And it's a relatively quick fix!
 
Hello fellow Jotul owners I'm posting this hoping it might be useful information, maybe it won't be news to anyone but I sure have learned a lot. Thanks to branchburner in this thread: https://www.hearth.com/talk/threads/jotul-f600-air-leak.148215/ I decided to tear my Oslo apart and reseal the Air Manifold, Tube frame Holder and Tube Holders. I removed the firebrick and all of the above mention parts scraped away the old cement, sanded and wire brushed all rusty areas and then reassembled using stove cement. It took me about 4 hrs to do and now my Oslo is finally functioning as it should.
This really makes me happy because after 2 seasons of burning this 2002 Oslo I thought I had done everything I could do to prevent this stove from chewing through the wood, absolutely no air leaks I was sure, but after seeing a friends brand new Oslo in operation I knew for certain that my stove was getting too much primary air and not enough secondary air. I'd have the primary air all the way off and still the firebox was aglow with very little secondary action and the wood was gone in no time.
This quote from Branchburner says it all for me: "It is now behaving very differently than before, with great secondaries and throwing great heat, with lower flue temps. Instead of a bright red-orange roaring fire filling the whole box, I have more restrained blue-orange flames mostly at the top of the box. The burn has definitely slowed considerably. So far so good."
The cement Jotul uses to seal these components eventually cracks and falls out and when it does the stove cannot function efficiently so I see this as a semi regular maintenance item especially since it isn't difficult or time consuming to do.
 
Doesn't sound like too big a deal. Anyone had to fix air leaks in the cast side panel seams, or bottom seams?