Oops, I snipped the wires

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wally1234

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Sep 5, 2010
160
CT
I have a Harmon p52i... I tried pushing my insert back in the fire place and I did some damage to the wires (right side of insert)

1. Green wire is not cut in half, however I skimmed the outside sleeve. Looks like it belongs to my temperature probe(I think) can I just electric tape it? Or does it need to be replaced?

2. This wire is cut in half... two wires. Can I stripe them then connect them back and eletric tape it or does it have to be replaced?


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I would strip,butt connect, and tape.
 
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The green wire can be taped, if it's not expose to a lot of heat. The other wires would best be soldered and shrink tubed, but again, tape if not exposed to heat. Polarity of the wires may or may not be important - what do they feed? I don't trust butt splices over long term, especially when exposed to heating cycles. YMMV.
 
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Proper way is to crimp/solder/shrink tubing,but,it is night,and cold,tape over damaged insulation,twist cut wires together and tape,and plan on doing it right in near future.
 
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I just wanted to say strip and butt connect, very juvenile of me......didn't consider excessive heat in that location
 
I just wanted to say strip and butt connect, very juvenile of me......didn't consider excessive heat in that location
LOL Being a mechanic,crimping is temporary,and for low voltage electronics(the twisted pair sensor wires)always get soldered
 
Personally I would wire nut them or splice and tape with good quality electrical tape. I would not be so concerned with heat because if it was hot enough to affect a splice or wire nut etc; it would be too hot for the wire coating or sheath.

I agree soldering and shrink tubing is a better final product but I really do not think it is absolutely necessary if the wires are reattached and taped. That said I also feel other options would work well enough and last too because the temps where the wires are, are obviously not hot enough to melt or burn the wires there to begin with. Otherwise all these wires would have been shielded on the OEM install.
 
I did the same exact thing Sunday while cleaning my 52i. I just went to the hardware store and bought new crimp push on terminals, stripped the wired, crimp on new terminal and made the connection, no problems. As far as the green ground goes, if the wire strands aren't frayed I would just wrap in electrical tape otherwise cut and crimp a new connector on. I wouldn't worry about the heat in that area, there is nothing special about those wires and they handle the heat in that location just fine.
 
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The wires just push on to their connectors with spade terminals, what's with all the concern about wire nutting or using crimp connectors ? Whole houses are wired using them. You certainly could solder them but I wouldn't bother with that if it was my stove. 46 years in the heavy truck industry and we crimp connected way more than solder connected, and all the more so after heat shrink came on the scene ( heat shrink seals from moisture and road salt corrosion better than tape ). A stove just sits there in a fireplace, it isn't pounding down the highways and byways. You have to get pretty imaginative to think a crimp connection won't hold better than those spades at the end of the wire.
 
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These are temp probe leads. You can twist together and tape or better yet wire nut them. They don't get exposed to a lot of heat. Wouldn't bother soldering unless you are very finicky.
 
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As mentioned is really boils down to how picky and thorough you want to be. As I stated I'd get the wires joined back up in a simple and quick way, tape it as needed and slam it back in the hole. Fire it up and forget about it.

Alternative mentioned something I was going to say and added another good view about having a road worthy stove..... LOL! Your stoves simple little wires are nothing really special other than connecting what they are "wired" for. That said I would make sure connections are solid and covered so there is no chance of arching nor contact that would blow a fuse or fry something creating another headache.

I see wire nuts used everyday in residential and commercial wiring jobs. Have for decades. Another point regarding heat is they are also used in some high heat lighting etc; and are never an issue. Inside many lights you will also find crimp type or splice connectors used by the manufacturer intended to last the life time. I wouldn't over think this and make a mountain out of a mole hill.

I have two modes: Anal Andy Overkill and Q & D which is Quick and Dirty (but right) and gets it done well safely. Take your pick but if you'll lose sleep over thinking about some electrical tape soon forgotten then go over kill. These wires perform one simple function of connecting things. I'd personally go Q & D on this. As for the green ground tape it up.
 
Well,I was going to,nevermind.Low voltage(5v computer voltage) splices should always be soldered.Crimps on low voltage are short term.Moveable items should be soldered.Period.But for short term/temporary/may last repair,crimps are fine.
 
Bob, There is no doubt a soldered connection is better and more thorough. I have soldered speaker wire before along with other lower voltage. But if the OP just needs to get fired up and probably last the entire season I think they'd be fine just making the connections.

I also always use dielectric grease on my fittings. Especially on my motorcycles which take on rain, mud, water crossings etc: I hit all my battery terminals and so forth. I usually swerve to the overkill and one and done but have gotten by doing minimal to run at times and left it like that until the next big going over and thru months or years later.
 
Thanks everyone... had to google. A few terms (shrink fitting).... just to recap ...

1. Green wire -
A. just electrical tape it and should be fine.

2. Blue wires (is there any polarity? Can I connect to any blue wire?

A. Strip wires a tad to exposure wire leads
B. Slip on shrink fitting
C. Twist wires together
D. Solder wires
E. melt fitting tube (melt it with what?)
F. Done

I see ppl mention crimp.. crimp what? I don't think I need new connectors

Are my steps correct?


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Sounds good to me go for it
You do not melt shrink tube You heat it with any heat source
and it shrinks to tight fit on the wire replacing the cover you striped off
Use enough heat to shrink it but not enough to melt or burn it
A lighter passed over it works , A heat gun is better or a propane
torch will work
 
Thanks john but what about the polarity of the blue wires... does it matter?


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It shouldn't because the wires are the same colour
my experience indicates that same colour means polarity
does not make a difference
 
Thanks john but what about the polarity of the blue wires... does it matter?


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No it doesn't matter for blue wires those are for temp probe you can wirenut them as well that makes it easier to take apart the next time you pull the stove.check the green wire before you tape and make sure it can't short out
 
No it doesn't matter for blue wires those are for temp probe you can wirenut them as well that makes it easier to take apart the next time you pull the stove.check the green wire before you tape and make sure it can't short out

How do I know if I can't short it?


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I think that green wire is the ground wire right? So if that's the case just tape it up but if it's a power wire then you may have to repair it
 
How do I know if I can't short it?


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You try to have a good enough connection that will not pull apart,and have the wiring out of the way,that will not drag/catch on something next time you slide out the insert.You can also use what I do,convoluted tubing,to double insulate the wiring,same as on vehicles,available at all automotive parts stores.
 
Update.... as I was working on the wires (blue) I didn't solder yet but I noticed at the ends there are black n red wires... should I be concerned about polarity now?

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No those are the temp wires does not matter one way or another will work fine
 
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