opinion on several different stoves and burn times

[Jclout]

In my search for longer burn times I have been checking out some other wood stoves and have noticed that some will list there full load times such as the Drolet Myriad and the Vogulzang Performer stating up to 12 hours, but some others I was interested in such as the Englander 30NCH and the U.S. Stove models 2000 and 2500 don't list any time, why? Is it because there are too many variables involved and it is safer not to? In response to the help you guys gave me on extending burn time for my Quad 3100 I thought about my wood supply of which it is usually a mixed bag, mostly hardwoods and not always seasoned. Also if I am loosing too heat up the chimney. But even so, probably the most time I could stretch out of a load of wood was 8 hours, and that is closed down and so no secondary burn, meaning more smoke and more creosote as well as not much heat. Am I expecting too much from my stove?, it does heat the house but at a reloading rate of 3 or so hours at its worst. If I am loosing too much heat up the chimney and I could keep some of it then I could turn down the air supply extending time somewhat but it would not make for a great difference. I looked into a stove pipe heat reclaimer from Vogulzang but don,t know that much about them and I know I could also use a damper but am not sure if you could use a reclaimer and damper at the same time. And like you said I could also install a blower to move the air more efficiently up stairs. A blower and heat reclaimer would be over $200., which would be nice to put toward a new stove along with a possible tax credit. I also need to replace the ceramic blanket and primary air timer that the 3100 has and that would be another $100. I could get an internal pipe temp guage and stove top model as well but would need to know what the temps should be to be burning efficiently for my stove which I'm sure you guys could help me with. Do you have any opinions on the stoves I have mentioned above good or bad?
John

 

[begreen]

It's best to ignore marketing claims on burn times. You are correct, there are too many variables and definitions about what constitutes "burn time". You have a good stove. Maintain it well and it will continue to be a clean burner with decent burn times for its size. Don't try to scavenge heat from the flue as long as it is at a reasonably lower point than the stove top. You want the flue gases to be hot enough to maintain good draft and prevent creosote condensation all the way to the cap.

 

[Fsappo]

I do the same as BG when giving advice. Ignore whats on the brochure. When I quote burn times to customers its either from personal experience or feedback from my customers. If I dont know, I'll kind of wing it and be conservative. I'll just tell folks if they want an 8 hour burn, go with a 2.5 cubic foot firebox or more, buy a decent stove and burn good wood.

 

[NH_Wood]

Sounds like Franks hit it - burn good wood! If you build a good fire, but can't dial down the primary air without choking the fire and losing secondaries, it sounds like you are burning unseasoned wood. You'll have a tough time getting good heat, with longer, cleaner burns, as long as you keep burning low quality fuel. Try to get a couple years ahead on your wood supply and then stay there - you'll see a huge difference in how your stove behaves. Cheers!

 

[Bigg_Redd]

In my search for longer burn times I have been checking out some other wood stoves and have noticed that some will list there full load times such as the Drolet Myriad and the Vogulzang Performer stating up to 12 hours, but some others I was interested in such as the Englander 30NCH and the U.S. Stove models 2000 and 2500 don't list any time, why? Is it because there are too many variables involved and it is safer not to? In response to the help you guys gave me on extending burn time for my Quad 3100 I thought about my wood supply of which it is usually a mixed bag, mostly hardwoods and not always seasoned. Also if I am loosing too heat up the chimney. But even so, probably the most time I could stretch out of a load of wood was 8 hours, and that is closed down and so no secondary burn, meaning more smoke and more creosote as well as not much heat. Am I expecting too much from my stove?, it does heat the house but at a reloading rate of 3 or so hours at its worst. If I am loosing too much heat up the chimney and I could keep some of it then I could turn down the air supply extending time somewhat but it would not make for a great difference. I looked into a stove pipe heat reclaimer from Vogulzang but don,t know that much about them and I know I could also use a damper but am not sure if you could use a reclaimer and damper at the same time. And like you said I could also install a blower to move the air more efficiently up stairs. A blower and heat reclaimer would be over $200., which would be nice to put toward a new stove along with a possible tax credit. I also need to replace the ceramic blanket and primary air timer that the 3100 has and that would be another $100. I could get an internal pipe temp guage and stove top model as well but would need to know what the temps should be to be burning efficiently for my stove which I'm sure you guys could help me with. Do you have any opinions on the stoves I have mentioned above good or bad?
John

Burn time/Schmurn time. As long as the stove is in proper working order (no leaks) burn time is all about firebox volume. Bigger firebox = longer burn time.

 

[MishMouse]

mostly hardwoods and not always seasoned.

That is one your biggest reasons for not getting the heat that you should be getting.

But even so, probably the most time I could stretch out of a load of wood was 8 hours, and that is closed down and so no secondary burn, meaning more smoke and more creosote as well as not much heat.

If your wood is seasoned even on low you still should still be getting secondary combustion.

If I am loosing too much heat up the chimney and I could keep some of it then I could turn down the air supply extending time somewhat but it would not make for a great difference.

How does your pipe from the stove run and what is your setup?
For me my stove is in the corner of a unfinished basement with the class A running through the floor in into an enclosure in the corner of my bedroom. I have a vent installed in the top of that enclosure to allow heat from the class A to enter the bedroom.

I looked into a stove pipe heat reclaimer from Vogulzang but don,t know that much about them

Search this site there is allot of posts about it, myself I would not recommend it due to you having a EPA stove and that it would only cool your flue further leading to more buildup.

 

[Jclout]

My double wall chimney is straight up but outside. The stove pip runs out through the basement wall. What should the temp be for stove pipe compared to stove top? Thanks for the input guys. John