hibeam said:
And here I was thinking that they've finally managed to clone a human being . . . well if the truth be told at first I thought you were going Pook on us by starting to change your name every few days.
Ordered some stove goodies
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And here I was thinking that they've finally managed to clone a human being . . . well if the truth be told at first I thought you were going Pook on us by starting to change your name every few days.
Hey guys- no pooking here. I got my probe thermemetor the other day in the mail, read the instructions and commenced install. Took only a couple minutes and the supplied collar fits snugly and seurely into the outter 1/4" hole...............
Yes, the condar works great though slower to react than I expected. I've put the meter up to 900 a couple of times already. When I drilled the holes in my stove pipe they turned out sort of triangular as holes often end up when you drill through sheet metal. I used a rat tail file to round out the hole and debur it until the condar snapped in place. Pretty slick system.
Yeah- I made the first fire of the season 2 nights ago, there were freeze warnings and what not. I hit the 900* mark and went a litle over for a brief spell, then kept on hummin. The stove was churnung out 500*..........
Slow1 said:
Sorry I missed your question. I use a combo of both and also look at the wood and make sure it's charred good. If you just go by the probe temp from a cold start you could lite off in a couple minutes but it could stall because the wood isn't ready. The cat also needs some time to adjust to the stove temps so there's no thermal shock.
If you reload on a good bed of coals you can monitor that probe and engage a little sooner like 5-10 minutes instead of waiting on the delayed stove top if you have good dry wood.
Todd said:
What does a stall look like anyway? Not that I plan to try and stall or even cut it that close, but it would be nice to be able to recognize one if it does happen.
I rather figured one wouldn't want to try and light off on the heat in the pipe from kindling before splits were well charred, however I have seen that the fire can be well established and the splits beyond charred with the pipe temp cruising along nice and hot 300+ and it seems to just be a matter of time for the surface temps to rise. Add to this the fact that 'exploring' the surface temp with the IR thermometer I see that the back of the top goes up first (no surprise - that is where the exit is when bypass is open) and can be over 250 well before the middle of the top gets over 200 - thus I've sat there thinking that it should be safe to engage the cat.
As to reload on coals - I'm hoping that I'll be able to come up with a timed method where I put the splits in the stove, come up with a set time, then be able to close things down - this will seriously help with the 'get the wife to do it' project. She doesn't want subjective measures like "well charred splits" - she wants to set the timer and just pull the lever.
Slow1 said:
A stall is basically smoke out the chimney and the stove top doesn't climb. I tell the wife reload at #2 air setting, wait 15 minutes, turn down to 3/4- 1 and engage the cat.
wendell said:
It doesn't make a difference, you can engage first then turn it down or the other way, I just tell the wife to do it before so she doesn't forget. ;-) Most people burn the stove with the air set somewhere between .5 and #1. When you burn over that you will consume more wood. I also painted the numbers with high temp white stove paint for better visibility.
Todd said:
Aha! I knew eventually I'd figure out who it was that did that so I could ask... I've only seen spray cans of hi-temp paint. Did you get a brush on paint for that? Not that I have looked yet, but is this something you can pick up in a stove shop or where did you get it? I hope it comes in a very small can as I see this as being a very small job.. (obviously I'd like to do the same).
I've just sprayed a puddle on a piece of wood and then dipped the painting tool into the puddle.
Considering the incredibly small area we are talking here, is there any other type of paint that will work for highlighting the numbers? Seems the local shop has any color you want as long as it is black and it seems a little crazy to spend $20 to get it online when all you need is a 1/4 ounce if even that.
I would like to do this too as it is going to be pretty dark back where the controls are.
I would like to do this too as it is going to be pretty dark back where the controls are.
Hmm... perhaps one of us gets a can, uses it, then passes it on to the next and... I didn't actually find white, but silver seems like it would work quite well!
I didn't actually find white, but silver seems like it would work quite well!
Those controls get hot but probably not too hot. Get the whiteout from your desk drawer. Any model paint? Maybe even some of the wife's fingernal polish?
I just bought a spray can from Menards, it wasn't much, maybe $4-5 and then I sprayed it into a paint pan til there was a small puddle and used an small artist brush. Also put a mark half way between 0 and 1 since that is where the lever sits most of the time. I'll pass it along if you want it, just give me an address, maybe I'll send a bottle of mead along with it. ;-)
Don't laugh too hard. The polish comes in these little bottles with an actual fine brush on the handle! The color selection is huge and you can choose an enamel or laquer. I used some as touch up paint on my old CJ5 with a cherry red paint job. Among reds the color selection is extra large.
Highbeam said:
I'm not laughing at all - just wondering what the worst case could be here. If it gets too hot on it there isn't much on there so I can't imagine it would be any sort of hazard. I'm thinking that the worst that can happen is that it gets too hot and either changes color (i.e. darkens and no longer is of value for the purpose) or falls off in some way (peals, flakes, whatever).
Acetone takes the stuff off (certainly wouldn't remove it with the stove running though!) - hopefully it would still do it after being baked on if it needed to be removed.
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