Oregon Chain Breaker and Spinner

[kubota]

I just ordered the Oregon Bench Mounted Chain Breaker and Rivet Spinner this morning from Baileys, along with (2) 100 ft. rolls of full chisel .325 x .063 Oregon chain. I am VERY "newb" to the process of chain breaking and rivet spinning though; I intend to learn as I go, figured I would go ahead and jump right in.

- Does anybody know anything about making your own chain loops??

- Where do I get the rivets and some extra drive links, cutters, etc.????

Thanks!!

In order to preempt some questions that seem to be asked pretty regularly, here is my attempt at one method.... Q: Why did you feel the need to buy this stuff? A: I enjoy learning how to do new things, and because I can. Q/S: I think you would be better off just buying one chain at a time, how can you justify the perceived cost and trouble involved in purchasing chain in bulk? A: I own and live on one whole section of land (640 acres), that is almost entirely covered in oak and pine trees; trust me, I cut down a lot of trees and make bunches of firewood, and because I can.

 

[JustWood]

The breaker is pretty self explanatory. A piece of plywood or board to keep the chain level when breaking helps alot.
The spinner you might want to try mashin the rivet down then backin off to make sure you didn't mash too much. If not crank it a liitle more till the rivets look similar to the rest. Try one chain first and run it on saw awhile to make sure you're doing it right before whippin up the whole roll.

PS I sold my breaker/spinner after I found a place thats sells them cheap enough it don't make cents to buy a roll.

 

[kubota]

Do you know a good source for the rivets and miscellaneous parts?

Where do you buy your chains? The way I have this figured is I paid

$458.00 - 200 FEET of chain.
200 FEET (2400 inches) / APPRX. 49 inches per 18" chain loop.
48 18" chain loops.
$458.00/48= $9.50 per chain. SO I can see where you are coming from.. I'll try it like this for a while, we'll see how it goes.

 

[smokinj]

The breaker is pretty self explanatory. A piece of plywood or board to keep the chain level when breaking helps alot.
The spinner you might want to try mashin the rivet down then backin off to make sure you didn't mash too much. If not crank it a liitle more till the rivets look similar to the rest. Try one chain first and run it on saw awhile to make sure you're doing it right before whippin up the whole roll.

PS I sold my breaker/spinner after I found a place thats sells them cheap enough it don't make cents to buy a roll.

+1

 

[JustWood]

Do you know a good source for the rivets and miscellaneous parts?

Where do you buy your chains? The way I have this figured is I paid

$458.00 - 200 FEET of chain.
200 FEET (2400 inches) / APPRX. 49 inches per 18" chain loop.
48 18" chain loops.
$458.00/48= $9.50 per chain. SO I can see where you are coming from.. I'll try it like this for a while, we'll see how it goes.

Hardware comes with roll.

 

[jebatty]

From many years of bicycle and even more 1,000's of miles of bicycle riding, I learned well how to break and make chains, and I use the same process for my chainsaw. No need for extra rivets or links. To make the new chain, start with an old, worn out chain; break it with the chain breaker. Lay it out flat next to a length of new chain, link for link exactly.

Then break the new chain by inserting the chain breaker and drive the rivet out far enough, but not all the way through, just to the opposite side of the chain so it is sticking out of that side. Chain comes apart easily by hand. Fold the new chain length together, and then drive the rivet sticking out the one side back through to the other side of the chain so the rivet head is sticking out of the other side just a hair, barely, farther than the other rivets. Be careful not to drive the rivet through the opposite side of the chain.

At this point the link will be tight and probably won't flex. Reverse the chain and drive the rivet back down just a hair so that the link flexes without any binding. You're done.

I suppose it's possible some will say to use another procedure or to use a new rivet, but I have done as described above many times with chains for my chainsaw and never have had any chains come apart, break, etc. My cutting every year is about ten cords of firewood and logs for about 5000+ bd ft of lumber.

Good luck. After a time or two it will go smoothly.

 

[smokinj]

From many years of bicycle and even more 1,000's of miles of bicycle riding, I learned well how to break and make chains, and I use the same process for my chainsaw. No need for extra rivets or links. To make the new chain, start with an old, worn out chain; break it with the chain breaker. Lay it out flat next to a length of new chain, link for link exactly.

Then break the new chain by inserting the chain breaker and drive the rivet out far enough, but not all the way through, just to the opposite side of the chain so it is sticking out of that side. Chain comes apart easily by hand. Fold the new chain length together, and then drive the rivet sticking out the one side back through to the other side of the chain so the rivet head is sticking out of the other side just a hair, barely, farther than the other rivets. Be careful not to drive the rivet through the opposite side of the chain.

At this point the link will be tight and probably won't flex. Reverse the chain and drive the rivet back down just a hair so that the link flexes without any binding. You're done.

I suppose it's possible some will say to use another procedure or to use a new rivet, but I have done as described above many times with chains for my chainsaw and never have had any chains come apart, break, etc. My cutting every year is about ten cords of firewood and logs for about 5000+ bd ft of lumber.

Good luck. After a time or two it will go smoothly.

Thats alot of cutting! You know how to make a chain without ?