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  1. vasten Member

    joined: Nov 11, 2007
    78 posts
    Upstate NY
    I recently purchased a magnolia 2015 wood stove to replace my regency 1100. I swapped the stoves out snd did my first few slow burn fires to set it up. Then after this it seems to burn out of control the air damper on the bottom has zero affect on the stove. I loaded the stove to do a trial with 8 pieces of cord wood and with tbe sir damper closed completely it burned through it in less than 3 hrs with a white hot fire. Since i have a straight run from stove top to chimney top. There are no restrictions my draw is so good it will suck a tissue out of you hand. I added two elbows to slow the draft. That did slow the burn rate down to a managable level. But tbe air control still does nothing. I crawled under the stove confirmed it is still hooked up. I put my leather gloves over it blocking the air entirely and still no change. Any ideas would be appreciated.
    #1

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  2. joescho Member

    joined: Feb 11, 2009
    189 posts
    Northeastern PA
    Its sucking lots of air from somewhere. You're going to have to do something similar to findling a leak in a toilet where you put dye in the tank and watch where it goes. You need to block your exhaust up to the chimney completely then get something that will give off some smoke and watch where it leaks out. Since its new I'm going to assume your gaskets are ok.
    Scotty Overkill likes this.
  3. mellow Minister of Fire

    joined: Jan 19, 2008
    1,752 posts
    Salisbury, MD
    Sounds like you need to install a damper.
    Scotty Overkill likes this.
  4. begreen Super Moderator

    joined: Nov 18, 2005
    36,118 posts
    South Puget Sound, WA
    If there is a leaky weld, it could be hard to find without removal of the firebrick and stove disassembly. Is the stove still under warranty?
  5. DAKSY Super Moderator


    Use a cigarette, an incense stick or a smoke stick, while the it's burning & move it around the stove see where that bad boy's sucking air.
    swagler85 likes this.
  6. begreen Super Moderator

    joined: Nov 18, 2005
    36,118 posts
    South Puget Sound, WA
    Tell us about the wood being burned. Size of splits? How tall is the flue? How do you run the stove?
  7. corey21 Minister of Fire

    joined: Oct 28, 2010
    2,208 posts
    Soutwest VA
    I would check for air leaks.

    But i will tell you the Mag will run away on you if you are not careful. With mine when i use small splits it will run very hot sometimes with big splits also.

    This bad boy don't mess around when burning good wood i run with my air control closed most of the time or i could turn it into a forge!!!

    Edit. I had to install a pipe damper on my setup i would highly recommend it with this stove.
    Dune likes this.
  8. gandrimp Member

    joined: Feb 12, 2010
    76 posts
    South central MO
    If you want smoke, a shop towel (one of the red ones) they smoke like crazy, not sure I would do it in my house, the smell lingers . It will light with a match and dont really burn very hard, but smoke alot.
  9. vasten Member

    joined: Nov 11, 2007
    78 posts
    Upstate NY
    Ok so i did the incense stick the other day and went around every seam i could find and nothing didn't draw smoke in at all. The damper in the bottom of the stove looks like cheap tin and hangs down about a half inch from body of stove. Behind that is another opening about two inches by three inch rectangle that i assume is for the secondary that is always open. The wood is a mix of hardwoods well seasoned 18-20" long and all decent size the same wood i burned two weeks ago with out a problem problem in my old stove. And n warranty i bought it from a guy who bought it new but never installed it
  10. Jags Super Moderator

    joined: Aug 2, 2006
    11,255 posts
    Northern Illinois
    By all means, if you haven't, check to make sure that the primary air lever is hooked up and operating correctly.
    Scotty Overkill likes this.
  11. corey21 Minister of Fire

    joined: Oct 28, 2010
    2,208 posts
    Soutwest VA
    Yep i would check the air control. Also do you have a thermometer on the flue pipe or the stove?
  12. vasten Member

    joined: Nov 11, 2007
    78 posts
    Upstate NY
    The flue therm gets up into the safe range 3-400 stovetop reg about 750-900 it is almost like it is stuck at a medium burn rate
  13. corey21 Minister of Fire

    joined: Oct 28, 2010
    2,208 posts
    Soutwest VA
    900 Is hot mine likes run with dry wood 650 to 750. What stove top temp do you close the air down?
  14. vasten Member

    joined: Nov 11, 2007
    78 posts
    Upstate NY
    650-750 stove top is avg but what makes me wonder if stove top is 750 and flue is 3-350 then thst is only 55% effecient far below what it should be
  15. corey21 Minister of Fire

    joined: Oct 28, 2010
    2,208 posts
    Soutwest VA
    Try backing the air down at 400 in stages my stove runs away if i let it get to that temp before i back it down.

    Edit. I think that is your problem by letting it get that hot before closing it down. I cant control mine with the air control if it is that hot already then i have to use my pipe damper.
  16. vasten Member

    joined: Nov 11, 2007
    78 posts
    Upstate NY
    So you installed a pipe damper too? And does you secondary ever kick in mine never seems to
  17. HotCoals Minister of Fire

    joined: Oct 27, 2010
    2,035 posts
    Rochester,Ny.
    Sure sounds like your primary air is not closing down like it should..my money is on that..at least for now.lol.

    After a new fire is burning for a 1/2 hour or so you should be able to cut it back to no flame..or at least almost no flame.
    Just bring the fire up slow then try that.
    Around then your secondary's should fire.
    Scotty Overkill likes this.
  18. Jags Super Moderator

    joined: Aug 2, 2006
    11,255 posts
    Northern Illinois
    It still sounds like you are getting way too much primary air. Have you checked the control and seal of the primary?
    Scotty Overkill likes this.
  19. corey21 Minister of Fire

    joined: Oct 28, 2010
    2,208 posts
    Soutwest VA
    Yeah i get a lot of secondary flames... You really need to check the air control to see if it is closing.
  20. blwncrewchief Member

    joined: Aug 30, 2011
    141 posts
    Northern, IN
    If this is the plate that the control rod open and closes over the primary intake inlet it should not be down a half inch. It should be lightly against the bottom of the stove. Can you take a pic for us.
    Scotty Overkill likes this.
  21. vasten Member

    joined: Nov 11, 2007
    78 posts
    Upstate NY
    Can you get to yours to take a picture of it? Mine is a big silver piece of tin that even when closed hangs about a half inch below the stove and has a v notch in the back too for clearance i guess
  22. corey21 Minister of Fire

    joined: Oct 28, 2010
    2,208 posts
    Soutwest VA
    Here is a pic of mine closed not a very good pic.
    DSCF0028.JPG
    Mine has a notch not shown in this pic.
  23. begreen Super Moderator

    joined: Nov 18, 2005
    36,118 posts
    South Puget Sound, WA
    Is it possible that your air control plate needs to be tighter to the stove body? Can you post some shots of your air control in the closed and open positions?

    Also, what is the flue setup like? How tall from stove top to flue cap?
    Scotty Overkill likes this.
  24. vasten Member

    joined: Nov 11, 2007
    78 posts
    Upstate NY
    Not the best picts but you can see it doesn't close all the way and at full close it is still open about 3/4 of an inch on one side and i can i can get the tip of my pinky between the damper and the stove 2013-02-14_17-51-34_753.jpg

    Attached Files:

  25. begreen Super Moderator

    joined: Nov 18, 2005
    36,118 posts
    South Puget Sound, WA
    I'm still not clear where the actual air hole into the stove is. Is it where your finger is pointing or is it on the opposite end where the V notch is? It looks like the later. Is the air intake the long rectangular slot that the blade is covering?

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