P43 feed rate maxed, also the dreaded rumble.

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Some pellets produce a lot of heavy ash, especially when running on low burn all day. My P61 can't get the ash line even close to the end of the pot running those types of pellets (such as ThermaGlos or Curran's blend from a couple of years ago). Better pellets don't produce this issue (Cubex, Platinums, Okies, PTL's or FSU's run fine). I haven't run GS, so don't know what their ash is like. Additionally, the ThermaGlo's that I am running are very cold - even with a strong flame the airstream doesn't get very hot. I can magically change that just by pouring a different brand in the hopper - I can pretty much tell the instant that the other brand hits. I have resorted to mixing the TG's with other pellets to keep the ash lighter and airstream warmer.

This may or may not be the issue, just my 2 cents.
Agree..
I don't subscribe to the pellet line formula..
never paid attention to it.. what ever is in my pot at whatever setting I have, that's how it works..
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Thanks for the reply's.
My stove is a 2011 model and ESP probe has the red wires (I wanted to change probe before switching to new pellets). Room temp on max burns the same as stove temp on max. When the stove first starts, it seems to be firing well, then the burn seems to dwindle. I have a meat probe on the exhaust and after first fire temp will avg 350 to 365. While the room is still screaming for heat (stove maxed) the temp will drop below 300 to 275. To me, prior to burning cheaper priced pellets, the feed rate is set to 4 would almost push pellets to the edge of burn pot. I'm hoping the Hamers will make a difference.

Check to make sure the connection to the room probe is fully seated on the back of the stove. Although this shouldn't make a difference in stove temp, a couple of years ago I had a problem with the P61a going into a maintenance burn after start up and stove temp didn't help. I had to re-seat the probe connection (evidently I had pulled on the probe and knocked the connection loose). It wasn't obvious that it was out of whack until I touched the connector area and could feel it slide just a little. I wiggled it around until it felt seated, and everything went back to normal
 
Have you done a dollar bill test on you door gaskets? Your past 4 years on the stove and they may be leaking enough to cause some issues like sucking your heat out.
 
I tried the Hamers today with no change. The stove works great with a full burn pot during warm up. Once stove is hot it appears to go into a low burn mode and struggles to heat up the room. I'm thinking the control panel may be failing?
 
Well if the temp control pot switch was not working it could be thinking that has met its temperature and is idling back? Not often the boards go out completely but that one of the switches fail. Again have you checked the door gaskets?
 
I'll do the dollar test on gaskets, when stove cools. As far as the pots, when I set to 70, stove will go to maintenance burn and when I leave and set to 60, house will be a 60 when I return. Stove is not running as hot as it should. it's struggling to get the room temp up as fast as it use to.
 
new ESP, Hamer Hot Ones and gaskets are sealed. Still has a low burn. Room temp setting appears to go on and off as it should. it just takes so long to heat the room. "low heat output"?
 
Acts like the stove thinks its meeting the exhaust. temp via the probe. Still wondering why you replaced it in the first place. First time I had this issue I was way overdue to clean the exhaust. The stove wasn't breathing. Tomorrows project list is to clean the exhaust for the rest of the season as fall running fouls my exhaust with short runs.
 
I had just changed the exhaust fan (noisy) and did a full clean. I changed probe as precaution/suspect (now have spare). I have cleaned stove from pot through complete exhaust. Cleaned out fine box and brushed/vacuumed all fans. Some thing is telling stove to slow down after stove gets to temp?

Stove is just not burning enough pellets.
 
Does it feed plenty of pellets when you turn it to test mode? Have seen where the stove has enough fuel to start but with a toy stuck in the flights was choking the normal feed rate.
 
Yes, with stove shut down, set to test mode and pellets fed fine. During startup the pot is fill. Once up to temp it appears the feed rate slows down and the burn pot is not full (feed rate at 6) causing low heat output.
 
Well a set of new pots is around $20 and could try and get them replaced and you will have a spare board. Hope you have the stove on a good surge suppressor and or a UPS
 
I'm curious as to the outcome, I'm struggling with a similar problem on my 2012 P38. Thing won't get as hot as it should, seems like there ESP is throttling it down once it gets up to temp. Was yours fixed with a control board? I ordered a new ESP but mine looks great and is cleaned regularly so I think something else is going on...
 
This is a old thread but has pretty much all things that can go wrong. An very obstructed vent will allow the stove to start but quickly start to throttle back when the exhaust gases get to temp but cant escape