P43 Hopper Switch Retrofit

[bogieb]

So I went to a Harman dealer at the beginning of last week and ordered side shields and hopper extension for the P43. I asked if it would need the hopper switch retrofit kit, and was told no (some do, some don't). weeelll, I installed the hopper extension the other night, went to turn on the stove this morning, and no workee.

Of course it needs the retrofit kit. If I hadn't been working in a dark corner so using a flashlight for everything, I would have noticed the switch isn't depressed by the hopper extension - of course many people say I'm always in the dark - LOL. I was already irritated that I had to retrofit the extension since it comes with "feet" for punch out holes at the front of the hopper as well as at the rear. My hopper only has punch outs for the rear feet - the lip of the front of the hopper isn't even big enough to accommodate feet. And, the stupid swell switch flippers are just enormous and will trap all kinds of pellets so I need to locate hardware that will work better (not a big deal, but more irritation).

Any who, now I'm wondering if anyone has made a home-made switch depressor for use with the hopper extension. Sure, I can buy one but looking online they are huge bulky things that are just ridiculous and look nothing like how the P61a is set up so I would prefer to try something else first.

Thanks for any suggestions you can give me!

 

[DAKSY]

You should be able to clip the wires & move the switch.
Then use spade connectors to reconnect with a jumper wire.
You should protect the new wiring with electrical tape or rubber tubing.
That's the method I plan on using if I ever get around to installing the
hopper extension on our P43...

 

[bogieb]

mmm, should have mentioned I am electrically dis-inclined, plus, then wouldn't I have wires hanging there in the hopper? I can see a disaster waiting to happen for my klutzy and unlucky self.

Probably work well for someone so inclined though. When you do it, post pics!

 

[CleanFire]

re: relocating hopper switch - If you want some help with that, let me know / can help.

 

[johninwi]

Could it be the extra wire already exists? Just coiled up below the hopper? Since they said you didn't need the additional kit maybe all the wire is long enough?

 

[Don2222]

My old P61s did not have a hopper lid switch and when I upgraded them and added an extension to one of them, i did not think for one minute to take the trouble of adding the hopper switch that would give me another point of failure! So in other words, my suggestion is jump the wires together and forget the switch.

 

[Lake Girl]

Looks like the extension kit is just a metal channel ...
http://www.stove-parts-unlimited.co...tch-Kit-for-Hopper-Extension-p/1-00-06826.htm

Edit - looks like an extension rod in the channel triggers the switch

 

[bogieb]

Looks like the extension kit is just a metal channel ...
http://www.stove-parts-unlimited.co...tch-Kit-for-Hopper-Extension-p/1-00-06826.htm

Edit - looks like an extension rod in the channel triggers the switch

Yep, and I can't really justify spending nearly $100 for a piece of rod to push the button down (I'm really confused by others discussing moving wires since I just assumed it was mechanical, not electrical). My P61a just has a rod, not a channel from when the dealer set it up. Unfortunately I have filled the hopper completely, so can't even get a look at how that was set up (and since the basement is holding steady at about 65, the stove isn't running), but I know for a fact it doesn't have that huge-azz channel there. I mean yeah, I know I can buy some rod, I just need to figure out how to attach it - preferably without drilling or riveting (and that is the crux of my problem). Did I mention I am much better at demolition than construction?

Could it be the extra wire already exists? Just coiled up below the hopper? Since they said you didn't need the additional kit maybe all the wire is long enough?

I still need a way to attach the switch so that the lid to the extension activates it. And, I am a super klutz and unlucky to boot, so I just don't think having wires dangling in the hopper is a real good idea for me

My old P61s did not have a hopper lid switch and when I upgraded them and added an extension to one of them, i did not think for one minute to take the trouble of adding the hopper switch that would give me another point of failure! So in other words, my suggestion is jump the wires together and forget the switch.

Sorry, I'm not looking for a work around - otherwise I could duct tape the dang thing down and be done with it. With my luck I need every safety device I can get and I definitely don't need to messing around with electrical

 

[bogieb]

Yep, and I can't really justify spending nearly $100 for a piece of rod to push the button down (I'm really confused by others discussing moving wires since I just assumed it was mechanical, not electrical). My P61a just has a rod, not a channel from when the dealer set it up. Unfortunately I have filled the hopper completely, so can't even get a look at how that was set up (and since the basement is holding steady at about 65, the stove isn't running), but I know for a fact it doesn't have that huge-azz channel there. I mean yeah, I know I can buy some rod, I just need to figure out how to attach it - preferably without drilling or riveting (and that is the crux of my problem). Did I mention I am much better at demolition than construction?

The P61a has finally burned enough pellets that I took another look at the way the hopper extension switch is combobulated - yep, it has the channel I am not good at visualization so when I looked at the channel pics, I didn't even think of turning the channel to face the side of the hopper .

However, that still leaves me trying to rivet the thing to the hopper extension. I do not see good things happening here. Maybe I will just duct tape the dang thing down.

 

[bogieb]

I think I might have mentioned how unlucky I am.

I finally decided just to tape the switch down and installed the hopper extension tonight. Took a while for me to get it to set just right - I kept checking with a flashlight to see if there was light coming thru. Once I finally got it set, I started up the stove. A while later I could smell smoke. THIS. IS. NOT. GOOD.

Checked the hopper and still no light filtration. BUT, I could feel air coming out of one corner (not the corner where the switch is). AARRGGHH. Shut the stove down and waiting for it to cool so I can remove the extension. Any suggestions on how to ensure a good seal? The swell latches are tight to where I can just pull them into the horizontal position, so I don't think it is that. I really don't want to RTV it, but will if that is the general consensus.