P68 Install - Beginning to end.

  • Active since 1995, Hearth.com is THE place on the internet for free information and advice about wood stoves, pellet stoves and other energy saving equipment.

    We strive to provide opinions, articles, discussions and history related to Hearth Products and in a more general sense, energy issues.

    We promote the EFFICIENT, RESPONSIBLE, CLEAN and SAFE use of all fuels, whether renewable or fossil.
Status
Not open for further replies.
Looks great! Nice Job!

What is that T-Stat on the wall?

If that is for your central heating system, then you may want to relocate it away from the stove.
 
Yes it is. I am still considering my options of where to put it, although, I'm really not worried about the downstairs freezing. (Kitchen has the utility closet with boiler in it AKA usually warm, boiler still needs to heat water / garage) System is glycoled, primarily concerned with domestic water.

I was worried about the insulated, unventilated crawl space though, so I am going put a thermostat down there, and wire it to all the zones (They all have a baseboard zone in the crawl space), and that will let me know the crawl space is getting too cold. Then I'll probably notch that down to one zone, once I know whats going on down there.
 
Very nice install. Feels great to do it yourself doesn't it. Enjoy the heat this winter.
 
]
looking back thru the pics and i didnt see a clean out T.did you use a t or did you just use a 90 deg elbow off the back of the stove.
 
Yes to the high temp silicone question. There's clear, black, etc. Looks awesome, it really does. Good work!
 
Hmmm... I'm guessing I will have to hit up a auto store for some clear/black high temp sealant.

Hooked up a manometer, draft high was -.75" and low was -.50", lowered to -.60" and -.35".

Set it up, works great, I will do a 2 hour burn tonight, since it's suppose to be colder.
Durvent with rubber gaskets.
I'm thinking I will go through the duravent venting, and seal all the piping. I just have a lack of confidence in the gaskets, and at start up there was some "wood burning smell". After unit was running, there were no odors / obvious leaks. There was no visible smoke. With a OAK / sealed venting. I did use high temp sealant @ the stove connection.

I do have a CO detector, before anyone asks.

Thermistor placement - I'm having issues deciding where to place it. Ideally I assume you don't want it in the path of the blower, near the stove's radiant heat, or close to a window. I am almost thinking of placing it in the stair well on closer to the first floor, this will maybe give a good average temperature for up and down stairs.
The stairwell is open to the living room.

Opinions? Thanks.

IMG_0281.jpg
 
Update: So after the 3 hour curing period, ran the unit again, noticed I could smell gases of combustion. Tried taping the seams not in view, and black caulking the visible seams. The odor remained.

Just got done taking apart all the duravent pro (It was all turned correctly) and re-sealed using high temp sealant. If this solves the problem, I would highly suggest everyone seal in the first place.

Wish me luck =/ I'm hoping it's not a bad 90*, because thats a lot of sealing.

I don't think I will do anything with thermistor placement until it is heating season.
 
Very nice! I hope you can find the source of the smell.
 
Looks awesome...

Most of the time, the appliance adapter is the culprit. The 1st piece that attaches to the stoves exhaust collar.

Thats a lot of BTU'S thats gonna make a LOT of Smiles this Winter :)
 
I can tell you from experience, when I first started my P68 5 years ago, I swore there was something leaking. Called the dealer, he said it happens to new stoves, a burn-in smell. He said it would be gone within a week and it was.

Tom C.
 
  • Like
Reactions: save$
I can tell you from experience, when I first started my P68 5 years ago, I swore there was something leaking. Called the dealer, he said it happens to new stoves, a burn-in smell. He said it would be gone within a week and it was.

Tom C.
Yea, I agree, there is a new stove smell that needs to burn off, Give it some time before you drive yourself nuts trying to find the exhaust leak, it may not be a leak.
 
Day 3:

1. Assembled stack and painted.
View attachment 71959

2. Lined up stack (Stood on oven), traced hole, used dry wall saw to form a cross, and used razor to trace the circle.
View attachment 71960

3. Punch the pie slices, and clean up. Did the same for outside wall but with a hammer/chisel. To line up holes, I cut a starter hole in the center using the thimble as a trace.
View attachment 71961
4. Put in stack, and clean up! W00T W00T. I did install a OAK (Used a metal dryer vent for outside and a automotive flex tube with a metal hose clamp) No one carried OAK locally.
View attachment 71962

5. Siliconed around/all over inside thimble.

For termination, you notice how there is a little gap around the duravent, I was wondering if there is a not so red high temp silicone I can use to seal that. The gasket on the inside plate isn't doing the job. It's not that big of deal, but anytime you can stop a little -40 degree air from coming in, thats a good thing.

View attachment 71958

Today I am borrowing a manometer from work, picking up a black surge protector and will be breaking her in.
I ran a bit of clear around mine just to make sure no bugs or rain could find it's way in.

dangit, now I have to paint my inside pipes. :(
 
I ran a bit of clear around mine just to make sure no bugs or rain could find it's way in.

dangit, now I have to paint my inside pipes. :(

Absolutely seal the gap between the thimble and the pipe... No air infiltration :)
 
Absolutely seal the gap between the thimble and the pipe... No air infiltration :)
I did caulk around it, outside with clear, inside with black. The dura vent thimble gasket is a joke, in my opinion.
 
Status
Not open for further replies.