P68 Issues - Any Theories?

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Enigma869

Feeling the Heat
Aug 27, 2011
282
Massachusetts
Good Morning All...

Over the past couple of nights, I've run into some issues with my P68. To give a little background, I have been running my stove in "room temp" mode, keep the temperature dial between 70 and 75, feed rate has always been about 3.5 and never adjusted, and igniter is switched from auto to manual, after the stove is started (stove is only turned off for cleanings) to allow it to idle (without flame going out) when not calling for heat.

Even with the insanely cold Winter we've had (many single digit and below zero overnights), my stove has always maintained 68-70 on the first floor and 71-73 on the second floor, with zero issues, and without me touching a single setting on the stove. Even though those temperatures are a bit warm for me to sleep, I do not turn them down overnight (to keep the wife happy). Two mornings ago, I woke up to a very cold house and my furnace kicked on (I leave my home thermostat set to 62 degrees). My stove was still on, but just seemed to have a lazy flame and didn't feel terribly hot when I was standing in front of it. When the P68 is ramped up, it's impossible to stand in front of it, because it's simply way too hot, so something seemed off to me. Incidentally, I should probably mention that the stove was just cleaned about a week ago, so that isn't an issue. I called my dealer, who mentioned that my vent pipe (my stove is a corner installation, with a Duravent Plus pipe directly out the back and 18 inches out) could be clogged. I trudged through the snow to check it. Although it wasn't blocked, there was plenty of junk that I was able to get out of it. I fired the stove back up, and it seemed to go right back to maintaining it's usual temperatures (again...I didn't adjust any dials). It went back to being impossible to stand in front of, because of how hot it was, so I assumed everything was okay.

I woke up yesterday morning to the very same cold house, with the stove still on and very lazy flame. Once again, I could stand directly in front of the stove, because the heat wasn't all that intense. I ended up shutting the stove down completely to see if the exhaust port next to the blower fan (in back of the ash pan) was jammed up from me pushing a brush in from the outside (seemed like a logical theory to me). Everything looked clear to me. I still took the opportunity to use the reverse end of my shop vac to blow out whatever was in there. I looked out the window and sure enough, some junk definitely blew out. In the interim, I called my dealer, who said he was going to send a tech by my house. I fired the stove back up, and the operation seemed to be back to normal. The tech came out, and ran his diagnostics (it's a computer Harman gives them to diagnose issues). According to him, everything was "normal". I told him that something simply wasn't right. He decided to go ahead and replace the ESP Probe, even though the computer said it was fine. He said that sometimes, that could still be the issue. He left my house at 3 yesterday afternoon. The stove went back to maintaining the same temperatures (in spite of being in the single digits outside) from the time he left, until I went to bed at 11:30 last night. I woke up at 3am, because the stove sounded like it was idling and I didn't see the raging orange glow outside in the hallway that I usually see. I checked the second floor thermostat and it wasn't as cold, but was down to 65 degrees. I checked the first floor and it was down to 64. I came down stairs to adjust the dial. I turned the feed rate up to 5, I turned the temperature from about 72 all the way up (I believe 85 is the max) and went back to bed. I woke up to 67 degrees upstairs and still 64 on the first floor. I'm at a loss here.

The stove is only 4 months old, so still under warranty. I'm just not sure what to do next. It almost sounds like the fan isn't as loud as it usually is when the stove is ramped up and trying to get up to temperature. I apologize for the very lengthy post. I just didn't want to leave out any details. I'm hoping someone has run into this, so I might be able to give my dealer some direction when I call them this morning. I welcome any and all theories.

John
 
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Is the backdraft damper moving freely?
Have you cleaned the fines box in the rear under the hopper?
Are your pellets in good condition?

Fine box is cleaned. Pellets are in perfect condition (stored in garage). Stupid question, but what is the backdraft damper, and where do I see it?
 
Fine box is cleaned. Pellets are in perfect condition (stored in garage). Stupid question, but what is the backdraft damper, and where do I see it?
Behind the stove by the intake port. You will see a round metal damper. Make sure it moves freely. If you have an oak you would need to remove it to get to it.

Have you tried running in room temp
 
Behind the stove by the intake port. You will see a round metal damper. Make sure it moves freely. If you have an oak you would need to remove it to get to it.

Have you tried running in room temp

It's running in room temp. When I switch it to stove temp, nothing changes.
 
You still might have some ash left in the pipe. Remove the ESP and run the brush through the pipe again. Invest in a leaf blower/vac and suck everything out. You might not be getting all the ash that's sitting at the bottom of your clean out , and it runs good for awhile till that port starts to close up from ash.
 
"stove temp" with the igniter switch to manual is the bizarre "esthetic mode" where it tries not to run the distribution blower unless the ESP thinks its getting too hot. If your intent is to use the "temperature controls" you must be in "Room Temp"...then placing the switch into manual will prevent total shutdown and go into maintainance burn. If in "Stove Temp" just put the switch to Auto and it will cruise along at the fixed setting (1-7).
 
"stove temp" with the igniter switch to manual is the bizarre "esthetic mode" where it tries not to run the distribution blower unless the ESP thinks its getting too hot. If your intent is to use the "temperature controls" you must be in "Room Temp"...then placing the switch into manual will prevent total shutdown and go into maintainance burn. If in "Stove Temp" just put the switch to Auto and it will cruise along at the fixed setting (1-7).

That was a mistake. I just corrected it. It's definitely not in stove temp mode.
 
gotcha, now, you say if you put it to Stove Temp, and turn the dial to 7 nothing changes? No increase in flame over the next few minutes?
 
Did your dealer check the readings of the room temp probe with the DDM? I guess that can't be the issue as you say the stove does it in stove temp as well.

Bad board?
 
Igniter area (inside burn pot) is clean? Hopper lid gasket is good and closed properly? Does the combustion motor sound "normal"? Is your burn pot full of pellets? Really seems like an air pressure issue. But if the stove is properly calling for heat then it should be throwing up all over itself to make hit required ESP temps.
 
gotcha, now, you say if you put it to Stove Temp, and turn the dial to 7 nothing changes? No increase in flame over the next few minutes?

That is correct. It's staying steady, regardless of what I do with the dial. Oddly enough, it's reached 66 degrees on the first floor, but I still have this thing wide open (cranked up to 85 degrees).
 
When I first read everything was back to normal after you cleaned the vent, I figured that's what it was. The fact it started acting up again for no apparent reason makes me lean strongly towards an electronic issue.
 
Did your dealer check the readings of the room temp probe with the DDM? I guess that can't be the issue as you say the stove does it in stove temp as well.

Bad board?

If the DDM is the Harman Diagnostic computer, I'll have to assume yes. Honestly, I didn't ask specifically what he was doing. He simply said that he was running through a series of tests to ensure that everything was working properly.
 
Igniter area (inside burn pot) is clean? Hopper lid gasket is good and closed properly? Does the combustion motor sound "normal"? Is your burn pot full of pellets? Really seems like an air pressure issue. But if the stove is properly calling for heat then it should be throwing up all over itself to make hit required ESP temps.

Yes...igniter area is clean. Even the dealer looked in there and got what little was in there out. I just cleaned the stove a week ago, and always clean that out and bang on the burn pot to loosen all the ash under there. I'm no mechanic or engineer, but I feel as though it's an air issue. I will say that the motor definitely doesn't sound "normal" to me. It's not making any funky noises, but it just seems more quiet than usual, to me. Especially given that everything is cranked all the way up. The hopper lid is closed and locked, but I've never had a gasket on this stove, so I'm not sure the newer P68's even have a hopper gasket. I certainly don't see one. I could hypothesize that might be the issue, but again, this thing has been humming along fine through ridiculously cold temperatures and I've never seen a gasket around the hopper. It seems to close air tight when you lock the knob down.
 
Look around the perimeter of the underside of the hopper lid. Black rubber gasket? ....I hope!
 
Look around the perimeter of the underside of the hopper lid. Black rubber gasket?

Okay...my bad. Yes, the gasket is in fact there and intact. It looks perfectly normal to my untrained eye.
 
Looks like you're gonna have to wait to hear from your dealer again, and hopefully he'll bring a board with him just in case. IMO, with a stove that new, you'd have to be burning the crappiest of crappy pellets to have a dirty vent issue already.
 
He mentioned that the fan doesn't seem as loud. Wondering if this is the issue I've been having and someone suggested a thermal overload causing the fan to shut down?
 
As I sit here, the auger even sounds a bit different. Not making any funky noises, and doesn't seem to be as loud as it usually is when forcing pellets into the burn pot. The burn pot is full, so I'm not sure what it all means. Sounds like it's time to call my dealer, once again.
 
As I sit here, the auger even sounds a bit different. Not making any funky noises, and doesn't seem to be as loud as it usually is when forcing pellets into the burn pot. The burn pot is full, so I'm not sure what it all means. Sounds like it's time to call my dealer, once again.

So the burnpot is full and the flame looks ok? Meaning - flame is straight and reaching heat exchangers at the top?
 
So the burnpot is full and the flame looks ok? Meaning - flame is straight and reaching heat exchangers at the top?

Yes. The flame looks normal and burnpot is full.
 
Is the distribution fan running? Do you have that dial set on high?
 
(Sorry I took too long to post and didn't see bdaoust post!)
Is there just something wrong with the distribution fan? If the flame is normal and the pot is filling OK with pellets, maybe it's just that the heat isn't being pushed out. Also, I'm pretty sure I had a situation once where the tech checked my stove with that magic Harman diagnostic tool and it came back normal. Turns out I had a bad control board so those aren't always reliable.
 
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