Pacific Energy Stove Maintenance

[Shadow&Flame]

Has anyone ever seen a video showing the proper maintenance for the PE Alderlea T4/5/6 stoves. There doesn’t seem to be any out there that show removal of the baffle or other internal parts. It would have been nice to see it done. That way you know what to expect and would know to look at the condition of the baffle gasket.

 

[Hogwildz]

To pull the baffle, merely pull the pin at the back, slide the baffle slightly forward, then to one side of the other, tilt the baffle down on the side. lower on an angle, then drop the other side of the baffle off the rail, and pull the baffle out of the stove.
As far as the gasket, plan on replacing it each time you remove the baffle for cleaning each year.
I made my own baffle gasket out of rope gasket and get about 4- 5 years of so out of them.
A kind gentleman on here sent me some welding cloth, which I have not had a chance to try yet.(Thanks btw).
Install is merely reverse of removal.

Before sweeping the stack, cover or stuff a rag into the vertical channel at the back of the stove, that the baffle sets over.
You don't want the crap swept and falling down into the channel.

 

[Shadow&Flame]

To pull the baffle, merely pull the pin at the back, slide the baffle slightly forward, then to one side of the other, tilt the baffle down on the side. lower on an angle, then drop the other side of the baffle off the rail, and pull the baffle out of the stove.
As far as the gasket, plan on replacing it each time you remove the baffle for cleaning each year.
I made my own baffle gasket out of rope gasket and get about 4- 5 years of so out of them.
A kind gentleman on here sent me some welding cloth, which I have not had a chance to try yet.(Thanks btw).
Install is merely reverse of removal.

Before sweeping the stack, cover or stuff a rag into the vertical channel at the back of the stove, that the baffle sets over.
You don't want the crap swept and falling down into the channel.

Thanks for the info. I should have made myself more clear thou. I have taken my Baffle out twice now and replaced the gasket once
(It was in good condition the first time). I was just seeing how many people had questions about this stove and baffle set up that I
thought it would be nice to have a vid on it. A picture is worth 1k ya know. Good on ya for making your own gasket...why PE cant
make one better than the one they offer is beyond me.

Thanks again

 

[Hogwildz]

Although it appears they changed the baffle gasket design with the new models, I will try and remember to take pics or make a vid and post when I clean this fall.

 

[Shadow&Flame]

Although it appears they changed the baffle gasket design with the new models, I will try and remember to take pics or make a vid and post when I clean this fall.

Really...I wonder if I got the new style or old when I got mine this year. Looked the same as the one I took out thou...

 

[Dave A.]

The new baffle gasket is about 22" long, runs the full width of the stove interior (if not wider and might need to be cut down) vs the old style about 5 - 6" or so.

Had ordered a few extra gaskets with my stove order and they first sent the old series A gaskets which didn't match the one on the stove. Took awhile (couple months) for my dealer to finally get me the correct ones -- haven't used any yet (want to clean first and reinstall the insert before I put a new one in).

BTW, the new style is just as flimsy and easy to tear around the channel opening as the old ones.

 

[oldspark]

22 inches long? Having a hard time picturing that in my head.

 

[Shadow&Flame]

The new baffle gasket is about 22" long, runs the full width of the stove interior (if not wider and might need to be cut down) vs the old style about 5 - 6" or so.

Had ordered a few extra gaskets with my stove order and they first sent the old series A gaskets which didn't match the one on the stove. Took awhile (couple months) for my dealer to finally get me the correct ones -- haven't used any yet (want to clean first and reinstall the insert before I put a new one in).

BTW, the new style is just as flimsy and easy to tear around the channel opening as the old ones.

I most assuredly got the older style then...figured they would change the materials, but not the size. It goes all the way across the back of the baffle?
22" would be way longer than the distance across the stove thou... Thanks for the info.

 

[Dave A.]

Yeah, they are almost unwieldy in length. The door opening is about 19" and inside without the firebrick it looks about 22". Haven't actually compared the new ones (measured at 22") with the one inside the stove which sits on the steel shelf that supports the baffle in the back and goes over/around the channel tube supplying secondary air to the baffle. The new ones shipped might need to be trimmed or folded a bit. (Don't really want to take the baffle out at this point to compare).

As far as seeing what the b series gaskets look like, look at the parts explosion in the summit insert manual on page 21, it's pictured there as item 26 below item 31. The part is identified on page 16 as sumb.baffgask. OTOH, the summit classic (freestanding stove) manual shows the gasket as item 14 in the parts explosion and identifies it as part no. sumb.31396 (which is what I ordered since I didn't notice it on page 16 in the insert manual at the time -- summit classic and summit insert have the same firebox to my knowledge so many parts should be interchangeable even though the manuals are different.)

But the T5 is based on the Super, iirc. And I don't know about that one in terms of changes to a series b or not -- you'd have to reference the manuals on the PE site. I looked at the super when I went to the dealer before purchase and it isn't as wide as the summit. Not a square firebox as I recall, but rather much deeper than wide. (though the summit is a bit deeper than wide but the super seemed even more so.)

Series b changes for the summit reportedly made changes to the EBT system as one of the more significant changes. My understanding is the super/T5 does not have EBT, so there is not the necessity that the super has gone to a series b.

 

[Shadow&Flame]

Yeah, they are almost unwieldy in length. The door opening is about 19" and inside without the firebrick it looks about 22". Haven't actually compared the new ones (measured at 22") with the one inside the stove which sits on the steel shelf that supports the baffle in the back and goes over/around the channel tube supplying secondary air to the baffle. The new ones shipped might need to be trimmed or folded a bit. (Don't really want to take the baffle out at this point to compare).

As far as seeing what the b series gaskets look like, look at the parts explosion in the summit insert manual on page 21, it's pictured there as item 26 below item 31. The part is identified on page 16 as sumb.baffgask. OTOH, the summit classic (freestanding stove) manual shows the gasket as item 14 in the parts explosion and identifies it as part no. sumb.31396 (which is what I ordered since I didn't notice it on page 16 in the insert manual at the time -- summit classic and summit insert have the same firebox to my knowledge so many parts should be interchangeable even though the manuals are different.)

But the T5 is based on the Super, iirc. And I don't know about that one in terms of changes to a series b or not -- you'd have to reference the manuals on the PE site. I looked at the super when I went to the dealer before purchase and it isn't as wide as the summit. Not a square firebox as I recall, but rather much deeper than wide. (though the summit is a bit deeper than wide but the super seemed even more so.)

Series b changes for the summit reportedly made changes to the EBT system as one of the more significant changes. My understanding is the super/T5 does not have EBT, so there is not the necessity that the super has gone to a series b.

Sorry it took so long... Thanks for the info...I wonder if there is going to be a difference between the baffle gasket styles with the bigger stoves.
I wasn't paying attention before...you have the summit and that is the larger style than mine so it would be longer.

I have enough older baffles to last me a bit...figured I better order some spares just in case.

Thanks again for the info.

 

[oldspark]

Baffle gasket on the summint is 2 1/4 x 4 inches.

 

[Sprinter]

I can't imagine what a full length gasket would accomplish. Seems like all you need to do is seal off the secondary air supply port.

FWIW, I just did the Hogwildz thing and made a gasket out of this rope: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000H5SXOI/ref=oh_details_o02_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 which worked very nicely and squashed down enough to replace the pin. Easy to tie the ends together with thin steel wire.

Edit: This is for the Super 27. The other PE models will probably differ other than the T5 which should be the same.

 

[oldspark]

I can't imagine what a full length gasket would accomplish. Seems like all you need to do is seal off the secondary air supply port.

FWIW, I just did the Hogwildz thing and made a gasket out of this rope: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000H5SXOI/ref=oh_details_o02_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 which worked very nicely and squashed down enough to replace the pin. Easy to tie the ends together with thin steel wire.

Edit: This is for the Super 27. The other PE models will probably differ other than the T5 which should be the same.

I wish they could come up with a picture because like you I dont see what it would do, the baffle hole is just a small hole, 1 1/2 x 3 inches (inside of gasket) so what purpose is a 22 inch gasket?

 

[Shadow&Flame]

I wish they could come up with a picture because like you I dont see what it would do, the baffle hole is just a small hole, 1 1/2 x 3 inches (inside of gasket) so what purpose is a 22 inch gasket?

I don't really know what the larger size would help. I just figured they would come up with a better material. My gasket is 2 1/16" X 4" with
a 1" X 2" hole in it.

 

[Dave A.]

Best way to describe what this longer gasket does is that the 22" gasket separates the metal to metal contact of the baffle with the 2" shelf on the back wall of the firebox for it's full length.

I don't know if there were any changes in the series b in terms of the configuration of the contact points between the baffle and that rear shelf since I never saw the inside of the firebox of a series a summit. But the new gasket design does make sense in terms of the contact points in the series b where there is full contact of metal to metal along the 22".

The amount of time and focus on this point of the gasket change and difference does seem a little excessive since it's not likely all that important in terms of the stove's functionality. I only wanted to follow up on the specifics of the change in the gasket, and the difficulty I encountered in trying order some extra gaskets to have on hand, where the distributor sent the old series a gaskets in error (I knew they were wrong because they didn't match the one that was shipped in my new stove).

As far as Hogz's gasket mod using rope gasket, I also intend to try that when I replace my gasket (in fact I already picked up some extra rope gasket for it), since it does seem to be a more durable solution where you otherwise likely have to replace the gasket each time you remove and reinstall the baffle for cleaning or inspection since the old mfr gasket will probably tear in the process.

 

[oldspark]

I made one from the welding blanket sent to me by a member, will be removing the baffle here shortly so I will be able to see how it held up, the stocke ones are crap.