Pacific Energy Summit Overdraft

[10-cc]

Hi everyone,

Yes I am a new member but an old guess.

I did search about overdraft problems and I have found many related answer (including the Florida Bangalow issue) that could lead me to a solution to my overdraft problem. Her is my setup:

30' Security 2100 chimney of 8" running through the house

Pacific Energy Summit (10 years old) the buffle is not in top shape as the is a little carck on it and it is bent from forcing wood into the firebox while it was hot.

6" flue connector to a 14" strait 6" into a 45 degree angle (6") into a 3' of 6" all single walled, into an adaptor 6" to 8" , then again a 45 degree of 8" into the prefab Security 2100.

Basically I have to close the air inlet to a minimum as otherwise I have an overdraft (700 degrees at the pipe 18" from the stove top, magnetic)

My stove shop recommended me to line the entire 30'with a stainless liner of 6" without an isolation.

I intend to first make sure all possible air leaks are properly sealed (door and pipe joints) also I notice that the Extended Burn Technology box rivets are loose and I intend to seal the box with stove cement or silicone.

Note that this stove worked with no overdraft issue in the previous location as it was connected to a 6" prefab all the way.

I still do not know for sure is the increase pipe diameter from 6"to 8" causes the overdraft situation.


I will appreciate any help or advice from anyone.

Thanks,

Henri.

 

[Jimbob]

Good call on the EBT rivets, if they're loose it can cause an overfire. Also check that the flap in the EBT moves freely, and doesn't stick open.
I would do all the usual air leak checks first before spending $$$ on a liner. Chimney LENGTH probably has more of an effect on draft than diameter. You likely won't notice a huge improvement with the new liner.

If no other leaks are found, and the stove still can't be turned down far enough you can modify it without doing any permanant damage to it:

Order an air shutter ass'y part # summ.3231 from your local PE dealer.
Locate the area on the shutter where it contacts the minimum stop.
File away some of the shutter, allowing it to close more than it otherwise would.
Install shutter and verify that it closes more than before.

If it doesn't give you satisfactory results, you can always re-install the original.
One of the articles on F.B.S. mentions modifying the air inlet.
Hope this helps.

 

[10-cc]

Thank jimbob for the tip on filing the shutterm. In fact I think it is easier to fil the stopper itself, I don' t see a problem with that?

Thanks again
Henri.

 

[10-cc]

I grinded the stopper of the shutter for about 3/16" this permitted to shut the inlet almost completely, still like 1/4" of halfmoon opening remaining (before I grinded it was more like 1/2" )

Problem now is the after an all night burn, seems the combustion did not completed, the back of the firebox is full of unburned coals so I have to move them to the front.

Wondering if my buffle is not seated to the tube properly because it is bent might affect the overall stove performance.

Thanks.

 

[snowtime]

I would be more inclined to put a damper in the pipe just above the stove rather than modify my stove. The damper will give you more control of draft without ruining burn.

 

[10-cc]

It is just that a damper will need manual adjustement for varying weather conditions, unless I install a barometric one that will suck some valuble heat from the house.

Thanx I will dfenetly consider it.

 

[snowtime]

Dampers are easy especially if you are just slowing draft down to safe levels. I think you could have 2 settings for the whole year. First setting for shoulder season [if you need it then] and then main setting for cold or regular burn season. You are trying to just slow draft here not extend burn which would mean more adjustments. I am against barometric on wood stoves. Just get a regular one.

 

[10-cc]

Thanks a lot, I will try it since it easly available and simple to install.

How far from the top of the stove top should I place it?

 

[Hogwildz]

Thanks a lot, I will try it since it easly available and simple to install.

How far from the top of the stove top should I place it?

Duravent makes on that built into the stove adapter.

 

[DELETE ME PLEASE]

You've probably already done this, but we had an awful PE Summit Stand-Alone with a door that failed the dollar-bill test NEW FROM THE FACTORY. Two gaskets later (needs 7/8" per PE), the dealer still couldn't get all four sides to pass the test (the handle side never sealed). He said it didn't matter much, because all of the display models in his showroom failed, too. But it DOES matter! As he closed the gap on each side (one side the first time, two more sides the second time), a multitude of problems went away: smell of smoke in the room, a constant whistle (like a tea-kettle just about to boil), fire much easier to actually control, longer burn times, et al. (As you know, PE Summit doors aren't adjustable, so the gasket matters that much more.) Fortunately, all of the great posters on hearth.com taught us a lot of things, and the dollar-bill test was one of them. So, I'm really just repeating what I learned here. Hope this helps.

Janis

 

[Todd]

I have heard this from many PE owners. Most say the door doesn't pass the test near the hinges, but I thought they fixed this problem by adjusting the door somehow? Maybe that extra air helps them pass the EPA test. %-P

 

[Hogwildz]

You've probably already done this, but we had an awful PE Summit Stand-Alone with a door that failed the dollar-bill test NEW FROM THE FACTORY. Two gaskets later (needs 7/8" per PE), the dealer still couldn't get all four sides to pass the test (the handle side never sealed). He said it didn't matter much, because all of the display models in his showroom failed, too. But it DOES matter! As he closed the gap on each side (one side the first time, two more sides the second time), a multitude of problems went away: smell of smoke in the room, a constant whistle (like a tea-kettle just about to boil), fire much easier to actually control, longer burn times, et al. (As you know, PE Summit doors aren't adjustable, so the gasket matters that much more.) Fortunately, all of the great posters on hearth.com taught us a lot of things, and the dollar-bill test was one of them. So, I'm really just repeating what I learned here. Hope this helps.

Janis

I don't know what your agenda is to come here and 4 of your 6 total posts are to bash PE.
I have a feeling your from Elks site, if so go back to your master and kiss up to him, and stay out of here.
Its becoming obvious, you either never owned a Summit, or you should not be burning all together.
ALL PE's doors are adjustable. Mine did not come adjusted from factory as door is not installed when shipped. As most are the case.
How long ago did you supposedly own your PE stoves?
PE uses a high density gasket which does NOT compress like a soft density gasket. The dollar bill test only needs some slight resistance. No need to be as tight doing the test as it would be with low density gasket.
My Summit will actually suck the door closed if its anywhere from an inch away or closer.

"Fortunately, all of the great posters on hearth.com taught us a lot of things, and the dollar-bill test was one of them. So, I'm really just repeating what I learned here. Hope this helps."
With 6 whole posts, again i think 4 of which are obviously an agenda negatively bashing PE products, and you now supposedly have a Mansfield, just when did you so graciously learn from the folks hear about the dollar test and all the other "good things" they have taught you? Especially since just joining today?

Your busted A-hole, take you shat stirring elsewhere.
What a loser.
Mods please take note of this troll and prepare for the shat storm to follow.

 

[begreen]

With 13 indoor cats, maybe a cat stove is in order?

If you have helpful info to post, it's welcome. If here just to bash, sorry, wrong place.

 

[Todd]

You've probably already done this, but we had an awful PE Summit Stand-Alone with a door that failed the dollar-bill test NEW FROM THE FACTORY. Two gaskets later (needs 7/8" per PE), the dealer still couldn't get all four sides to pass the test (the handle side never sealed). He said it didn't matter much, because all of the display models in his showroom failed, too. But it DOES matter! As he closed the gap on each side (one side the first time, two more sides the second time), a multitude of problems went away: smell of smoke in the room, a constant whistle (like a tea-kettle just about to boil), fire much easier to actually control, longer burn times, et al. (As you know, PE Summit doors aren't adjustable, so the gasket matters that much more.) Fortunately, all of the great posters on hearth.com taught us a lot of things, and the dollar-bill test was one of them. So, I'm really just repeating what I learned here. Hope this helps.

Janis

I don't know what your agenda is to come here and 4 of your 6 total posts are to bash PE.
I have a feeling your from Elks site, if so go back to your master and kiss up to him, and stay out of here.
Its becoming obvious, you either never owned a Summit, or you should not be burning all together.
ALL PE's doors are adjustable. Mine did not come adjusted from factory as door is not installed when shipped. As most are the case.
How long ago did you supposedly own your PE stoves?
PE uses a high density gasket which does NOT compress like a soft density gasket. The dollar bill test only needs some slight resistance. No need to be as tight doing the test as it would be with low density gasket.
My Summit will actually suck the door closed if its anywhere from an inch away or closer.

"Fortunately, all of the great posters on hearth.com taught us a lot of things, and the dollar-bill test was one of them. So, I'm really just repeating what I learned here. Hope this helps."
With 6 whole posts, again i think 4 of which are obviously an agenda negatively bashing PE products, and you now supposedly have a Mansfield, just when did you so graciously learn from the folks hear about the dollar test and all the other "good things" they have taught you? Especially since just joining today?

Your busted A-hole, take you shat stirring elsewhere.
What a loser.
Mods please take note of this troll and prepare for the shat storm to follow.

Jeez Hog, don't you think your over reacting just a tad?

 

[Hogwildz]

You've probably already done this, but we had an awful PE Summit Stand-Alone with a door that failed the dollar-bill test NEW FROM THE FACTORY. Two gaskets later (needs 7/8" per PE), the dealer still couldn't get all four sides to pass the test (the handle side never sealed). He said it didn't matter much, because all of the display models in his showroom failed, too. But it DOES matter! As he closed the gap on each side (one side the first time, two more sides the second time), a multitude of problems went away: smell of smoke in the room, a constant whistle (like a tea-kettle just about to boil), fire much easier to actually control, longer burn times, et al. (As you know, PE Summit doors aren't adjustable, so the gasket matters that much more.) Fortunately, all of the great posters on hearth.com taught us a lot of things, and the dollar-bill test was one of them. So, I'm really just repeating what I learned here. Hope this helps.

Janis

I don't know what your agenda is to come here and 4 of your 6 total posts are to bash PE.
I have a feeling your from Elks site, if so go back to your master and kiss up to him, and stay out of here.
Its becoming obvious, you either never owned a Summit, or you should not be burning all together.
ALL PE's doors are adjustable. Mine did not come adjusted from factory as door is not installed when shipped. As most are the case.
How long ago did you supposedly own your PE stoves?
PE uses a high density gasket which does NOT compress like a soft density gasket. The dollar bill test only needs some slight resistance. No need to be as tight doing the test as it would be with low density gasket.
My Summit will actually suck the door closed if its anywhere from an inch away or closer.

"Fortunately, all of the great posters on hearth.com taught us a lot of things, and the dollar-bill test was one of them. So, I'm really just repeating what I learned here. Hope this helps."
With 6 whole posts, again i think 4 of which are obviously an agenda negatively bashing PE products, and you now supposedly have a Mansfield, just when did you so graciously learn from the folks hear about the dollar test and all the other "good things" they have taught you? Especially since just joining today?

Your busted A-hole, take you shat stirring elsewhere.
What a loser.
Mods please take note of this troll and prepare for the shat storm to follow.

Jeez Hog, don't you think your over reacting just a tad?

Nope, call em as I see em. How has someone learned oh so much from this forum yet only joined just today?
I have a keen BS detector. And its ringing off the hook.

 

[Todd]

You've probably already done this, but we had an awful PE Summit Stand-Alone with a door that failed the dollar-bill test NEW FROM THE FACTORY. Two gaskets later (needs 7/8" per PE), the dealer still couldn't get all four sides to pass the test (the handle side never sealed). He said it didn't matter much, because all of the display models in his showroom failed, too. But it DOES matter! As he closed the gap on each side (one side the first time, two more sides the second time), a multitude of problems went away: smell of smoke in the room, a constant whistle (like a tea-kettle just about to boil), fire much easier to actually control, longer burn times, et al. (As you know, PE Summit doors aren't adjustable, so the gasket matters that much more.) Fortunately, all of the great posters on hearth.com taught us a lot of things, and the dollar-bill test was one of them. So, I'm really just repeating what I learned here. Hope this helps.

Janis

I don't know what your agenda is to come here and 4 of your 6 total posts are to bash PE.
I have a feeling your from Elks site, if so go back to your master and kiss up to him, and stay out of here.
Its becoming obvious, you either never owned a Summit, or you should not be burning all together.
ALL PE's doors are adjustable. Mine did not come adjusted from factory as door is not installed when shipped. As most are the case.
How long ago did you supposedly own your PE stoves?
PE uses a high density gasket which does NOT compress like a soft density gasket. The dollar bill test only needs some slight resistance. No need to be as tight doing the test as it would be with low density gasket.
My Summit will actually suck the door closed if its anywhere from an inch away or closer.

"Fortunately, all of the great posters on hearth.com taught us a lot of things, and the dollar-bill test was one of them. So, I'm really just repeating what I learned here. Hope this helps."
With 6 whole posts, again i think 4 of which are obviously an agenda negatively bashing PE products, and you now supposedly have a Mansfield, just when did you so graciously learn from the folks hear about the dollar test and all the other "good things" they have taught you? Especially since just joining today?

Your busted A-hole, take you shat stirring elsewhere.
What a loser.
Mods please take note of this troll and prepare for the shat storm to follow.

Jeez Hog, don't you think your over reacting just a tad?

Nope, call em as I see em. How has someone learned oh so much from this forum yet only joined just today?
I have a keen BS detector. And its ringing off the hook.

Yeah, you could be right, I read the other posts, but it could also just be a woman scorn?

 

[DELETE ME PLEASE]

You don't have to join to read posts. I've been reading for months, now. We've been burning wood for five months, and I thought that you had the nicest forum I'd ever seen. I don't know what you're talking about at all, but I won't bother anyone on here again. Thanks for the encouragement. Hope the next newbie finds a nicer welcome.

 

[Jimbob]

Hope the next newbie finds a nicer welcome.

I'm sure they will. :lol:

 

[Hogwildz]

Most newbs, don't come in a forum and start bashing a certain stove right off the batt.
And if your going to attempt to do so, get your facts straight. You stated some WRONG facts about the Super 27 & the Summit. Which makes me believe you owned neither.
If I am wrong, time will tell, and I can admit being wrong and will have no problem doing so, till then, your full of red flags in my book.
To have a problem with a certain stove, and look for answers, or offer advice is one thing. But to hit every topic about one stove and continually bash it or the manufacturer, there is an agenda there somewhere.
Not the best way to gain a warm reception in a forum. Most folks introduce themselves prior to slinging mud.

 

[mike1234]

"Jeez Hog, don’t you think your over reacting just a tad?"

I agree, I think if you are "calling them like you see them," you need to go to the eye doc.

Hope the guy gets some help someplace else, is there a recovery forum for those attacked on hearth.com?

 

[Jimbob]

Hope the guy gets some help someplace else, is there a recovery forum for those attacked on hearth.com?

Being that his name is Janis, I assume he's used to conflict. :lol:
Kind like that old Johnny Cash song.

Anyway, I think "DELETE ME PLEASE" is a girl

 

[Hogwildz]

"Jeez Hog, don’t you think your over reacting just a tad?"

I agree, I think if you are "calling them like you see them," you need to go to the eye doc.

Hope the guy gets some help someplace else, is there a recovery forum for those attacked on hearth.com?

The "guy" which actually posted the name Janis (assuming thats a woman and the posters name, prolly not)
wasn't looking for help or asking for any help, they were merely bashing their first several posts out of the gate.
I been here long enough, and had the displeasure of seeing & dealing with enough folks to spot very well a troll.
Nothing wrong with my sight, maybe you need to go look for that recovery forum.
The new name is " Delete me please", doesn't sound like someone looking for anything positive.
They can just as easily delete him/herself.
Been here a few years now, watchem come & watchem go.

 

[Hogwildz]

Hope the guy gets some help someplace else, is there a recovery forum for those attacked on hearth.com?

Being that his name is Janis, I assume he's used to conflict. :lol:
Kind like that old Johnny Cash song.

Anyway, I think "DELETE ME PLEASE" is a girl

Maybe a "Pat"

 

[mike1234]

OK, so the guy is a girl, I had a few beers, we've all made that mistake haven't we??
But, that makes it even worse that SHE was beaten down for asking some questions and having a bad experience with the stove you are in love with. No one can have a bad experience just because yours has been great? Maybe she had a crappy installer, or had bad wood, or....
And yes, I am looking for a recovery forum for those who defended a guy who was really a girl from people with PE Summits. I googled it, but only found porn with girls with guy parts or guys with girl parts .... can't really tell.

 

[10-cc]

Hi Hogwildz,

I wonder HOW can one adjust the door to the gasket on a Summit. On the T6 I know you can adjust it as the hinges are placed on a metal strip so there are screws that permit sliding. But on the Summit (at least the one I own) the hinges are fixed (are welded to the body of the stove).

Thanks for any clarifications.

TO overcome the overdraft on my summit I had to modify the shutter, I grinded the stopper so the inlet is now smaller. Note that I did it after assuring that the door gasket was sealing properly, also I had to seal the EBT box as the rivets on it were loos.