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pallets and caulk

Post in 'The Hearth Room - Wood Stoves and Fireplaces' started by fishinAK, Sep 11, 2006.

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  1. fishinAK

    fishinAK New Member

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    hey guys,
    Any opinions on burning pallets for kindling?

    And on another note...I noticed a couple drips of h2o very very slowly running down the interior 2 foot of class a chimney last nite durning a rain. So I checked up above and it seems the caulk that was around the storm collar is cracked, broken, and missing. so I definatly need to recaulk. Is there a special caulk I need to use for this. I know it shouldnt get too hot. but it probly at least gets warm rite?
    Thanks guys.

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  2. MountainStoveGuy

    MountainStoveGuy Minister of Fire

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    most of my installers use 500*RTV made by rutland, its just a high temp silicon sealent.

    500° RTV HIGH HEAT SILICONE SEALANT - Item # 76

    Rutland 500° RTV High Heat Silicone Sealant, a specially formulatedRTV silicone combining flexibility with high heat resistance, forms a toughrubbery seal, and keeps its flexibility even at temperatures of 450°Fcontinuously, or 500°F intermittantly.
    Special Note: It has been brought to our attention that somebuilding codes in North and South Carolina require a high-heat sealant aroundsome electrical outlets. Check your local building codes. Suggested usesinclude sealing around insulated chimney caps and storm collars, fireplaceinserts, gas stoves and glass fireplace screens. Can be used for making solarpanel repairs and some automotive seals. May be used anywhere a black ortranslucent permanent elastic seal is needed. Will adhere to glass, metal,most plastics, fiberglass, aluminum, wood, brick and slate. Acetoxy cure.

    Meets ASTM C92086. Meets or exceed Fed. Spec. TT-S-001543A, TT-S001543A,TT-S-00230C, A-A-272, Type IV, C.G.S.B. 19 GP-9B and ASTM C 920-86.
  3. Greg123

    Greg123 New Member

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    I use pallets all the time for kindling. Just watch the stove temp, as to much of it will send your stove temp very high and fast.
  4. BrotherBart

    BrotherBart Hearth.com LLC Mid-Atlantic Division Staff Member

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    Standard run of the mill 100% silicone building caulk is good for 400 degrees and costs half of what the specialty stuff does.

    The service temps are listed on the tubes.
  5. MountainStoveGuy

    MountainStoveGuy Minister of Fire

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    It seems like the regular stuff didnt hold up on his collar. A small tube of this stuff is 4 bucks. Is there any chance that the rutland stuff is different then regualr silicon? i have no idea.
  6. BrotherBart

    BrotherBart Hearth.com LLC Mid-Atlantic Division Staff Member

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    He said his caulk was "cracked, broken and missing". That ain't silicone of any kind. That is plain old acrylic caulk. Unless somebody else has seen 100% silicone crack. I sure haven't. Under high enough temp I could see it seperating but not cracking. I can't help but believe that the chimney componets that the plate is connected to are such a heat sink that the caulk has to stay relatively cool. Me and that nifty laser thermo will be finding out for sure here in a month or two.
  7. MountainStoveGuy

    MountainStoveGuy Minister of Fire

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    I would agree BB, i bet it stays cool too. I can imagine it would even get warm unless there was a chimney fire. Im not the silicon expert by a long shot, i just know my installers buy the fancy stuff. im shure regular silicon caulk would be just fine, but i cant recommend something that i dont know. Thanks for the heads up BB!
  8. BrotherBart

    BrotherBart Hearth.com LLC Mid-Atlantic Division Staff Member

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    In November I will report on how ACE hardware 100% silicone on sale for a buck ninety-nine a tube holds up on two flues.

    I was on the way to buy Rutland at Lowes ten miles away and had a flat tire in front of the ACE store a mile from here soooo...
  9. MountainStoveGuy

    MountainStoveGuy Minister of Fire

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    I bet you will find that is just fine. I guess i would change my post to say, if its convinient, and close, buy the rutland stuff for 4 bucks, because its a guarenteed match for the job. You dont do it very often and 2 bucks shoulndt break the bank. On the otherhand, if you had to drive all over town to find it that would be silly, just go to the closest place and buy some silicon. :)
  10. fishinAK

    fishinAK New Member

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    Ok great thanks guys. Yet another little job to add to the list. How about the pallets though. Safe to burn or not. I have heard that some are treated with pesticides and such, anyone know if this is true? Thanks alot guys
  11. Rhone

    Rhone Minister of Fire

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    I have a tip. I just had to remove my storm collar etc. and found a trick my installers did.

    First, make sure you remove all the old stuff. Silicone can adhere to many things, but it doesn't adhere to itself. If you need to recaulk a silicone caulked item, you need to remove the silicone that's currently there first and start fresh. I'm with the others though, I'm sure you don't have silicone up there, but I'd clean out what you have there anyway.

    With the storm collar etc. here's the trick. You want to caulk it as if you're trying to glue the items together. Don't put your storm collar on top of your top plate, and then silicone around the joint. Silicone under the storm collar and push it down onto the top plate so it oozes out from underneath. That will "glue" the two pieces together, and protect the silicone from the elements & weather netting you a tight, leak proof, long lasting bond. Then, what oozes out from underneath smooth over the storm collar edge. Your top plate may be in a similar situation, it's best to put the silicone directly on your chimey crown and press the top plate down onto it so once again it oozes out from underneath. The top of your storm collar where you liner runs through it, you can only caulk that joint.

    Having had to pull mine apart recently, the stuff was like superglue because they'd done that, had to use a flat bar to pry it off. I personally recommend the high temp silicone, silicone doesn't adhere to itself and such a pain to remove, if the non-high temp silicone doesn't work it will be a lot of work to clean everything off so you can try again with higher temp stuff. The stickers on my liner hadn't browned near the top so one is probably fine with the 400F standard but I wouldn't risk the amount of work if it doesn't.
  12. wg_bent

    wg_bent Minister of Fire

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    All pure silicone is actually rated for the same temp. Beyond about 800 degrees it vaporizes.
  13. MountainStoveGuy

    MountainStoveGuy Minister of Fire

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    We sell two products that contain silicone, rutland 500* and rutland 600*. What would make the red 600* more heat resistant? is there more silicon in the 600* then the 500*? i gues these are not pure silicone....
    I dont see anyting wrong with burning pallet material, as long as you watch the temp very close during the break in process.
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