PB 105, failed to restart, no error code

[Bill Bennion]

I have a PB 105, and recently replaced the board and ignighter and still getting failed restarts with no error code. Has anyone else had this problem? Could it be a bad temp. sensor, possibly getting stuck and not showing the drop in temperature? If I restart, it will light and work for a while. It just happens every now and then. I have also had it run out of pellets and the same thing happens, no error lights. Any ideas?

 

[Former Farmer]

Is the ESP probe in your exhaust vent clean? Seems when I have problems with a no blink code upon running out of fuel, probe needs to be cleaned.

 

[Bill Bennion]

I just cleaned the entire boiler including the ESP probe.

 

[AndrewChurchill]

What position are the first 3 dips set? When I received my boiler all three of the switches were in the up position and I had a hard time with it lighting consistently. I recently put the first two switches into the down position and my PB has been lightly perfectly.

 

[Bill Bennion]

All three are in the down position, I have black wires on ESP, which makes #3 in down also.

 

[AndrewChurchill]

What does the color difference signify?

 

[wil lanfear]

I'm guessing that the ESP is failing but you should be seeing the status light blinking 3 times, this has happened to me, the ESP will need to be replaced. I found when using the cartridge style ignition (igniter in the burnpot) dip switch # 1 off, # 2 off, # 3 on will give the best results for quick ignition with the least amount of smoke. On position is up.

EDIT: My boiler has black wires to the ESP. With all 3 dip switches in the off (down) position, this is the program default settings, excessive amount of pellets enter the burnpot for ignition.

 

[summit]

I had a similar issue w/ a 105 installed in a 3 unit apt building. It would fail every day around 5:30 - 6:00 pm.
What was happening was, every one would get home from work, turn up the heat, take a shower, whatever, all at the same time. The water usage was running so much cold water back thru the system all at once, it could not achieve a proper stack temp to verify the fire was at proper temp, because all the start up heat was going right to the big all of a sudden load on the H20 jacket. After manualy feeding the burnpot w/ about 3 lbs of pellets, getting a fire going, and then running it onto test over and over for @ 15 minutes (to make the auger turn), I got a sufficient esp temp, then left the switch for the ignitor set to manual: In the manual mode, it HAS to maintain a specific esp temp at all times, thus it would be already warm in the system, and was not subject to a cold start leeching all the start up heat off the fire.

Churchill: the black probe is the older style probe and circuit board setup.. the newer ones use a red wired probe, and the # 5 (i thinx) dipswitch must be set to the on position for the new boards to recieve a red probe, otherwise an instant false reading of 500 + degrees is constantly read otu, and the unit will never run.

 

[Bill Bennion]

The dealer was out about 6 weeks ago and replaced the board with new version and installed new 15 fin igniter

 

[wil lanfear]

The dealer was out about 6 weeks ago and replaced the board with new version and installed new 15 fin igniter

Did your dealer replace these to resolve your issue with failed restarts? I believe the failed restarts is either the ESP needs to be cleaned or replaced. If the dealer installed the new board ( part # 3-20-06143), try the dip switch settings that I've mentioned, I believe you will like the way it ignites using these settings.

 

[Bill Bennion]

I'll try those settings, thanks for the input.