PE Alderlea T5 - Anyone know the hearth requirements (depth / materials, especially) off hand?

[Northeaster1]

PE Alderlea T5 - Anyone know the hearth requirements (depth / materials, especially) off hand?

I read the PE Alderlea T5 manual on-line, and found the requirements for clearances to walls, etc, but found nothing on hearth requirmements.

If someone could fill me in, I would appreciate it!

 

[madison]

page 10- non combustionable floor, no hearth R value required

 

[SKIN052]

Depends on where it is going. It can sit directly on a concrete floor for example. Page 27 on this link, http://www.pacificenergy.net/PDF/manuals/5055.202 T4-5-6-310510(W).pdf

COMBUSTIBLE FLOOR MUST BE PROTECTED BY A CONTINUOUS NON-COMBUSTIBLE MATERIAL EXTENDED TO THE
FRONT, SIDES AND BACK AS INDICATED.

So in Canada for a straight install on a combustible floor, 18'' front, 8" sides and 8" back is what I read.

 

[Northeaster1]

Thanks guys! I will be installing it on a wood floor ( softwood planks). I will likely use tile for ember protection, but may have to put down some cement board under the tiles, to keep the tiles and mortar form cracking from movement.

 

[begreen]

I'd add a layer of plywood under the cement board as a stiffner. Planks can shrink and swell over time and the seasons.

 

[Creature]

Sizing isn't in the manual for some reason (maybe I just couldn't find it) but it is on page 18 of the brochure http://www.pacificenergy.net/PDF/AlderleaCatJuly2010.pdf.

Hopefully that covers the 18" front, 8” sides and 8” back requirement mentioned earlier, but I can't verify that for you since I don't have my T4 installed yet.

Be sure to use the Canadian section, fellow Canuck.

 

[madison]

Depends on where it is going. It can sit directly on a concrete floor for example. Page 27 on this link, http://www.pacificenergy.net/PDF/manuals/5055.202 T4-5-6-310510(W).pdf

COMBUSTIBLE FLOOR MUST BE PROTECTED BY A CONTINUOUS NON-COMBUSTIBLE MATERIAL EXTENDED TO THE
FRONT, SIDES AND BACK AS INDICATED.

So in Canada for a straight install on a combustible floor, 18'' front, 8" sides and 8" back is what I read.

And I would not skimp on the front protection, or your will be moving quickly to sweep up the embers that spit out onto those plank floors.

 

[Northeaster1]

Thanks for all of the help! I will go bigger on all sides, especially in front. Yes, the 100+ year old planks are a bit dry, and would go up mighty quick, I'd say!

 

[bbc557ci]

Depends on where it is going. It can sit directly on a concrete floor for example. Page 27 on this link, http://www.pacificenergy.net/PDF/manuals/5055.202 T4-5-6-310510(W).pdf

COMBUSTIBLE FLOOR MUST BE PROTECTED BY A CONTINUOUS NON-COMBUSTIBLE MATERIAL EXTENDED TO THE
FRONT, SIDES AND BACK AS INDICATED.

So in Canada for a straight install on a combustible floor, 18'' front, 8" sides and 8" back is what I read.

And I would not skimp on the front protection, or your will be moving quickly to sweep up the embers that spit out onto those plank floors.

Great point, madison. Some extra out front would have come in handy for me a couple of years ago, after a log rolled out of my T6

Another thought on the floor... you might want to check with your local codes officer if you're in an area where you need to pull a permit.

 

[summit]

manual specs only show 16" off the front, but it is 18" in most areas. know your local codes, but go bigger than required.. off the sides, especially. Its nice to have easy spaces to sweep up, and spots to set the ash bucket, shovel, poker, gloves, kindling, and other generally messy/ hot stuff. I thin you are ok with putting down cement board and tile, no real r val is req for this install. Put a screw every 6" thru the cement board on a grid into the floor, and that stuff won't shrink, move, buckle or warp, tile will be fine.

 

[madison]

Depends on where it is going. It can sit directly on a concrete floor for example. Page 27 on this link, http://www.pacificenergy.net/PDF/manuals/5055.202 T4-5-6-310510(W).pdf

COMBUSTIBLE FLOOR MUST BE PROTECTED BY A CONTINUOUS NON-COMBUSTIBLE MATERIAL EXTENDED TO THE
FRONT, SIDES AND BACK AS INDICATED.

So in Canada for a straight install on a combustible floor, 18'' front, 8" sides and 8" back is what I read.

And I would not skimp on the front protection, or your will be moving quickly to sweep up the embers that spit out onto those plank floors.

Great point, madison. Some extra out front would have come in handy for me a couple of years ago, after a log rolled out of my T6

Another thought on the floor... you might want to check with your local codes officer if you're in an area where you need to pull a permit.

I hate to ask how a log rolled out of a T6 -- stuffing it E/W for the overnight?

 

[bbc557ci]

Depends on where it is going. It can sit directly on a concrete floor for example. Page 27 on this link, http://www.pacificenergy.net/PDF/manuals/5055.202 T4-5-6-310510(W).pdf

COMBUSTIBLE FLOOR MUST BE PROTECTED BY A CONTINUOUS NON-COMBUSTIBLE MATERIAL EXTENDED TO THE
FRONT, SIDES AND BACK AS INDICATED.

So in Canada for a straight install on a combustible floor, 18'' front, 8" sides and 8" back is what I read.

And I would not skimp on the front protection, or your will be moving quickly to sweep up the embers that spit out onto those plank floors.

Great point, madison. Some extra out front would have come in handy for me a couple of years ago, after a log rolled out of my T6

Another thought on the floor... you might want to check with your local codes officer if you're in an area where you need to pull a permit.

I hate to ask how a log rolled out of a T6 -- stuffing it E/W for the overnight?

My own fault.... While poking and moving things around, what was left of a well burnt split got loose and landed on the raised masonry hearth. But a few hot embers/chunks from the split bounced off the hearth and onto the carpet. After that happened, I cut out an area of carpet in front of the hearth and installed some prefinished oak. Actually came out looking rather nice, so not totally a bad thing. Thing is however, stuff happens and we should prepare ahead for that stuff. Had I extended the hearth when I built it, the problem may have been avoided.

 

[SKIN052]

Great points on the hearth guys. I have made a few of them now and always tend to go bigger than needed. I have used ceramic tile in the past and I try to avoid to a bunch of cuts if necessary. Add as much hearth material as you can, within reason and looks of course. bbc557ci, very nice set up, making soup on the stove?

 

[madison]

Nice picture bbc557ci (??) -- just take that crab boiler off the top of the thing before your nice t6 starts looking like this -> https://www.hearth.com/econtent/index.php/forums/viewreply/692046/ -- The cast iron and steel does not like spills.

 

[bbc557ci]

Nope... no soup SKINO. However during early spring I have been known to tap a couple of Maples out back and start the cooking process on my PE. Then I'd move the sap to the kitchen stove (LP YUCK) for the final cooking. I'd generally get a couple of quarts free that way :cheese:

madison - Real careful with the water, and sap LOL. I'd use a sauce pan and fill the container on the stove about 1/2 full. That would generally get me through a 24 hr. period.

The house my PE is in is up for sale so I'm not burning it this season. I bought a small house on a local river and moved into it in March, and now I'm about 3 miles from the lake. I like that as I'm into boating. But, the "new" house is a bit of a fixer upper so I have lots of work ahead of me. It has a fire place but I haven't fired it up because there are some cracks in the upper flue tiles. Fireplace looks like a Heatillator type unit, but the tag on it says Malleable Iron Works. Model is Monarch. I never heard of the manufacturer. I plan to clean the innards tomorrow and check for rust throughs, failed welds, and or whatever else I can see. If it looks decent I might have a SS liner installed and use it now and then, mostly on week ends. Think I'll start a separate thread on this. Maybe someone will have heard of this critter. Neighbor told me it was installed around mid 80's, so it's not likely to be very efficient.