PE owners look here - possible find

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iceman

Minister of Fire
Nov 18, 2006
2,403
Springfield Ma (western mass)
Recently my stove was sitting pretty at 8-900 and not matter what I did it was just running like that..
Called pe and they said it was ok but 900 n up for long periods aren't good...850 and down fine...
Anyways, checked gaskets and all of our tech stuff and still couldn't get the stove temp down... keep in mind this is an insert and these were readings from the front of the stove...
Thought I was reloading to high ... Reloaded at 250 - same result... didn't take a genius to figure its getting air from somewhere right?.... found it (i think)
EBT!
here is what I think happened...- ash, I hate it. I was moving coals and packing ash with the shovel.. to the point that my ash pack was higher than where the air manifold was! It was 1.5 buckets that I finally took out..
By the ash being so high the coal bed was often higher to the point some would fall out if not careful when opening...I would fit about 7-8 good size pieces but not large .. there wasn't enough space..
My theory is the ash was so thick it insulated the bottom of the stove not allowing ebt to sense the hot fire and close... instead it stayed open all the time .. so even when the air was closed it was still giving the extra air...
I might be totally wrong... but since I removed the ash and kept it at a much lower level the stove is much more easier to keep at more reasonable temps... and doesn't go anywhere near 850+ .
All of my wood is 2+ years and comes inside for a couple days before being burned - so yes its dry
Moral of the story ... clean your ash out within reason and looks like ebt works
 
I had my EBT apart when I found it was dislodged. I put it back in as it should be. The EBT is closed at cold temps, then opens up at higher temps.
There is alot of discussion on that.
 
For some odd reason, i couldn't find the threads from a cpl yrs ago regarding EBT "the definitive thread". In one Begreen actually had a video, it maybe on youtube. But as Hog said, the flap valve cracks opens when the stove body is (really) hot and closed otherwise --- when functioning properly. The ash would insulated this area and IMHO would prevent it from opening --- if it is functioning properly.

My stove operates exactly opposite when full of ash, it does not burn as hot.

Cap yours if you want to rule in/out its effects.
 
I remember reading those threads too.. but couldn't remember which it was - hot/cold made it open..
Now I have no clue why my stove was running so hot...
Maybe draft? I will have to check our temps last month as I believe we were colder than normal.
On that note, last night she was shut down and steady at 650 when I went to bed around 10pm or so, got up about 1230am and saw her going nuclear! Totally surprised as I refilled about 845pm and it appeared so was down climbing when I went to bed ... well she was at 800 with a hell of a secondary show going .. made me nervous but within 20 minutes she started coming down...
My only guess is I filled her up with smaller splits and maybe that was reason combined with outside temp giving me some serious draft.. when I woke up this morning it was -11 so maybe that's it?
 
Tom posted a nice sequence of diagrams that show its operation. It actually has a dual cycle, starts out closed, opens when warm, then closes again when hot, opens again as it cools back down to warm and closes again when cold.

http://www.chimneysweeponline.com/hoebt.htm
 
Those small splits will do that.
You prolly were experiencing first hand, the EBT. Makes no sense to me, but that is how it goes they say.
 
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