PE T-6, no break-in fire required?

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moosetrek

Minister of Fire
Hearth Supporter
Oct 22, 2008
575
CA in the Sierras
Well, we're off to pick up the T6 this morning (finally). Assuming we can successfully move a 580# beast off our truck and into the house, and our 30NC out of the way, we'd like to fire it up. I looked over teh owners manual, and it does not mention a need for a brak-in fire; just to beware the fumes and the curing paint. I'm guessing it's because it's a steel firebox that there are no progresive burns like the Jotuls?

Thanks for any and all advice.
 
moose

I would suggest starting off slow for the first cpl burns. FYI you will get a puddle of moisture from the firebricks for a bit, so put a rag down on the floor under the back if you have a nice floor under it... We had some alarming pops and noises and such as it expands and contracts the first few times. Ours has quieted down, but still at times sounds like a ticking grandfather clock at certain temps, actually rather relaxing to listen to now.

!!! Important, check the door fit prior to lighting the stove for the first time !!! Search the forums or some of my posts, as I would be surprised if it is fit properly. It takes an extra 1/2 hr or so, but remove the hinge side panel and tighten/adjust the hinge... three bolts. I also think these will move or need readjusting with use.

I would also take the time to check all the screws on the back shroud (and fan) etc before placing the stove in its final resting spot, depending on how you are placing the stove it will be easier to check while they are easier to get to now rather than later. Also, as you may have read, check the EBT and the ash chute bolts for dislocation during transit.

My experience has also been negative with putting water on top of the stove.

Baked potatoes are excellent, heavy duty foil, less than 30 mins in the front corners.

And if need be, you can pull the a lot of stuff out of, and off of the stove to reduce the weight for transport. ie side panels, bricks, etc. I hope you have very strong friends or a lift.

The add on fan, makes a huge difference, depending on the size of the house and BTU needs. It is adjustable speed and auto shut off, I think the 97Kb BTU rating has to be with the fan on...
 
I had better luck with the door hinges but my gaskets were a mess. I would recommend having spare gaskets door and glass plus order a door handle kit. Someday you will need it but the big thing is the kit comes with a bunch of washers to adjust the door with. My door washers were on the wrong side and it took a while to figure out that the problem adjusting the door was caused by the location of the washers. As far as first fire I think its wise to have a few small fires in any new stove. Best to let the stove adjust to the new environment slowly. If your stove takes off and does not seam to react to the air being turned off then check those gaskets. About this EBT thing. I need serious heat in my country so I was wary of fooling with it. Well I decided it was worth a test as many have reported on blocking it. I since have noticed the stove is easier to control and still gets hot when I need it so I will be leaving the cover on the EBT hole. After you get through this you will find its a great stove. Hope this helps.
 
Update - got it home, and installed and it's burning. No leaks around the door or gaskets I can find. I figured we'll run the initial break-in fire today, then let it cool so I can connect the OAK tomorrow and check everything then after "settling". Unloading: We backed the pickup truck to the front porch, laid down a couple 2x12s for a ramp, screwed a couple longer 3x3s to the bottom of the pallet, and cut some small wood fence posts into 30" rolllers. 5 of them worked fine, just keep bringing the back to the front, etc. like they did thousands of years ago. Easy shot into the house - no need to remove door/bricks, etc. As I get older I find more time preparing is worth it... :)

Anyhow, really liking the stove but I'll post separately on that later (with pics of course). We'll see how it works on our 720-sq-ft home.

Thanks all for the advice.
 
If thats not a misprint on 720sqft home then I hope your ready to get hot. Put small loads in to keep the temps down.
 
No misprint - althoug with the enclosed porch actually closer to 900 sq ft. However, it's a 1926 house with drafts, poor insulation, 9'ceilings, and we live in WY where the wind always blows. So far it seems to be a lot softer heat than the Englander, which is what we were hoping for. Just hooked up the OAK so we'll see if any changes in the buring come up from that.
 
moosetrek said:
So far it seems to be a lot softer heat than the Englander, which is what we were hoping for.

Thanks for that comment. I was wondering why the change.

Our house is very stable temp wise. Half built into a hill. Well insulated and a 100 sq ft of southern windows.

Our old Kent tile was more of a convective heater. The new generic englander 13 is more radiant. We like that in the house. Can keep cooler areas but get in line of site of the eng & you feel that nice radiant warmth.
 
We liked the warmth of the big Englander, but it would cook us out of the living room when loaded for the night. That and the wife really likes the look of the cast iron shell on the T6... Need I say more? Have a great evening and stay warm-
 
moosetrek said:
....... and the wife really likes the ........... Need I say more?

Similar big influence on the 13 choice...... "new stove, desirably, should be shallow in depth"...... :)
 
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