The owner's manual says the rope gasket is 5/16" medium density on the website, but that sure seems small. Does anyone know if this is correct? I am looking at getting a spare for "just in case". Thanks for the help.
PE T6 Door Gasket size
- Thread starter aussieblake
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thechimneysweep
Minister of Fire
10-cc
Member
Where you guys buy the T6 door gaskets from and what type of glue do you use? The original gasket looks like graphite was added to it (grayish color) and at Home Depot the 5/16"gasket is completely white and no density is mentioned.
My door gasket just failed after two seasons.
Thanks in advance.
My door gasket just failed after two seasons.
Thanks in advance.
summit
Minister of Fire
skinanbones
Feeling the Heat
The Alderlea gasket from PE actually has a peel and stick adhesive like window tape. The problem when istalling it is the castings have to be really clean or the gasket will fall off in a couple months
Wood Heat Stoves
Minister of Fire
You can use gasket cement or furnace cement, it's the same thing. It's grayish or whitish depending on the brand. If you'r not sure you have the right size gasket, try it in the door first before putting the cement in to make sure you can shut the door and it seals properly.
thechimneysweep
Minister of Fire
The gasket isn't peel-n-stick. The graphite interferes with good adhesion, so a strip of the gasket surface is coated with Mystery Material, which in turn is protected by a peel-off paper covering. The MM is somewhat tacky, but not sufficient to make a good bond. To apply, you lay down a bead of gasket cement or hi-temp silicone sealant (furnace cement won't hold up as well), peel off the paper, and press the MM-coated side into the cement. Close the door and let the cement cure at room temp overnight.
Tip: you may have adjusted your door seal tighter as the old gasket wore in, so you'll want to pry back the adjustable hasp on the stove and re-adjust to the new gasket. The advantage of the graphite-impregnated gasket is that it seals at lower pressure, so just tighten the door seal until a dollar bill doesn't slip out when you let go (no need to pinch down to the point of tug-resistance, as with regular gasketing). If you don't overtighten the door, your new gasket won't flatten out and need replacement as often.
Tip: you may have adjusted your door seal tighter as the old gasket wore in, so you'll want to pry back the adjustable hasp on the stove and re-adjust to the new gasket. The advantage of the graphite-impregnated gasket is that it seals at lower pressure, so just tighten the door seal until a dollar bill doesn't slip out when you let go (no need to pinch down to the point of tug-resistance, as with regular gasketing). If you don't overtighten the door, your new gasket won't flatten out and need replacement as often.
skinanbones
Feeling the Heat
Just was talking today face to face with PE sales rep, when those gaskets are put in at the factory there is no gasket cement used to hold them in. The Mystery Material is the only thing used and they recommend to just remove the old and clean with alcohol to get the cast as clean as you can. Then set the new gasket in sticky side down and get pressure on it for awhile before using agian
thechimneysweep
Minister of Fire
Lay down a bead of gasket cement between the mystery material and the metal, and this won't be a problem.
10-cc
Member
Tom,
Thanks for the clear explanation as my dealer did not have a clue on that MM stuff, he thought it was a self adhesive tap as Skinanbones mentioned. By the way the T6 does not have an adjustable door.
Thanks again.
Thanks for the clear explanation as my dealer did not have a clue on that MM stuff, he thought it was a self adhesive tap as Skinanbones mentioned. By the way the T6 does not have an adjustable door.
Thanks again.
thechimneysweep
Minister of Fire
See that little cutout tab the handle shaft locks behind when you close the door? Tap it in and pry it out a bit to make small adjustments, which are all you should need.
For larger adjustments (not normally necessary), the washers on the inside and outside of door where the handle passes through can be swapped for thicker or thinner washers as needed. On the hinge side, you can remove the side casting to expose the three mounting screws for the hinge receiver plate. Loosen those three screws, and the plate can be slid forwards and backwards, which loosens and tightens the seal on the hinge side of the door.
Note that the goal here is to create just enough pressure on the gasket to prevent a dollar bill from sliding out under its own weight.
For larger adjustments (not normally necessary), the washers on the inside and outside of door where the handle passes through can be swapped for thicker or thinner washers as needed. On the hinge side, you can remove the side casting to expose the three mounting screws for the hinge receiver plate. Loosen those three screws, and the plate can be slid forwards and backwards, which loosens and tightens the seal on the hinge side of the door.
Note that the goal here is to create just enough pressure on the gasket to prevent a dollar bill from sliding out under its own weight.
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