PE T6 firebox

[CentralVAWoodHeat]

To all the T6 Owners:

What is the maximum length split you can legitimately fit in the stove both N/S and E/W?

I'm seriously considering this stove but have over fifteen cords of wood all cut somewhere between 15" and 22".

Also, what is the firebox size? I've seen some different figures and want to hear from those who own and use one. It looks like the firebox is firebrick lined as well. Is this figure with or without the firebrick? Finally, how often do you find yourself needing to replace firebrick and do gasket repairs?

Thanks

 

[bcrtops]

T5, not the T6, but will give you an idea.

Going on the 9th winter & only replaced door gasket once. Have replaced a couple fire brick, as well. Door gasket will get replaced again this summer, as well as one more firebrick that has cracked. Baffle gasket will need replaced every time baffle is removed, unless you make up a home-brew one.

T5 is listed as 18" max (N/S & 16" E/W), but a 19" will fit without hitting glass, 20" maybe on the diagonal, if not too large.
Firebrick should never be removed as the clearances & UL listing will be voided.

 

[begreen]

In the T6 you can almost squeak in a 20" split E/W and an 18" split N/S is comfortable. I have snuck in some longer splits diagonally like bcrtops.

 

[CentralVAWoodHeat]

In the T6 you can almost squeak in a 20" split E/W and an 18" split N/S is comfortable. I have snuck in some longer splits diagonally like bcrtops.

That sounds like it would work with most of my firewood. I guess that will just leave a few more longer pieces for the outdoor grill.

 

[pma1123]

I have a T5 and load N-S; 18" is my target length to cut to, but 19 & 20" can get in there if not the bottom row.

Isn't the T6 a full firebrick wider and deeper than the T5??

 

[begreen]

It'll take a 22" split diagonally. I do this for shoulder season burning sometimes and for a little maintenance heat before a large reload.

Isn't the T6 a full firebrick wider and deeper than the T5??

I don't think it's much deeper, just wider. Personally, I prefer to not have the wood too close to the glass so I stick with 18" mostly for N/S, but have slipped in a 19" or so occasionally.

 

[Squisher]

My super(t5) and my summit(t6) are the exact same brick depth and within 1/4" of each other from rear brick to the glass. Super at 20 7/8" from rear brick to the glass. And the summit at 21 1/8" from rear brick to the glass.

The alderleas may measure slightly different due to the door construction?

18" is my preferred length.

 

[madison]

18" without struggling. 20 inches max N/S if it is not in the center of the stove, the rear baffle air channel sticks out a bit more than the firebrick. Longer than 20" can go diagonal as long as they are not super sized in diameter.

My (OEM pumice) firebrick does not last more than a couple years in the front center floor around the useless airchute. I will replace those with the denser "tractor supply" firebrick in the future. Door gasket replaced once due to a crappy PE glue job, once done properly has lasted now about 5 years and looks brand new. Baffle gasket lasts about one week, the "Hog Gasket" has lasted ~ 7 years and looks like when I tied it up.

 

[CentralVAWoodHeat]

I really appreciate all the replies. My biggest concern with going to the T6 has been being left with lots of wood that is too long. Sounds like that generally will not be a problem though.

As a jacketed stove, can I expect the T6 to be a lifetime stove or am I looking at a new stove in 20-30 years?

 

[begreen]

The T6 has only been out since 2007. In general PE stoves last a long time with proper care and running. It's a welded steel box with simple, replaceable components. There's not much to go wrong outside of normal maintenance. Asking if any stove is "only" going to last 20-30yrs. is speculation. An awful lot can change in 20-30yrs. Most likely this stove will outlast me.

 

[CentralVAWoodHeat]

The T6 has only been out since 2007. In general PE stoves last a long time with proper care and running. It's a welded steel box with simple, replaceable components. There's not much to go wrong outside of normal maintenance. Asking if any stove is "only" going to last 20-30yrs. is speculation. An awful lot can change in 20-30yrs. Most likely this stove will outlast me.

Thanks for that feedback.

I think I had a bad seed planted in my head by our local Jotul dealer when it comes to steel stoves. They said that they warp and don't last. I just wanted to see what actual users think. It sounded like a sales ploy from the start as plenty of folks around the world burn steel stoves that last just fine.

 

[bcrtops]

Thanks for that feedback.

I think I had a bad seed planted in my head by our local Jotul dealer when it comes to steel stoves. They said that they warp and don't last. I just wanted to see what actual users think. It sounded like a sales ploy from the start as plenty of folks around the world burn steel stoves that last just fine.

The welded steel box was one of the most important things that sold me on the PE line. No segmented parts that are gasket-ed and/or cemented together that will, eventually, need major work. The Fisher stoves were the BEST of the steel boxes. Our old Fisher would have lasted another 100 yrs. easily & without any maintenance to the stove itself. They were built like tanks & at times, wish we had just kept it a going! Seeing the fire in our retirement years was one of the main reasons for going with an EPA stove ( saving the money changing from a 8" chimney to a 6" chimney upon replacement paid for 1/2 the new stove. The fuel savings are rather marginal, maybe 10% -- 20% at the most over the old Fisher.) When we looked at EPA stoves, I was looking for the least maintenance stove & wife was looking for something prettier. The PE line, as far as I can tell, is about the most maintenance free, easy to work on, stove on the market. Wife loved the Classic brown enamel stove, but when seeing the cook-top on the Alderlea, decided that was the one for us -- lots of power outages.

That is our story, in brief. Take your time in your decision. I could say a LOT more, but I don't want to start some kind of PE "cult", like the Cat-guys have got going. A stove purchase should be more than just a pragmatic choice, but should reflect a personal touch as well. Good Luck!

 

[begreen]

Some of the cheapest steel boxes coming from overseas may have issues with warping. Some Bosca stoves had this issue for example. But the construction, metal thickness and components in good steel stoves do not show this problem unless there is a defect or extreme use.

 

[CentralVAWoodHeat]

The welded steel box was one of the most important things that sold me on the PE line. No segmented parts that are gasket-ed and/or cemented together that will, eventually, need major work. The Fisher stoves were the BEST of the steel boxes. Our old Fisher would have lasted another 100 yrs. easily & without any maintenance to the stove itself. They were built like tanks & at times, wish we had just kept it a going! Seeing the fire in our retirement years was one of the main reasons for going with an EPA stove ( saving the money changing from a 8" chimney to a 6" chimney upon replacement paid for 1/2 the new stove. The fuel savings are rather marginal, maybe 10% -- 20% at the most over the old Fisher.) When we looked at EPA stoves, I was looking for the least maintenance stove & wife was looking for something prettier. The PE line, as far as I can tell, is about the most maintenance free, easy to work on, stove on the market. Wife loved the Classic brown enamel stove, but when seeing the cook-top on the Alderlea, decided that was the one for us -- lots of power outages.

That is our story, in brief. Take your time in your decision. I could say a LOT more, but I don't want to start some kind of PE "cult", like the Cat-guys have got going. A stove purchase should be more than just a pragmatic choice, but should reflect a personal touch as well. Good Luck!

To your point, the only reason I didn't put a Fisher in when I took the Riteway out was my homeowner's insurance in the new house wouldn't cover non-EPA approved, non-modern stoves. I also now enjoy looking at the fire so it would be hard to go back otherwise.

 

[begreen]

It's nice to burn less wood too.

 

[CentralVAWoodHeat]

It's nice to burn less wood too.

Yeah. The truth is, I don't burn that much less wood in the Castine. I would say I burn about .5-1 cord less a year in the Castine but that is just because it is too small and I can't burn as much wood as I need to at one time.

 

[begreen]

Yes, I found that during cold spells I used more wood with the Castine then I do with the T6. When temps fell below 25F I had to feed it every couple hours due to the smaller firebox. Still, I burned much less wood than with the old Majestic insert that came with the house and we were a lot warmer. That old black box was a poor heater.

 

[bcrtops]

In OR, you cannot (legally) sell, give-away, or re-use a non-EPA stove. In fact, when selling a house, a non-EPA stove has to be removed & proof of scrapping is required. Nonetheless, there is a black market for them, even so. They get used in shops / barns a lot, I think. I know for a fact that some of the stoves sold for scrap have actually found their way back to usage (benefit of the guys working there).

 

[CentralVAWoodHeat]

Yes, I found that during cold spells I used more wood with the Castine then I do with the T6. When temps fell below 25F I had to feed it every couple hours due to the smaller firebox. Still, I burned much less wood than with the old Majestic insert that came with the house and we were a lot warmer. That old black box was a poor heater.

That is exactly what happens at our house. I am reloading the Castine as soon as the stove top surface temperature gets back down to 400F when it is in the low 20's or below.

 

[CentralVAWoodHeat]

In OR, you cannot (legally) sell, give-away, or re-use a non-EPA stove. In fact, when selling a house, a non-EPA stove has to be removed & proof of scrapping is required. Nonetheless, there is a black market for them, even so. They get used in shops / barns a lot, I think. I know for a fact that some of the stoves sold for scrap have actually found their way back to usage (benefit of the guys working there).

That's exactly where my Riteway ended up. I have it in my workshop. When I get frustrated with my Castine being finicky, I just go out there and fill the old 37 with coal and let it crank