PE to Jotul 500

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neumsky

Minister of Fire
Dec 25, 2011
629
Oklahoma City
Well loved the PE Spectrum...but had to many problems with chipping of the finish...and PE sure likes to drag it's feet on getting anything done. Going to a Jotul 500 Oslo. Am I crazy??? Jeff
 
Frustrated, yes, but crazy, no, they are roughly equivalent in capacity.

What is the current status of this problem. How helpful has the dealer been? Seems like this should be just a matter of panel replacement. Where are the chips happening?
 
The dealer has been fantabulous in this whole deal. But PE has not been forthright. When the pieces finally got here 3-4 months after I ordered them...they were chipped also. So the dealer said we'll do whatever you want. So decided to try a different make & model. I'm thinking any one with flexible porcelain might have the same issues? Good to hear from you again Begreen!
 
That's great that your dealer is a good one. FWIW, I've looked at 15 year old PE stoves and the enamel still looked good. My understanding is that it's the same porcelain process used on electric and gas cook stoves. This sounds like a bad batch, not the sides flexing.

If you love the enamel and the PE burning, maybe trade to an enameled T5 Alderlea? If not, then consider the Oslo in blue-black enamel.
 
Yeah...I'm doing the Oslo Blue/Black...I still do like the Coffee Bean Color. Forgot to mention...that the coffee bean brown is now a shade darker...so also had to wait for that (3 months also). You can see it in in my avatar pic with my gold door & gold trivet. It is a cute stove.
 
I'll be very interested to hear about the differences you experience with the more radiant Oslo. Please give a full report around mid-season. In particular it will be informative to note the differences (or not) in burn times.
 
Well loved the PE Spectrum...but had to many problems with chipping of the finish...and PE sure likes to drag it's feet on getting anything done. Going to a Jotul 500 Oslo. Am I crazy??? Jeff

I hope you're not expecting Jotul to be any faster? I've ordered parts from them a few times now, and it's always several months until they arrive. Case in point... I have an estimated delivery date in October for something I ordered a month ago. That said, I'm shopping for another Jotul... at least with two of the same, I can swap parts when needed.
 
Absolutely...so your saying I will have to keep this one on the tamer side??? Their both rated for 2000 sq. ft. Interesting!
 
Joful...I was kinda wondering if that were true or not. But waiting 3 times for something to be done right with 3 month periods in between is frustrating. I've only had the stove for appox. 10 months and have been in wait for something from them since.
 
Joful...I was kinda wondering if that were true or not. But waiting 3 times for something to be done right with 3 month periods in between is frustrating. I've only had the stove for appox. 10 months and have been in wait for something from them since.


Not allways true I had a paint problem, and Jotul replaced the whole stove in no time- they gave me a choice I took the Blue Black
 
Not allways true I had a paint problem, and Jotul replaced the whole stove in no time- they gave me a choice I took the Blue Black

Surely not always true, just my unlucky experience on three out of three orders this year. Jotul does keep some parts stocked in the USA... just never the parts I need. I'm running a stove that went out of production 10 years ago, so no surprise they're not stocking lots of parts for it, but knowing that makes the factory lead times no less painful.
 
Absolutely...so your saying I will have to keep this one on the tamer side??? Their both rated for 2000 sq. ft. Interesting!
Sq ftg ratings are arbitrary. There are too many variables involved. Cubic ftg and stove design are a better guide. I think it will work fine for you, but am curious about whether you will notice a difference in burn times and maybe temp swings. That isn't saying you will, I'm just asking for a report to get your impressions mid-winter. We found with the Alderlea that temp swings were reduced and burn times went way up, but my comparison is unfair because the T6 is twice the capacity of the F400.
 
If I remember right...the Jotul F500 is at 2.2 cubic ft & the PE spectrum is 2.1. Yes...my curiosity is peaking also. Also...my hearth requirements have changed... might have to put a slight angle in the flue pipe to keep legal. You would think that these companies would be on the same page as to how they come up with sq. footage calculation they come up with. How do they figure that out anyways??? They rate the Jotul F500 Oslo at 12,000 to 34,700 BTU's.... how do they decipher that???
 
They rate the Jotul F500 Oslo at 12,000 to 34,700 BTU's.... how do they decipher that???


To make matters confusing, you'll typically find two sets of BTU ratings for every stove. Namely, the EPA test ratings, based on burning a specific quantity of framing lumber, and the advertised BTU's based on burning cord hardwood. Typically, the cord hardwood numbers are the ones used in brochures and the web site, and the EPA test ratings are listed in the manual. Some manufacturers spell this out very clearly, others do not. The EPA test ratings are typically about half of the cord hardwood ratings.

With catalyst stoves, there's a minimum BTU output associated with keeping the catalytic converter ignited, and that's typically the low number in the advertised or EPA test range. The high end of the range is with the stove burning wide open, again with framing lumber or hardwood, accordingly. I'm sure there's some corresponding method of determining the low number on a non-cat stove (minimum BTU's to keep secondary burn going?), but I'm not sure what it is.
 
You would think that these companies would be on the same page as to how they come up with sq. footage calculation they come up with. How do they figure that out anyways??? They rate the Jotul F500 Oslo at 12,000 to 34,700 BTU's.... how do they decipher that???

This is how some seem to do it:

dart-board-in-the-bar.jpg

There are too many variables in house construction, climate, wood burned and geographic location to have an accurate sq ftg.spec for a stove. The best you can do is call a range.
 
I'll be very interested to hear about the differences you experience with the more radiant Oslo. Please give a full report around mid-season. In particular it will be informative to note the differences (or not) in burn times.
You are right begreen...the oslo is more radiant with it's heat(explains why it's clearances are greater). It takes a bit more time to heat up and most definitely hangs onto it's heat long after the burn compared to my PE. What else is interesting is that the stove top was warmer than the stove pipe on the PE Spectrum and visa versa on the Jotul...Top is cooler than the pipe.( I have a probe type condor drilled into my pipe 2.5 ft. above the top). Hmmmm Now I have not gotten this stove up & beyond 400 degrees yet to see if they switch roles but will probably not allow the Jotul to get any higher than 600 degrees and than will see the correlation. Talk atchya later...as always...thanx for the help!
 
Yep, that's why I said mid-season. The next step is breaking in the owner of the new stove. :cool: It's going to take burning in different conditions and with different wood to start getting a feeling for the differences. This is hard to determine at 90F outside and 120F inside. :eek::)
 
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Yep, that's why I said mid-season. The next step is breaking in the owner of the new stove. :cool: It's going to take burning in different conditions and with different wood to start getting a feeling for the differences. This is hard to determine at 90F outside and 120F inside. :eek::)
Nice profile....BAAHAHA!
 
It's my guess of what I'll look like after 30K more posts. :cool:
 
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