Pellet Pipe Venting Question ( Corner Installation )

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CheapChimneyGuy

New Member
Oct 19, 2008
3
Middleborough MA
Hi, I was wondering if anyone could help me with an idea. I would like to install my Englander pellet stove in the corner of my room with a horizontal venting with the clean out pipe on the outside of the house. I found several issues after reading about clearances. The picture shows my clearances. Can I make the window on the right a permanetly closed window then be within code? Or, can I put the pellet pipe inside and then go out 12" inches above the window? I would rather somehow be able to do it so the pipe does not show in the house if possible. I guess I'm looking for the cheapest way out. I am going to put in an outside air intake. Thank you if you can help me.
 

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Rather than the cheapest route, maybe look at the best route so that you get the maximum satisfaction from the stove and the minimum hassle running it. The right window appears like there might be a deck alongside. Is this correct? If so, I'd favor the left side exit instead. Can you take it out low through the left wall, then on the outside go up through the soffit? That will get the smoke away from the windows and will provide draft if there is a power failure while the stove is operational.
 
I did a similar install. I went up then out, I like that look better, but obviously thats a personal choice.
Codes vary town to town I think. Just follow the manual to the tee and you'll be fine.
 
Here is what I did.
 

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Outside from the end of the exhaust vent cap to the side of the window measured 4 ft exactly. Had to get creative with all the windows in our cape. Also had to purchase an extra 45 degree elbow which didn't come with the Dura Vent kit. Used OAK and works wonderful!!!


A rule of thumb equation used by most pellet manufactures. The equation is called the sum of Equivalent Vertical Length (EVL). All of the above mentioned venting restrictions have been assigned EVL values as follows:

Each 45 degree elbow = 3 EVL
Each 90 degree elbow and Tees with cleanout = 5 EVL
Each foot of horizontal run = 1 EVL
Each foot of Vertical run = 0.5 EVL
Elevations above 3000 ft with an EVL of 7 must adapt to 4 inch vent pipe.

If your installation is below 3000ft, we would need to do some math. The rule of thumb equations is that if the sum of the EVL is 15 or greater, then the pellet vent pipe would be increased to 4 inch diameter pellet vent pipe.

Mine all added up to 17 and it works great.

Go here ------- http://www.nevelsstoves.com/articles/Venting-your-pellet-stove.htm It gives great diagrams and explanations about different installations.


Stay warm.
 
Hi Everyone thank you for the responses. There is a deck out to the right, so I would like to favor the left hand side. I probably should have explained myself better in my post. I should have included that I need to be 48" from the window but I have to stay 11" from the corner which would put me about 25" or so from the window. Would I be able to run the pipe vent that close to the window if it terminated at least 12" above the window? Or do I have to stay 48" from the window at all times? I read that if the window was not operational I could stay 18" inches from it. I'm trying to avoid going through the cathedral ceiling. I hope I explained this correctly. Thank you!
 
The whole reason from staying that far away from an opening window is that 1. It may be an escape route 2. If windows are not air tight smoke can come back into the home (which can be toxic). I got a CO detector and a fire extinguisher just in case.
 
sydney1963 said:
A rule of thumb equation used by most pellet manufactures. The equation is called the sum of Equivalent Vertical Length (EVL). All of the above mentioned venting restrictions have been assigned EVL values as follows:
Each foot of Vertical run = 0.5 EVL
It is NOT Equivalent Vertical Length. EVL is Equivalent VENT Length. It is a calculation to approximate the expected resistance to airflow relative to horizontal pipe runs. That's why a foot of vertical pipe is calculated with a .5 factor and a horizontal foot is a 1 factor.

The website you reference is wrong. Does it make sense to you that an equivalent vertical length would count the vertical measurements by half and the horizontal ones as the whole measured length?
 
CheapChimneyGuy said:
Hi Everyone thank you for the responses. There is a deck out to the right, so I would like to favor the left hand side. I probably should have explained myself better in my post. I should have included that I need to be 48" from the window but I have to stay 11" from the corner which would put me about 25" or so from the window. Would I be able to run the pipe vent that close to the window if it terminated at least 12" above the window? Or do I have to stay 48" from the window at all times? I read that if the window was not operational I could stay 18" inches from it. I'm trying to avoid going through the cathedral ceiling. I hope I explained this correctly. Thank you!

The window can not be assumed to be inoperable. The way to solve this problem is to take the pipe up. Note, the 48" rule is for below and horiz. from the window. What is the distance from the vent termination and the window if it is say a foot or two below the soffit? Once it is above the window, it can be 12" away from it. If that is not achievable, then take it through the soffit and roof.

Download this manual link for more help:
http://www.duravent.com/docs/instruct/L502_aug05.pdf
 
Cheap Chimney Guy:

I have your setup to a tee but I have 2 windows on each side. I ended up going through the cathedral ceiling just because I did not want the pipe sticking out 4 ft outside the house. It was a little pricier but boy does it look good with the black pipe on the inside. Another thing to consider is how much heat the black pipe radiates inside. Very hot. That's my 2 cents.
 
Why not just install an outside air kit? I thought that lowered the window distance to 18". (thats what it says in my stove manual, anyway...)
 
I would reommend a vertical all the way out with 4".

Eric
 
cac4, my Englander manual doesn't even give the option of straight out w/outside air kit. Only gives the option -must use OAK and either up and out or out and up, unlike Harman.
 
ok here is the straight poop.

you do not have 4 ft clearance from the corner to the edge of the window on either wall, therefore you must adhere to NFPA211 standard which states you must clear the top of the window by a minimum of 1 ft. eric offered the straight up option which is viable begreen has a valid arguement as well it looks like a through the soffit may be the best outside option. the "left exit" is better with this unit as the collar is off center left already.

as for the reduced clearance listed in the other brand's manual, ESW curently has a" request for clarification" on the "special venting" chapter of nfpa211 which allows for closer clearance when OAK is installed and the system is sealed. we at ESW will not recognise this until we have an explanation fo whether it applies to pellet stoves specifically. until then the 4 ft clearance will be recognised. once ESW recieves clarafication on this i will post it.
 
X2 = another vote for the outside air kit.I did it with the Harman and it allows closer (18" ) to window.
Problem solved !
 
Hi Thank you for all your replies they are very helpful. I think I understand now. However I'm not to clear about 1 thing. Can I just put the termination end of the vent pipe more than 12” above the window and I’ll be fine? The pipe would rise vertically outside of the house about 25” from the window but would terminate about 16” above the top of the window. I wil be intalling the OAK ( In other words.... Do I have to keep the vertical rise 48" from the window, or, just the termination end of the pipe has to be 48 inches? )Thank you!
 
I measured by the termination end but can't say that it's correct. It just worked for me and made me feel better about the install. 3 and a half feet from window to where vent exits the house vs. 4' from window to the vent termination.
 
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