Pellet Stove Chimney Installation

[MTPReggie]

I'm new on this board as I've recently purchased a pellet stove. I did search for an already-listed answer to my questions and didn't find any, so apologies if it exists - just point me to it...


I have a small farm and ranch in Central Texas. The old farmhouse is almost 100 years old. I replaced the crappy, old wood-burning stove with a Breckwell free-standing pellet stove. The old stove had a 6-inch, single-wall chimney set up. The location of the stove is in an open area that separates the dining room and kitchen. The 'doorway' between the two is 8-9 feet wide and the stove sits in the middle. As it turns out, this is the best place in the house for the stove as it is almost dead center of the house and can easily heat every room.


I would like to use the existing chimney from the ceiling to the roof and Simpson Dura-Vent DVL Double-wall from the ceiling down to the stove. A few inches of 6-inch, single-wall pipe extends a few inches below the support box. I already have a 3-inch to 6-inch adapter installed on the top of the stove (yes, I'll be coming out the top and not the back). I will need the telescoping length, two 45-degree elbows (the existing chimney is offset from the center of the opening) and a 12-inch or 18-inch piece, which will be set up in that order between the stove and the existing 6-inch chimney at the ceiling. The support box is already there as well as all of the hardware up to the top of the roof.


My questions are...


I cannot find anything that describes how the Dura-Vent pieces connect. Can anybody tell me? Will I need to seal each connection? I know that high-temp sealant doesn't last forever. Does each connection require an adapter?


How can I connect from the Dura-Vent to the existing 6-inch, single-wall pipe at the support box?


I am fairly handy and maintain everything on the farm myself, so installation will be no trouble. I just have the two questions above. Any help will be much appreciated.


Reggie

 

[summit]

first, you need to establish what kinda chimney you got there.. you are sayin a single wall chimney connects to it; is it just a piece of stovepipe running up thru, or is it an insulated chimney (metalbestos, insulated, air cooled?)?

duravent twist locks together.. it has a piece of gasket material (like a rope) in each section that, in theory anyway, keeps the smoke under positive pressure inside the vent. that being said, you will need sealant because it will leak. only the connetion to the outlet on the stove will require a starter collar, and they make an adaptor to tie to a prefab insulated chimney. sounds like a starter collar, a tee, and a couple lengths to get to the ceiling should do you, along with some tek screws to put on the joints after you twist lock them. don't use the sealant in the connection from the starter collar to the tee; invest in a roll of alum foil tape to wrap the joint in so that it can bea easilly dissassembled for cleaning by remove a screw and unwrapping the tape. the sealant hardens up really well, and adheres tightly an is a royal b&*^% to disconnect two pieces.
PLEASE do not tie it into a single wall stovepipe that goes all the way thru the building, and if it is, stop using any stove on it, and get an approved chimney and/ or vent.

 

[summit]

forget the tee if you are coming off the top.. my bad

 

[MTPReggie]

first, you need to establish what kinda chimney you got there.. you are sayin a single wall chimney connects to it; is it just a piece of stovepipe running up thru, or is it an insulated chimney (metalbestos, insulated, air cooled?)?

THIS is what the installation looks like - minus the second story in the middle. And when I took apart the old chimney from the support box down, I could verify what I saw in the attic, that it is a single-wall pipe all the way to the top.

duravent twist locks together.. it has a piece of gasket material (like a rope) in each section that, in theory anyway, keeps the smoke under positive pressure inside the vent. that being said, you will need sealant because it will leak. only the connetion to the outlet on the stove will require a starter collar, and they make an adaptor to tie to a prefab insulated chimney. sounds like a starter collar, a tee, and a couple lengths to get to the ceiling should do you, along with some tek screws to put on the joints after you twist lock them. don't use the sealant in the connection from the starter collar to the tee; invest in a roll of alum foil tape to wrap the joint in so that it can bea easilly dissassembled for cleaning by remove a screw and unwrapping the tape. the sealant hardens up really well, and adheres tightly an is a royal b&*^% to disconnect two pieces.

Is the twist lock 'rope' a separate piece to purchase? I already have the adjustable piece and the 3-inch to 6-inch converter. Neither came with that 'rope'. Nor is there any obvious way they hold together. I didn't see anything that would indicate a twist lock application. The outside diameters are equal on both pieces at the mating surfaces...

PLEASE do not tie it into a single wall stovepipe that goes all the way thru the building, and if it is, stop using any stove on it, and get an approved chimney and/ or vent.

Simply because it's unsafe? Is that not a standard installation? I can't tell you how old it is. Of course, if I do go with a new installation all the way to the roof, I'll stick with the Dura-Vent pieces and they will match up just fine. I'll just have to spend that much more money, which is really not an issue...

 

[Wood Heat Stoves]

The old stove had a 6-inch, single-wall chimney set up. The location of the stove is in an open area that separates the dining room and kitchen. The 'doorway' between the two is 8-9 feet wide and the stove sits in the middle. As it turns out, this is the best place in the house for the stove as it is almost dead center of the house and can easily heat every room.


I would like to use the existing chimney from the ceiling to the roof and Simpson Dura-Vent DVL Double-wall from the ceiling down to the stove. A few inches of 6-inch, single-wall pipe extends a few inches below the support box. I already have a 3-inch to 6-inch adapter installed on the top of the stove (yes, I'll be coming out the top and not the back). I will need the telescoping length, two 45-degree elbows (the existing chimney is offset from the center of the opening) and a 12-inch or 18-inch piece, which will be set up in that order between the stove and the existing 6-inch chimney at the ceiling. The support box is already there as well as all of the hardware up to the top of the roof.


My questions are...


I cannot find anything that describes how the Dura-Vent pieces connect. Can anybody tell me? Will I need to seal each connection? I know that high-temp sealant doesn't last forever. Does each connection require an adapter?


How can I connect from the Dura-Vent to the existing 6-inch, single-wall pipe at the support box?


I am fairly handy and maintain everything on the farm myself, so installation will be no trouble. I just have the two questions above. Any help will be much appreciated.


Reggie

ok, to start, why are you not running 3 or 4" chimney? larger stack will not work as well as a 4"/ or the 3" the unit is designed for. have you read the manual? i bet it suggests 3 or 4" pipe on vertical connections

but to be helpful, to connect 6" dvl to a chimney you use a close clearance connector like this
http://woodheatstoves.com/6-close-clearance-adapter-p-9399.html
dave

 

[MTPReggie]

ok, to start, why are you not running 3 or 4" chimney? larger stack will not work as well as a 4"/ or the 3" the unit is designed for. have you read the manual? i bet it suggests 3 or 4" pipe on vertical connections

Yep. I know. Although the stove I have says 6-inch is acceptable. I was only hoping to utilize some of the existing pipe...

but to be helpful, to connect 6" dvl to a chimney you use a close clearance connector like this
http://woodheatstoves.com/6-close-clearance-adapter-p-9399.html
dave

That's on my list of items to order (the adapter to which I linked in my OP). I wasn't sure if that was the piece required though and the reason why I am here asking questions.


If I have to replace the entire length of pipe, I will go to the 3-inch sections however...

 

[MTPReggie]

If I have to replace the entire length of pipe, I will go to the 3-inch sections however...

In addition, I remember reading somewhere, that if there is an existing vent pipe like the 6-inch already installed, you can install the 3-inch or 4-inch flue up though the 6-inch set up. That may not be a bad way to go either. Then I won't have to replace the support box, or anything up on the roof. Any work on the roof on this house would not be trivial...


But if I can run a long piece of 3-inch or 4-inch pipe inside the existing 6-inch up to the roof vent, life would be much easier.

 

[Wood Heat Stoves]

its entirely possible to vent 3" up to the cieling and dump it into the class a in place. it becomes a tiny bit of a cleaning issue, warm exhaust hitting cool pipe equals a mess!!
its too bad makers dont allow single wall gavlanived pipe inside class a anymore....much cheaper alternative than ss or pvent

 

[Wood Heat Stoves]

If I have to replace the entire length of pipe, I will go to the 3-inch sections however...

In addition, I remember reading somewhere, that if there is an existing vent pipe like the 6-inch already installed, you can install the 3-inch or 4-inch flue up though the 6-inch set up. That may not be a bad way to go either. Then I won't have to replace the support box, or anything up on the roof. Any work on the roof on this house would not be trivial...


But if I can run a long piece of 3-inch or 4-inch pipe inside the existing 6-inch up to the roof vent, life would be much easier.

this is your best bet!

 

[BrotherBart]

If the pipe from the ceiling collar to the sky is Class A double wall then there ain't no problem venting a pellet stove into it. If that setup is single wall all the way up it has to go. Small wonder if they were burning wood that the house was still there for you to buy. If it is double wall Class A then run 3" pellet vent to an adapter at the ceiling box and rock and roll.

If not, and you have to run new pellet vent all the way up it has to be 4" given the height of the chimney if that is a two story house.

The floor is open for the pros to tell me that I am full of it. :cheese:

The "rope" summit is talking about is stuffed in each end of the Duravent pellet pipe. It comes in the pipe when you buy it. It is stuffed between the inside and outside wall of the pipe.

 

[MTPReggie]

If the pipe from the ceiling collar to the sky is Class A double wall then there ain't no problem venting a pellet stove into it. If that setup is single wall all the way up it has to go. Small wonder if they were burning wood that the house was still there for you to buy. If it is double wall Class A then run 3" pellet vent to an adapter at the ceiling box and rock and roll.

Now I am questioning what I remember. I will have to recheck the piece in the attic. The little bit that sticks out into the house at the bottom of the support box is single wall however...

If not, and you have to run new pellet vent all the way up it has to be 4" given the height of the chimney if that is a two story house.

It's only a one-story house.

The "rope" summit is talking about is stuffed in each end of the Duravent pellet pipe. It comes in the pipe when you buy it. It is stuffed between the inside and outside wall of the pipe.

Gotcha. However, the DVL double-wall I've seen didn't have that. It had a series of 1/4-inch holes to allow cooler air to circulate between the two layers.

But it looks like I will be going to a 3-inch pipe anyway, at least to the support box, if not higher...

 

[summit]

if it is single wall pipe, then you cannot utilize it... however, you should be able to sleeve the pellet pipe inside the 6" pipe you have now all the way to top without having to rip irt out. yes, a single wall pipe is unsafe to pass thru the house.

 

[MTPReggie]

if it is single wall pipe, then you cannot utilize it... however, you should be able to sleeve the pellet pipe inside the 6" pipe you have now all the way to top without having to rip irt out. yes, a single wall pipe is unsafe to pass thru the house.

That's the plan now. I will have to get it cleaned first though. It's a mess.

Is there a cap/ring that can go around the 6-inch pipe at the bottom of the support box that holds the 3-inch pipe in place and covers the space in between? I haven't seen one yet...

I'm looking at 3-inch PelletVent Pro from Simpson now. They have what they claim are air-tight connections between sections.

 

[summit]

i don't think they make a factory clamp, but with a large enough pipe clamp, and/or maybe a storm collar, you should be able to place a clamp/stormcollar combo at the top that will support the vent from the top of the opening... then you will just need a tapered stovepipe collar to trim it out at the bottom.

 

[Wood Heat Stoves]

actually, an inverted storm collar painted black can work for the interior ceiling ring...silicone and screw into place

 

[MTPReggie]

Thanks for all of the help and tips guys. It is much appreciated!

 

[Wood Heat Stoves]

actually, an inverted storm collar painted black can work for the interior ceiling ring...silicone and screw into place

use silicone sparingly, it isn't paintable

 

[MTPReggie]

actually, an inverted storm collar painted black can work for the interior ceiling ring...silicone and screw into place

use silicone sparingly, it isn't paintable

It's easy enough to buy black silicone though...

 

[dac122]

As someone already said your installed instructions may be calling for 3" or 4" pipe only. The reason is your exhaust/draft blower is designed for a certain CFM and by increasing the chimney pipe volume could inhibit proper drafting. Of course each install is unique, so it all depends.

Like you I wanted to dump my 3" into a larger 7", but my install instructions called for only 3" or 4" chimney. Unlike you I only had 5 feet to the cap, including stack.

So realize with that many feet of 6", your unique roof top drafting conditions, and the CFM of your blower, you could run into a drafting problem. The solution is to then line your 6" with 3" or 4" pipe all the way up.

Never wanting to do more work than I have to, I tried just what you are, but kept in the back of my mind the need for further work. It worked for me, so fingers crossed, it will work for you.

 

[MTPReggie]

As someone already said your installed instructions may be calling for 3" or 4" pipe only. The reason is your exhaust/draft blower is designed for a certain CFM and by increasing the chimney pipe volume could inhibit proper drafting. Of course each install is unique, so it all depends.

Like you I wanted to dump my 3" into a larger 7", but my install instructions called for only 3" or 4" chimney. Unlike you I only had 5 feet to the cap, including stack.

So realize with that many feet of 6", your unique roof top drafting conditions, and the CFM of your blower, you could run into a drafting problem. The solution is to then line your 6" with 3" or 4" pipe all the way up.

Never wanting to do more work than I have to, I tried just what you are, but kept in the back of my mind the need for further work. It worked for me, so fingers crossed, it will work for you.

What did you do to close/seal the gap where the 6-inch and 3-inch pipes first met?

 

[dac122]

As mentioned I went from 7" down to 3". So I have a 7" to 6" adapter that I sheet metal screwed and silicon-ed. On to that I added my 6" to 3" starter collar, which once again I sheet metal screwed and silicon-ed. My starter collar was originally a 6" cap. So I traced my pipe over it and carefully cut a 3" centered hole. I then simply inserted the 3" pipe and put a nice bead of silicone around it.

Because my chimney takes a 45 degree angle over to my stove I added two small L-shaped brackets to hold the 3" pipe into the 6" collar to support any chimney pipe weight.

I can post pics. Just say so.

All screw tips get coats of silicone before sinking them and, and you always use high temp silicone.

Wish I had known about the metal tape idea.

 

[MTPReggie]

As mentioned I went from 7" down to 3". So I have a 7" to 6" adapter that I sheet metal screwed and silicon-ed. On to that I added my 6" to 3" starter collar, which once again I sheet metal screwed and silicon-ed. My starter collar was originally a 6" cap. So I traced my pipe over it and carefully cut a 3" centered hole. I then simply inserted the 3" pipe and put a nice bead of silicone around it.

Because my chimney takes a 45 degree angle over to my stove I added two small L-shaped brackets to hold the 3" pipe into the 6" collar to support any chimney pipe weight.

I can post pics. Just say so.

All screw tips get coats of silicone before sinking them and, and you always use high temp silicone.

Wish I had known about the metal tape idea.

I can picture what you did in my mind. And I know what I need to do all the way up now...


3-inch pipe out of the stove with two 45-degree elbows over and up to the support box. Insert a 3-inch pipe from the support box to the roof then place a 6-inch to 3-inch converter mated to the existing 6-inch pipe via the adapter linked above (the interior 3-inch pipe attached to the converter from inside the 6-inch end). 3-inch pipe from the stove into the 3-inch side of the converter. A 6-inch collar around the existing 6-inch pipe where it extends out of the support box to clean things up. High temp sealant and metal tape where necessary...

Done.


Thanks guys!

 

[dac122]

Here is the full install:

A closer picture of the old 7" chimney, 7" to 6" adapter, and 6" collar

Here's a zoom, so you can see the small brackets, which covered nicely under the paint. There is another bracket on the other side.

 

[Wood Heat Stoves]

As mentioned I went from 7" down to 3". So I have a 7" to 6" adapter that I sheet metal screwed and silicon-ed. On to that I added my 6" to 3" starter collar, which once again I sheet metal screwed and silicon-ed. My starter collar was originally a 6" cap. So I traced my pipe over it and carefully cut a 3" centered hole. I then simply inserted the 3" pipe and put a nice bead of silicone around it.

Because my chimney takes a 45 degree angle over to my stove I added two small L-shaped brackets to hold the 3" pipe into the 6" collar to support any chimney pipe weight.

I can post pics. Just say so.

All screw tips get coats of silicone before sinking them and, and you always use high temp silicone.

Wish I had known about the metal tape idea.

what is the clearance from the single wall connector to your pitched cieling??

 

[dac122]

As mentioned I went from 7" down to 3". So I have a 7" to 6" adapter that I sheet metal screwed and silicon-ed. On to that I added my 6" to 3" starter collar, which once again I sheet metal screwed and silicon-ed. My starter collar was originally a 6" cap. So I traced my pipe over it and carefully cut a 3" centered hole. I then simply inserted the 3" pipe and put a nice bead of silicone around it.

Because my chimney takes a 45 degree angle over to my stove I added two small L-shaped brackets to hold the 3" pipe into the 6" collar to support any chimney pipe weight.

I can post pics. Just say so.

All screw tips get coats of silicone before sinking them and, and you always use high temp silicone.

Wish I had known about the metal tape idea.

what is the clearance from the single wall connector to your pitched cieling??

I'd have to go back and measure but pretty sure it is more than 18 inches.