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Pellet Stove Gasket Material

Post in 'The Pellet Mill - Pellet and Multifuel Stoves' started by Val, Apr 27, 2013.

  1. Val

    Val New Member

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    Even though I am a believer in manufacturers gaskets. At times, I am really disgusted with the price.


    Well, for simple gaskets like rectangles, does anyone make their own. This goes for any stove.

    Do you use just a Mr Gasket automotive style material? Or do you cut silicone rubber sheet? Thin Asbestos sheet?
    There are just so many gasket materials out there. I also wonder if it is possible to even identify the material type used in a gasket today.

    I typically dont usually make gaskets that are more intricate with punch holes, but rather think of duplicating simple shaped ones.

    I only ask because, generally I am not opposed to spending money on a necessity like a gasket, but it seems like the pellet stove industry, just like the automotive industry is ripping people off by overcharging on a simple cutout shape.

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  2. hossthehermit

    hossthehermit Minister of Fire

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  3. Defiant

    Defiant Vermont Castings Geek

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    Hey Val, what brand and model stove are you gasketing and where are you located?
  4. mralias

    mralias Minister of Fire

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  5. Don2222

    Don2222 Minister of Fire

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  6. imacman

    imacman Guest

  7. Snowy Rivers

    Snowy Rivers Minister of Fire

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    Most gaskets used where the temps are high (exhaust blowers and such) are "Lytherm"
    This is the white fluffy material thats used by the factory.

    This material is available in sheets and rolls from various manufactures that advertise online.

    Snowy
  8. Val

    Val New Member

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    What this is about...is that I have a 2006 Harman Accentra. Basically, the stove runs OK, but I am now at a point where eventually i have to do more in-depth cleaning / maintainence to it. Sometimes I get 5 or 6 blink status, my auger is doing the whine-squeak and I really need to make sure that the motors-if they can get lubed, get lubed. The glass gets dirty fast. I have only gone through about 15-17 tons of pellets. I keep the stove vacuumed under the cast panels at the motor fins and clean the flue pipe. But I know thats not enough for the long term. Because I feel that I am always at work, I have to pre-plan projects. This stove does not need a complete tear down yet, but more in depth maintainence. I also had bought a used 2002 Accentra, that theoretically has less time on it than mine which I bought new, which needs some care because the person who sold it didnt own it, just aquired it though a business deal and threw it in a damp, dirt floor garage. The original owners never cleaned it either, I dont think. That is, in theory, a future "twin" stove, for parts or whole in case mine breaks down in the middle of winter. So...I have 2 Accentras. The "twin" Accentra is, perhaps, in need of some teardown TLC for rustproofing, although i cleaned it out and ran it. I often avoid the dealer, because it isnt like the old days when an equipment dealer took pride in what they sold and actually cared about the customer and service. Bought the burn pot gasket set and the intake. Figured I could make the distribution or rectangle cover gaskets. But I can buy them too...doesnt matter. Ironically, sometimes you can use a better material than original because it will hold up to future disassembly. These projects are set ahead for future time, *whenever* hopefully this summer will at least need to clean/ maintain the 2006 better.

    I hear of people making gaskets from silicone rubber, too. But I often wonder if these gaskets are set at 500 degrees. It depends on the material these gaskets are made of...I wonder if the automotive exhaust gasket material is rated higher. I think all of this gasket stuff is due in part, to the fact that if you take something apart for the first time, end up screwing up, then re assembling it and screw up the new gasket in the process. Then i hate the thought of re-ordering one, paying shipping that costs more than the gasket or ugh...going to the dealer and having to kiss ass.
  9. Don2222

    Don2222 Minister of Fire

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    Hi Val

    We like to put the region of the country in our Avatar and Stove make and model in our signature so people can see and help us out better. :) This way we know the climate and stove issues.
    Seeing you posted at 2:00 AM you may be in a far away time zone. ;)

    The 500 deg hi temp orange silicon gaskets are only for lower temp areas of the stove. Breckwell uses them on their room blowers. The white 1000 Deg Lytherm gaskets are used for exhaust and burn pot gaskets.

    If you have a squeaky auger then you need "super auger service".
    I wrote a blog on how to do it with pics called "Pimp Your Auger" I just did it a couple days ago on my Harman P-61a and now the auger turns like butter!
    See >> http://www.eastcoasthearth.com/1_108_Pimp-Up-Your-Auger.html
  10. Val

    Val New Member

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    Thank you very much for the information. I have also seen other posts on cleaning the auger tubes and one on the auger squeak. Actually, I live in NY state. But my sleep is all screwed up because I work afternoon-night. But....I am curious about the moly lube. I wonder if other people use dry grahite spray instead? Will dry graphite spray work better than moly because it is more heat resistant?. Also, for cleaning stove parts....wouldn't you recommend dip parts cleaner like PSC-1000? Acetone, mineral spirits, alcohol never seem tough enough to remove carbon deposits or sticky residue. (I wonder if stage 3 chimney cleaner could dissolve deposits) followed by brake cleaner or higher flash parts solvent would be better? I ask about the cleaners because is it possible to really do scoring damage if you overdo wire wheel brushing on a drill? This will have to be summer project. I can look forward to having stove parts strewn across the living room. One thing about the Accentra is it is such a pretty stove, but that bastard is heavy as hell.
  11. imacman

    imacman Guest

    Yes, I do....it works great, especially on combustion blower vanes.

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