Pellet Stove in Theory - Troubles with mechanical operations

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guitarjamman

New Member
Sep 26, 2013
52
Central MA
Ok, went through a weekend troubleshooting my pellet stove and working on getting it ready for winter. Bought a few bags of pellets from Lowes and threw away the few handful of old ones left in the stove from the previous owners. Year 2000 Enviro-EF4 Insert.

Questions/Troubles:
1.) The slide damper has MINIMAL effect on the flame and burn. For testing sake, I closed it all the way (pushed the slider in) and let it sit to adjust. After 15 minutes, it was still burning and spitting out ashes. I was expecting to see a tall lazy flame with lots of black smoke and soot (close damper ALL the way). Instead it just burned like a blow torch and when I opened the damper all the way, all that would happen was a few of the more burned up pellets would flicker around the burn pot, no difference in flame or burn. That said, I read previously on this site that the air intake on the back of the pellet stove insert (round tube near auger motor) needed to be closed off a little bit to help. I am going to try that this weekend with metal duct tape, the plan is to completely tape over 3/4 of the tube and cut it open until the desired flame is achieved. The stove is chewing through pellets due to too much air, the Dial-A-Fire has to be either at the 3:00 position or on Max all the way in the red zone to keep the fire going, any lower and it will burn down way too quickly. My stove was updated with the 3-second auger switch too (timed it). Is there any reason that the damper would have almost no effect on the flame?

2.) The convection blower on my unit is on the fritz. I tested it and it appears the bushings are bad (slight scraping noise when turning it by hand). Now, it works on MAX but when the pellet stove is chugging along, I would assume that I could dial the fan back to slow down the heat pumping into the room. I know my blower would cut out with little power, but if I turn it all the way down to minimum where I know it doesn't work, it still blows heavy on MAX. My assumption is that this is a safety feature to keep the stove cool, but should it blow on MAX all the time?

Thanks, I am hoping to become a pro at this little bugger soon enough.
 
Is there a stop on the slide damper? I have fought slides on Countrysides for years as they gum up and will not close far enough. The factory tech even recommended trimming the corners of the slide to get enough restriction. Just a thought as I have no idea of your stoves design.
 
Is there a stop on the slide damper? I have fought slides on Countrysides for years as they gum up and will not close far enough. The factory tech even recommended trimming the corners of the slide to get enough restriction. Just a thought as I have no idea of your stoves design.

The slide damper has a metal hex screw in an open channel in the middle. The damper slides past the screw through the channel cut into the metal damper slide - close it as far as it will go and the hex screw is at the end of the channel. The whole slider plate has a curved end for your fingers to grab onto, but that screw is what stops you from going too far. I may just remove the screw and see how much further I can close the damper before trying to cover the fresh air intake.
 
guitarjamman, did you ever figure this out. I have an EF4 free standing unit and have the same issue where the air damper basically does nothing. It has almost no effect on the fire and I can plug the air intake and it still burns good. What is the deal with these stoves?
 
guitarjamman, did you ever figure this out. I have an EF4 free standing unit and have the same issue where the air damper basically does nothing. It has almost no effect on the fire and I can plug the air intake and it still burns good. What is the deal with these stoves?

This stove has been a test in patience for me. I still have not figured anything out with the damper, but I do know that the Dial-A-Fire controls the combustion blower speed. Crank up the heat, and the blower ramps up. I seem to burn the best when I set the knob right around 2 o'clock. A full clean and replacing the door gasket helped me immensely in maintaining a good burn.

As far as the damper adjustment? I think it is just for show on these models. I keep it barely open regardless of pellet quality or burn rate, seems to hold up just fine. I just wish I could slow down the air flow to keep a longer burn going in the pot; I still have a bit of an issue with lit pellets getting blown out of the burn pot.
 
This stove has been a test in patience for me. I still have not figured anything out with the damper, but I do know that the Dial-A-Fire controls the combustion blower speed. Crank up the heat, and the blower ramps up. I seem to burn the best when I set the knob right around 2 o'clock. A full clean and replacing the door gasket helped me immensely in maintaining a good burn.

As far as the damper adjustment? I think it is just for show on these models. I keep it barely open regardless of pellet quality or burn rate, seems to hold up just fine. I just wish I could slow down the air flow to keep a longer burn going in the pot; I still have a bit of an issue with lit pellets getting blown out of the burn pot.
The ef4 was a challenge even for enviro, you'll notice it's not made anymore.
 
I was searching the Enviro website and find some OLD technical service bulletins that were posted regarding the EF-4 and trouble with the slide damper. There was an aftermarket slide plate that restricted the incoming air to a greater extent than the OEM, which sounds exactly like what I need. My model number falls within the range of affected units but I have a suspicion that my slide damper was never replaced.

Is it worth trying to call Sherwood Industries to see if they can help me out, or should I just suck it up and purchase the replacement slide damper? I am really grabbing at straws here.
 
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