Pellet Stove Overfill

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Yeah, that's what I thought also, they said it may increase the fan too? He said to try it anyway, but it doesn't make sense to me. I'm confused on marking the auger? I thought I was timing it, not watching the actual revolutions? Alright, off to my tree. I'll check in again tonight. Thanks again MSG!
 
the revs and timing are the same thing, you can also listen for the auger, but wathcing it on the motor with a reference point marked is just more accurate. its hard to see it turn unless you have a mark on it. You dont care how many times it turns, just that it turns for 2.8 seconds and is off for 4.2...
glad i could help.
look forward to the verdict.
 
Timed it last night, 16 times, seems good. I work in a lab, so I could give the SD and CV of the timings, but I won't bore people. Took out the combustion blower today, cleaned everything, never did set the board to 5 because it's been running ok even with the feed shut all the way down (that bugs me). Blower looked ok, but one thing of note. When I plugged her (can I say her?) back in, the combution motor hummed and did not spin. Hand to give the counter weight a push to get her (opps, I did it again) going. That happened twice while working on it (her?), so I'm wondering if the motor is going? Thanks again as usual, B.
 
sounds like it, it should be under warrenty. I have had very few, if any problems with combustion blowers on newer units.
 
Damn Ryan, you're quick. I'll keep you posted. Need to lay down for a bit after laying under the stove, I'm getting old. But not old enough to carry my sorry arsh up in a tree in a couple hours to look at deer (or the usual turkeys which is getting old). It's 50+ degrees here in the Twins MN, sunny. Weird. Global warming? I think not. I probably shouldn't have type that, Craig is going to jump in now.....
 
Merry Christmas everyone! Just a quick update, things are still not quite right. Since the last post, I've replaced the door gasket and combustion blower, and once again cleaned everything. I also removed the pot and took a wire brush to it, cleaned the holes, etc. I didn't have a new pot gasket and was darned if I was going to turn on the furnance, so I used furnance cement to seal the pot back in place (ok??). The pot was no big deal as some have said, took around 20 minutes to do. As it stands, the stove seems to continues to be behind and overfeeding, the feed is still choked all the way down, still getting half full pots and one chute backup overnight since the fixes. Burning 100% pellet that's burned good in the past, the corn makes things worse. Someone throw Gotz a bone and make his Xmas a good one, I'm out of ideas! Keep waiting to pull a possum out of the vent pipe, that would make my day or at least explain things at this point.
 
the dealer hasnt been out yet? Its under warrenty still isnt it? You shouldnt have glued that pot down, it will be almost impossible to get it back out. Well, i guess the only other thing i can think of is the control board or you have a vacume leak somwhere. Did you every verify that the slide under the pot had a dime's worth of gap between it and the pot?
 
Jeez Ryan, do you have a internet shock collar on to alert you of new posts? Yeah, I wasn't too happy about the furnance cement, but too darn stubborn to turn on the NG. Ahh well, guess I'll wait and see about when I have to remove the pot next time. Dealer has not been out, I was hoping to save them a trip and hopefull that the new blower would do it. It is a ton quieter now, so i do think there was some issues there. Yep, the gap on the pot looks good, the whole box looks good from what I can tell. If the board was goofy, would the timing be off? It's doing the 2.2/4.8 seconds on high.
 
you would think so, if the timing is right that would leave only one more thing i could think of, and that is some realy short pellets.
 
It's Homewood (?) softwood, Slave Lake CA. Same as Kenntucky Komfort I believe. Some of them are 1.5 inches long, I've burned them ok in the past. Like I said, I'm looking for a possum or sparrow at his point. Going out to do the flue again, unlike your area it's a brown Xmas here in the Twins, MN. So how screwed am I with the furnace cement? I guess the beers didn't help my thought process last night.....
 
not screwed totally, but that stuff is TOUGH. if it were me, i would get it out now while its relativly fresh and since its not working great any way just run it without. You might bust the pot if you try to hard so maybe thats not good advice. I guess i will change my mind and say leave it. You might have to break out the pot at somepoint and thats a $200 item.
 
you might be dealing with pellets that have a higher than normal moisture content. they will not burn as fast as normal and can mimic an airflow issue, try this, take about a half a coffee cup of pellets, put them in a glass (not plastic!!) bowl, cover with a plate and nuke em in a microwave for about 45 seconds. there should be a slight amount of steaming from the pellets , but if you have enough to see in the bottom of the bowl, or if there is enough that when you remove the plate from the top of the bowl and turn it on its side and the water drips, or runs down the plate your problem may lie with the pellets
 
I know I'm beating a dead horse, but I have a new theory that I wanted to bounce off the group. The stove is working better post the combustion fan replacement, but still have the feed shut down all the way with very occasional pot over flows. I'm burning a new pellet with little or no difference. Here's the theory: Do you think it is possible that the cold air return is back drafting? I'm using the Selkirk tube-in-a-tube and have noticed that it gets fairly hot to the touch on the outside tube, I took some temps with the point and shoot therm last night. After running full on for over an hour, the temp of outside tube was the following going up from the stove every foot or so to the 90, 5' up and 3' out. 135, 143, 154, 160, 165 at the 90. I disconnected the fresh air tube and held a smoke in front of it, it does draw back toward the outside. Do you think that the outgoing hot exhaust on the inside tube can be preheating the incoming fresh air on the outside tube enought to creat a draw issue? It seems to run ok with the FA diconnected, but I have not run it enough to be sure.
 
GotzTheHotz said:
I know I'm beating a dead horse, but I have a new theory that I wanted to bounce off the group. The stove is working better post the combustion fan replacement, but still have the feed shut down all the way with very occasional pot over flows. I'm burning a new pellet with little or no difference. Here's the theory: Do you think it is possible that the cold air return is back drafting? I'm using the Selkirk tube-in-a-tube and have noticed that it gets fairly hot to the touch on the outside tube, I took some temps with the point and shoot therm last night. After running full on for over an hour, the temp of outside tube was the following going up from the stove every foot or so to the 90, 5' up and 3' out. 135, 143, 154, 160, 165 at the 90. I disconnected the fresh air tube and held a smoke in front of it, it does draw back toward the outside. Do you think that the outgoing hot exhaust on the inside tube can be preheating the incoming fresh air on the outside tube enought to creat a draw issue? It seems to run ok with the FA diconnected, but I have not run it enough to be sure.
Got no Idea on the selkirk Back draft theory. But if in removing the hose it got better Perhaps the problem could be a partially blocked air intake or the length of the intake is too long just a suggestion leave it disconnected tonite but close off the connection to the sellkirk in case smoke does want to come down, I would think the back draft would only make the stove a bit more efficient as you are using pre-heated air to aid combustion rather than cold air..
I know the flow path of my stove, but not yours or anyone elses. Maybe MSG or Begreen can explain it to you.
example of a harman:
Comb blower turns on creates negative pressure inside stove... positive on exhaust pipe, Now since the inside of the stove is negative it is a vacuum so air needs to come into the stove at some point or it would implode (well maybe not that extreme).

So on the back of my stove I can hook up a hose I think it's 2 1/4" but with it removed there is a reverse damper....that is it opens inward toward the stove due to vacuum.... The air flows into this opening some goes to the airwash and the rest goes under the burnpot through the holes in the front of the burnpot. It then goes around the inside of the stove along the heat exchangers to the comb blower and out the pipe....
On my stove the main draft robber seems to be the ash that collects under the burnpot in the air flow chamber perhaps there is a build up of ash somewhere in your stove.
This is the draft that the harman guy's talk about and why it is important. Like I said don't know 'bout quads But my brother inlaw said it was your thermocouple or the fact that you burn corn...... I'll let the others respond to that one.....
Any way to make my long story short, If it is drafting related Either you have a blockage somewhere in your stoves venting path (which is not enough to trip your vacuum switch) or you have an exhaust or intake problem. What's the termination cap look like?

Again this is assuming that the t/c is in correct location and all other avenues were checked. From what I remember there was another thread you had going here on the same subject and everything had checked out which is why I have only mentioned airflow through the stove on this thread.
Did you ever swap out the control board?
Good luck
 
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