Pellet Stove placement help?
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That looks good but mine is going in the corner facing forward not horizontal with the wall. It appears they don't offer a squared version of that board which would look better with the way my stove will sit.
bogieb
Minister of Fire
Ooh, that is bad
. Hope you are healing up quickly and well. I'm sure you were going stir crazy without being able to be active.I'm running out to lowe's to get some stuff and grab that stove pad. After taking some measurements it appears I can make it work.
I have a question though. I'm supposed to use high temp sealant on the pipe connections. Do i have to use it on the outside pipes? I was thinking of not using it on the outside T section so I can remove it for cleaning out the pipes in the future.
I also found a stove store not far from here that sells 100% oak pellets with no bark at $250 a ton.
I have a question though. I'm supposed to use high temp sealant on the pipe connections. Do i have to use it on the outside pipes? I was thinking of not using it on the outside T section so I can remove it for cleaning out the pipes in the future.
I also found a stove store not far from here that sells 100% oak pellets with no bark at $250 a ton.
bogieb
Minister of Fire
No, you don't need to seal the outside pipes. Use RTV on the stove appliance adapter (if you have to use one), then use silicone self-sealing tape on the rest of the joints that are inside the house.
rich2500
Minister of Fire
I would atleast aluminum tape the outside joints to keep water out.
250 is about the going rate for hardwoods
250 is about the going rate for hardwoods
i got the tape at home depot
http://www.homedepot.com/p/Nashua-T...sing-Silicone-Tape-in-Black-1208952/100206050
http://www.homedepot.com/p/Nashua-T...sing-Silicone-Tape-in-Black-1208952/100206050
rich2500
Minister of Fire
bogieb
Minister of Fire
Also at a lot of local hardware stores (either Nashua brand or X-treme tape). NOT usually found in the heating aisle, but in the generic tape aisle. You may even get your pick of colors.
That's what I thought when I went to Lowe's. I checked the tape aisle and they had lots of painter's tape, duct tape, etc but nothing for high temp except this foil tape rated for below freezing and up to 300 degrees. It was $15 for a 2.5 x 100 roll and I couldn't justify buying that much tape. Some of the shelves were completely empty with no labels so I guess they were in the process of doing a mod(change up) in that section.
Ok so I ran into a problem. It appears there are studs on both sides right in the direct path of the vent. My stud finder is also telling me there are wires behind the wall too. I'd have to push the stove forward quite a bit in order to get clearance for the 7" hole but then the pad will no longer fit in the corner and the stove will be too far forward and look out of place.
It's funny how the pictures in the manual show the exhaust vent on the right side of the stove but it's actually on the left. If it were on the right side then everything would be fine.
Not sure how I'm going to do this.
It's funny how the pictures in the manual show the exhaust vent on the right side of the stove but it's actually on the left. If it were on the right side then everything would be fine.
Not sure how I'm going to do this.
bogieb
Minister of Fire
I looked up the manual, and sure enough clearance pictures show the exhaust port on the right. Only if you happen to pay attention to Figure 8, that shows the intake and outtake positions, and the following pictures for the ventilation examples do you question that.
You may be able to use a series of elbows - I had to do that to keep my exhaust away from a window and electrical outlet. You can't see the connections, but this picture shows that my exhaust is offset to the left of my stove - and my stove's exhaust is on the right side.
I have a stud right in that spot where your exhaust goes through the wall. There's also another one 8" to the right of it. It's a weird setup of studs. I think I may have found a solution though. If I go out of the stove with a straight section of pipe and then the 45 bend to the left wall then it will go between the studs. The only downside is it's exiting the street side of the house, which technically is the back of my house. I also planned to have a deck there in the future.
I gotta fiddle around with it some more and see what I can come up with.
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So I messed around with this all day and there's just no way of making it work in the corner unless I cut a stud. No combination of bends can get the correct angle to exit the wall.
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............until the fiance suggested moving the stove to the right a bit. So we did that and it lined up. I told her that's actually a good idea because I have the left side of the pad for the steel pellet bucket I plan to use. A win for the lady.
edit:
............until the fiance suggested moving the stove to the right a bit. So we did that and it lined up. I told her that's actually a good idea because I have the left side of the pad for the steel pellet bucket I plan to use. A win for the lady.
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Hey BogieB I have a question regarding that stove in your picture. My vent is pretty much the same but going the opposite direction. Do you disconnect the vent behind the stove in order to clean it out every now and then or is that not needed? My vent is really tight the way it is and the only way to disconnect it in the back is by removing the vent from the stove's rear exhaust pipe but that will have high temp sealant on it.
Lake Girl
Moderator
Hope your healing well and doing the PT like they are telling you! And yes, you are a burning junkie... still giving your lady fits I see.
Two Harmans aren't enough?? 
bogieb
Minister of Fire
No, I don't disconnect it. I have a cleanout at the bottom of the angle so any soot that may settle, goes there instead. I also use the Leaf Blower Trick (LBT so I haven't had any crud stick at the opening. Here are pics of my pipe and a closer up of where the clean out is.
Ok that makes more sense to me and I'll do it that way. Did you have a clean out T outside or just a 90?
bogieb
Minister of Fire
Mine just goes straight out. I do have a 45 on the end angled so that the prevailing wind doesn't go straight thru. No, I don't have optimum rise for drafting with only about a foot rise inside. But if power goes out my UPS will allow my stove time to go into shut down mode and to evacuate any smoke. I don't know if your stove will do that, so if you can give it more rise outside I would. In that case, it might not be a bad idea to put a cleanout outside too.
Lake Girl
Moderator
I have a 3' horizontal only with a turbo cap ... I've been standing next to it when power went off and all I've seen is a wisp of smoke like putting out a candle. Maybe so little due to the OAK but not a big concern with our stove. The smoke alarm gets triggered more from the toaster than the pellet stove 
Thanks for the responses.
I'm going to put a rise outside but not very high because my ladder can't reach much further than the thimble. My yard angles down and levels with the basement floor so the living room is 7 feet off the ground and thimble is at around 9 feet up. I had a few close calls when the sawzall got caught and almost tossed me off the ladder. lol
What kind of UPC you got Bogieb?
I have plans to get a 4000w generator from Home Depot or one of those Predator Gens from HF. We just had the power go out last week and I had to run some things off my inverter that was hooked up to my jeep's battery. It's only 1k watts though. It was funny seeing neighbors slow down as they drove by and noticed my house was the only one with electricity. lol
I'm going to put a rise outside but not very high because my ladder can't reach much further than the thimble. My yard angles down and levels with the basement floor so the living room is 7 feet off the ground and thimble is at around 9 feet up. I had a few close calls when the sawzall got caught and almost tossed me off the ladder. lol
What kind of UPC you got Bogieb?
I have plans to get a 4000w generator from Home Depot or one of those Predator Gens from HF. We just had the power go out last week and I had to run some things off my inverter that was hooked up to my jeep's battery. It's only 1k watts though. It was funny seeing neighbors slow down as they drove by and noticed my house was the only one with electricity. lol
bogieb
Minister of Fire
I have an APC BE750G on each of my stoves (you can usually get from Amazon for about $80 - if they are more expensive, wait a week and there will be a sale - or try Newegg). That is one of a couple that are certified by Harman to work as expected with their stoves; i.e., trigger the stove to go into a controlled shutdown mode instead of just having it run for another 15-20 minutes then abruptly getting turned off. As I stated earlier, I have no idea if your stove would do the same. Harman's detect the different sine wave (or some such stuff) and that triggers the controlled shut down.
I have a 3' horizontal only with a turbo cap ... I've been standing next to it when power went off and all I've seen is a wisp of smoke like putting out a candle. Maybe so little due to the OAK but not a big concern with our stove. The smoke alarm gets triggered more from the toaster than the pellet stove
My former Hastings would burp out smoke if there was only a power flicker. I mean a power flicker so short that the only reason I knew it happened was I would hear the blower stumble - even with an OAK and new gaskets all the way around. Probably the fact that I have two 90* elbows with only a 15" rise (at about a 25-30* angle) and 2' horizontal has something to do with that. That is the reason I got the UPS to begin with - although in the time it took to switch to using the battery power (yeah, that .0015 seconds), it would still belch smoke. Don't have that issue with the P43, but why chance smoke in a true outage if I don't have to? I also put a UPS on the P61a, even though it has 5-6' rise (at about a 60* angle) as well as an OAK. It should vent well sans power, but $80 is cheap insurance as far as I am concerned.
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