Pex Patch?

  • Active since 1995, Hearth.com is THE place on the internet for free information and advice about wood stoves, pellet stoves and other energy saving equipment.

    We strive to provide opinions, articles, discussions and history related to Hearth Products and in a more general sense, energy issues.

    We promote the EFFICIENT, RESPONSIBLE, CLEAN and SAFE use of all fuels, whether renewable or fossil.
Status
Not open for further replies.

Eric Johnson

Mod Emeritus
Nov 18, 2005
5,871
Central NYS
Well, last night while replacing about 100 feet of 1" rigid copper with 1" pex-al-pex, I managed to cut into another 3/4-inch pex line with my Sawzall. I didn't notice it until I tried to pressure the system back up. Fortunately, I was able to isolate the 3/4-inch line and keep on truckin' with the 1." The new pex works great, by the way.

Anyway, my first thought was to cut out the damaged section and use a couple of connectors to bridge the gap with a piece of copper. However, I don't have any of the couplings, so I would have to order them from Michigan. But it seems like a shame to spend something like $25 to fix one lousy hole, plus I'd rather not wait.

So now I'm thinking about trying to patch it. I'm thinking maybe a piece of EDPM rubber with a couple of hose clamps, or maybe a piece of the pex, cut down the middle, and then laid on the hole and hoseclamped tight. I don't know. A Sharkbite fitting won't work on this kind of pex (wrong OD), and I'm not sure I want to start messing around with glue.

Any thoughts, observations or (polite) suggestions?
 
Eric Johnson said:
Well, last night while replacing about 100 feet of 1" rigid copper with 1" pex-al-pex, I managed to cut into another 3/4-inch pex line with my Sawzall. I didn't notice it until I tried to pressure the system back up. Fortunately, I was able to isolate the 3/4-inch line and keep on truckin' with the 1." The new pex works great, by the way.

Anyway, my first thought was to cut out the damaged section and use a couple of connectors to bridge the gap with a piece of copper. However, I don't have any of the couplings, so I would have to order them from Michigan. But it seems like a shame to spend something like $25 to fix one lousy hole, plus I'd rather not wait.

So now I'm thinking about trying to patch it. I'm thinking maybe a piece of EDPM rubber with a couple of hose clamps, or maybe a piece of the pex, cut down the middle, and then laid on the hole and hoseclamped tight. I don't know. A Sharkbite fitting won't work on this kind of pex (wrong OD), and I'm not sure I want to start messing around with glue.

Any thoughts, observations or (polite) suggestions?

I've done things like this and been sucked down the rathole. It seems to rarely work out the way you want. They make a simple pex-to-pex connector that would work, and our local hardware stores carry the stuff now (Aubuchon etc). I think you'll be happier in the long run doing it right - either wait to get the right connector, or rip out that section and use it elsewhere. My $.02.
 
I'm inclined to agree, but I'm going to give it shot all the same.

This is not regular pex, hence the hangup with the connectors. This is pex-al-pex, which has an aluminum layer between two layers of plastic. It acts as an oxygen barrier and makes the stuff pretty stiff, so it stays where you put it. However, the OD is larger than regular pex. The connectors are about $10 each, have a couple of O-rings and a pressure fitting nut. I called the mfg this morning and the nearest place that sells them is quite a ways away.

But I'll probably end up ordering a few just to have some spares on hand.
 
What plastic is pex, Polyelthylene? If so good luck with glue, the stuff only sticks to its self. Find a glue that works and you'll be rich. We did the same on a plastic holding tank in a boat, had to tear the boat apart to replace the whole tank. MFG. Acutally recommended melting a piece to it.
 
I wouldn't trust glue. This is either a pressure-fit patch or nothing.

I wish I hadn't used the 12-inch blade on the Sawzall.
 
Eric, I had a similar situation when piping the garn 1/1/4 supply line, my system pressure is low ,8psi. at 17gpm I used a barbed brass well line connector, high temp silicone and 2 hoseclamps per side. I had to (soften) the pex carefully with a torch in order to insert the connector, the pex when cooled contracted around connector sealed with silicone and clamped. Before putting this into service, I tested with a scrap piece of pipe, could not pull apart with one end in a vice, crude but I bought it. You could air test to sample at your operating pressure. good luck
 
Marginally off-topic question...

I haven't played with the pex-al-pex. The stuff I'm using has an O2 barrier, but it doesn't have aluminum. As far as I can tell, the barrier is a formulation thing or a film. I thought the aluminum was for high pressure applications. Am I completely off-track on this?
 
Thanks, Tom. I think I'll give that a try. I have a couple of other ideas, but I need to buy some small diameter hose clamps first.

I bought what my heating supply guy suggested, Bill. I like the implied extra durability (though no match for a Sawzall) plus the fact that when you bend it, it stays put. One of the downsides, obviously, is the proprietary fittings. I'm using Mr. Pex brand. Kind of embarrasing.
 
Status
Not open for further replies.