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Pic of inside my masonry chimney. Do I have a lot of Creosote?

Post in 'The Hearth Room - Wood Stoves and Fireplaces' started by NewtownPA, Oct 11, 2007.

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  1. philaphire

    philaphire Member

    Joined:
    Sep 24, 2006
    Messages:
    214
    Loc:
    Blue Bell, PA
    Newtown - I bought from Rockford and didn't have an issue. They only have one type of appliance connector which slipped right into my Rainer's collar - just be sure to tell them you need an appliance connector and not a tee. The "pyramid" top plate also worked fine on my 8 x 12 tile it's just that the long sides will require more caulk, while the short sides line up and seal fine. For an additional $50 or something they do sell a top plate that is flat designed to fit on top of the rectangular terra cotta if you wanted to go that route. Also, they sell either .005 and .006 and their default is .006 so ask them for .005 to get the "maximum flexibility." Read flexible as: if you pull on it hard enough, it will bend! I ordered the .006 and had to get it to bend a little to go into my 45* flue collar. It literally was a matter of muscle and took a couple pulls. Re: if you damper is big enough, If you can get up to the damper, you can measure the opening OR you can get 6 inch round duct from Home Depot and see if that will fit, I believe Hogwildz did that when he did his. Best wishes!

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  2. If I can be of any help let me know.. we do offer a 6 inch kit that is ovalized in the last 5 feet to fit your application let me know.. we offer the kit that will take the oval to round piece as well...and will be much less then the rockford kit... again...let me know..this is direct from the manufacture...
  3. struggle

    struggle Minister of Fire

    Joined:
    Oct 24, 2006
    Messages:
    727
    Loc:
    NW Iowa
    Here is something I had to deal with on my 5.5 liner. Since I had no provision to use a tee as I was lining an existing clay tile chimney that had to aproximate 45 deg. turns and exited out a concrete wall into the house. So When the liner was dropped down and pushed the first turn and pulled and pushed through the second turn I had a5.5" liner just coming out of the tile passing through a brick facia into the room.

    My problem was I wanted to attach a 6" stainless steel sleeve to the liner and then 90 degree black 22 guage seemless pipe into a straight section into the stove. My problem was the stuff that came with my kit was set for the tee conection and I had no way of having the proper sleeve with what I had from the kit. Sooo I had my neighbor machine shop owner make me a heavy guaged sleeve of stainless welded seem to make the connection from the 5.5 liner well into the first clay tile and to be able to just fit into the 90 degree black pipe. IT works great. So I then cemented the sleeve into the clay tile with 2" of cement all the way around and then same guy made a block off plate of as an extra measure to cover the cemented thimble area and then I tap con screwed it into the brick area.

    A standard 6" pipe will slide over a 5.5 liner. so you will need to transition with one side crimp on a sleeve that can then adapt to your oval connection into your stove. To maintain the male to female connection all the way into the stove so no creosote can drain outside of the fittings.

    You will have no problems the way I see it getting a 5.5 liner in. I went from a vertical chimney exiting to a horizontal exit and while the last 18" where the worst to pull through you have a pretty much straight drop. My chimney had an inside diameter less then you have and I made two 45 degree turns. You can always taper the liner in a little on the end so it will not catch on the tile ledges.

    Keep in mind I got my liner installed past the first 45 degree turn all by myself and had the help of a neighbor to pull it the last 18".

    The way I see your biggest challenge is making sure you get a proper block off plate built for a proper airtight seal. It seems like all cake to me.

    Oh and I had no problem sealing my olyimpa cap to my existing exiting tile like someone else said wouldn't work for them. I used some type of polyurathane stuff and set it on that and the tightened the clamp and trimed the liner and then clamped the cover on.

    I also found that I am able to at the end of the burn season after brushing the liner able to slip a 6" stainless cap over the liner and reinstall the cap back on and then there is no smokey odor from down draft on the chimney in the summer time or birds making nest in the liner/cap.
  4. cogger

    cogger Member

    Joined:
    Oct 10, 2006
    Messages:
    193
    Burn hot, you'll never have a chimney fire. But then again this depends on your climate. $400?? I think he's been sniffing soot too long
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