Pictures of my drop ceiling opening in the basement, feedback needed...

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geek

Minister of Fire
Feb 28, 2008
1,470
Central CT
I ordered the 3" pipes and parts I need for my Santa Fe, corner install and going through the very last 2x2 tile in the corner.
Space between 3" PVC pipe and the beam to the right is about 9 inches, with 3" pipe this will give me a clearance of 3 inches on each side of the vent pipe.

The question is about the OAK. Due to the pvc pipe the wall thimble cannot be the one that has the hole for the OAK because that is about 13x13, the regular wall thimble is 9 inches which will perfectly fit, hopefully.

Wondering if I will need to direct the OAK through the next tile over to the right, see picture.
 

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different view...
 

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closer look..
 

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does the pipe you ordered require the 3" clearance, I ask because some only require 1". You may be able to use some snips to reshape the inner piece of the thimble to snug a bit closer to the PVC if you only need the 1". Then you might have enough room to run the OAK pipe to the right of the pipe and out next to the beam on the right.You could then punch the OAK hole right through the face of the thimble as long as you don't disturb the cylinder that passes to the outside. Does that make any sense?
 
yes, thanks

The Dura vents only require a 1" clearance, so I should be fine.
 
so I wonder how close can the OAK be to the exhaust pipe.....I'm thinking about using the flex OAK pipe just to connect it to the stove but then use a regular and small PVC pipe to go up the wall, what you guys think?

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well, you guys know my planning project is under way right now and will be installing stove soon; the question is about installing the OAK and best approach, as you can see in the pictures above.

The flex pipe may look ugly hanging in the air going up thru the drop ceiling, has anyone used PVC pipe (maybe 2 or 3 inch pipe) to make the run right against the wall and then the flex pipe just to connect to the stove and to connect to the outside cap?

If PVC pipe is fine, what about cutting the sheet rock and placing the PVC pipe inside the wall so the install is neat; otherwise if placing the PCV pipe right against the wall what about pickling the pipe so you can paint it with the same color as the wall?

Suggestions please........see pics above.....

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btw - the opening to the right of the beam is just about 3 inches
 
Daryl said:
http://www.selkirkcorp.com/Metalbest/Product.aspx?id=7428
You should check this product out direct vent pipe for pellet stoves.No more air lines run up your wall just one pipe 6 5/8" and 1 inch clearance.We use it for basement installs all the time.

I already purchased the pipes, dura vent.

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Its just outside air... you can run it through anything you want. Just use a 2" ID PVC to match the stoves inlet and you should be fine. Use the least amount of bends as possible for the best air flow.

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https://www.hearth.com/econtent/index.php/forums/viewthread/40914/

See this thread, they are saying you might need to use metal pipe for code. Makes sense, just in case the stove reverse drafts somehow.
 
anyone has suggestions where to run this OAK pipe, right against the wall?
has anyone opened a hole in the wall just to insert the pipe and feed though.....would like feedback on this please....
 
I would probabably use PVC or thin walled electrical conduit (painted black) mounted directly to the wall or just off the wall slighty running vertically. Any flex pipe running vertically will look hideous. Use flex on the bottom of the PVC to the stove. Then locate your exhaust vent in front and to the side of that using the clearance recommended for your vent pipe. Support the pipe using some metal strapping across the joists, and use a single pipe "stand-off" for each pipe at the bottom. If that ceiling tile is fire rated you could cut rough holes through it and use some decorative pipe collars at the top.

You can get some considerable condensation dripping off that OAK. I wouldn't want it trapped inside a wall.
Mike -
 

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thanks a lot Mike for the suggestion AND the art work....:)

I wouldn't think about condensation if the pipe is inside the wall because it will be cold air coming in, but thinking about it you might be right because the temperature inside the wall will be warmer and may create some condensation.....

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Yup, I've seen posted pictures on this forum of frost all over the OAK and complaints about puddles of melted ice on the floor.
Mike -
 
I've seen frosted over OAK lines personally.

I told the guy to turn down his humidifier. If the windows ice up the OAK line will also.

We ended up just ripping his OAK out totally.
 
guys, just made up my mind and decided to use PVC piping for the visible side in the basement, then flex connected to the stove and connected to the outside plate.

The final question is: can I use reduced pipe? The connection to the stove is 2 inches wide but wondering if I can reduce this and use like 1 inch PVC pipe....

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Reducing the size of the pipe will restrict the air flow drastically. My dealer recommended increasing the diameter of the OAK on any run over 6 feet.
 
yeah, thought about it....went to HD and bought the 2" black pvc pipe, my run would be around 7 feet ballpark.....install project is under way with a friend today.

When I went to HD they don't have a 7" saw to cut the hole for the thimble, I think I'll use a spide bit and cut small holes around the perimeter; will report back later ......

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