Please educate me on come-alongs

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tonelover

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Sep 15, 2009
32
Southern NH
Novice here, working on cutting down some pines that are quite safely away from any structures. I do however run the likely risk of the tops getting caught in the canopy on the way down. I'm working on small to medium sized trees, maybe diameters up to 16" or so, and want a come along to help when something does get stuck. I just don't know what to look for when purchasing one. 2 ton, 5, ton, cable, rope. Basically I just want a casual user level but strong and safe system that will allow me up to about 100 feet of length so I can ensure being safely away. Any information would be appreciated.
 
I have four come-alongs, three with cable and one with chain. The chain one is a commercial one, courtesy of Bell Atlantic, and my favorite to use. It only has about 12 feet of chain, which is fine... I always use heavy tow straps to make extend it for long runs.

The chain one is very nice for several reasons:

1. No cable to get bound-up on the drum.
2. I never skin my knuckles or catch a "meat hook" when using it. (Meat hooks are frayed strands of cable)
3. It works the same in both directions, so it's as easy to let out as pull in.
4. It has a freewheel mechanism, similar to any cable type.
5. The handle is repositionable to any angle.
6. It's capacity is WAY beyond any cable type I've seen.

That said, cable ones do the job, and are much cheaper. Don't get hung up on cable length. I actually wouldn't want any come-along with more than 25 feet of cable or chain. Get a bunch of 2" - 3" tow straps with hooks or loops on both ends, for your long runs between trees, if that's what you're using it for.

I rarely use one come-along alone. I almost always use two when using them to move something. I use one until I'm out of chain/cable, then connect another one into the next tow strap down the line. I leap frog them like that.

All this said, I rarely need one for pulling on trees. With just 100 feet of strap or rope pulled taught between two trees, pulling on the middle of the strap with 100 lb. of force generates tension of several thousands of pounds on the trees at either end. Simple physics... same reason you need thousands of pounds of tension on a zip line or tight rope, to prevent deflection when hanging a 200 pound man from it.
 
If the handle or any part of the body has tin on it, walk away. A come-along should be a one time purchase item that should last you a life time (in my opinion). Get a good one or you will be mad at yourself. Cheap ones suck.
 
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If the handle or any part of the body has tin on it, walk away. A come-along should be a one time purchase item that should last you a life time (in my opinion). Get a good one or you will be mad at yourself. Cheap ones suck.

Yep. Don't bother with Harbor Freight. I didn't even get the one job done that I bought it to do.
 
There was a good thread on here about a particular brand that used a super-strong rope. Supposed to be the best in the biz. Can't seem to find that thread.
 
I race sailboats, and there are some increadible lines out there. Not uncommon to see 20,000 lb. test zero-stretch lines as small as 3/8" diameter. Dyneema SK-75 can hit 41,000 lb. test in 7/16" diameter with no cover. Still, I prefer the durability of chain in the woods.
 
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An option to look at is a griphoist made by TIrfor. It works like a come a long but it tugs on cable instead of wrapping it up so the only limit is the length of a cable.
 
I've ruined several come-a-longs by "overloading" them causing the sides to cave in using arm strength only. The loggers use a much better cast metal (iron ?) come-a-long that is superior and will be my next purchase in this area. The failure mode for all of mine has been the sheet metal used to form the handle. It folkd up and makes unwing or reeling in much too difficult.

Before breaking, they've saved my butt. Had to winch the tractor up onto the trailer more than once using come-a-longs in the dark. Sometimes, all hydro tractors can suck. You lose pressure and no steering, forward motion, loader lift, or rear implement lift. Totally dead.

You don't want 100 feet of anything on the spool. Use lengths of line and only plan on sucking in twenty feet at a time. Two come-alongs are nice if you have to pull something with several 20 foot tugs that can roll away on you. Not required though since you can anchor the cargo, loosen the line and reset. You will be doing the ol' 3 steps forward and one step back.
 
Wyeth - Scott Company. Called a power puller. Bought mine several years ago and the rest of my come alongs went to the scrap yard!
 
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The other problem with the cheap come alongs is that they only have about six feet of cable. That seems to be just the right amount to get the slack out of your rig but not actually pull anything!

I second the Wyeth - Scott. I purchased mine directly from the factory.

http://www.wyeth-scott.com/
 
Yes, that's the one. How much did it cost you guys? I need a stocking stuffer.
 
Wyeth-Scott uses AmSteel Blue, one of the Dyneema SK-75 lines to which I was referring in my earlier post. Crazy strong stuff, but likely not as long-lived as cable in the woods.

If you do go with a rope-based system, you can buy AmSteel Blue for a heck of a lot less than the $3.50 / ft. they're charging. Check Annapolis Performance Sailing (www.apsltd.com).
 
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