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Please help with your proffesional opinions on this Liner/pics

Post in 'The Hearth Room - Wood Stoves and Fireplaces' started by mattjm1017, Nov 24, 2012.

  1. mattjm1017

    mattjm1017 Feeling the Heat

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    Ok so I installed my liner I talked to the manufacturer (sp?) He said to take a pipe and roll it over the first couple feet and feed it through the damper that way I wouldnt have to remove the damper. I did it all went well until I was done and realized I was 2 inches short so I bought a coupling from lowes and am in the process of putting it on I think it will work fine if I can ever get it finished. Here are some pics of the fireplace and the liner coming through the damper my concern is how the liner is squished and bent coming through the damper. Does it look ok to yall should I cut the damper out and unsquish the liner? Any other thoughts helpful advice are welcome IMG_20121102_103149.jpg IMG_20121124_120056.jpg IMG_20121124_120227.jpg IMG_20121124_120109.jpg IMG_20121124_163100.jpg

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  2. laynes69

    laynes69 Minister of Fire

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    I'm no pro, but I would not burn with a liner like that. It's too restricted and could cause problems. I'm not sure if you'll do further damage trying to straighten it out. I would have removed the damper in the fireplace, to accommodate the liner.
    mattjm1017 likes this.
  3. Pallet Pete

    Pallet Pete Guest

    Take the damper out and un-squish the liner it wont draft properly like that. It needs to be opened up in order for the stove to burn properly and not smoke out or get to hot either way that could be bad. The other issue I see is it may tear the liner which would be another not so pleasant problem.

    Pete
    mattjm1017 likes this.
  4. fire_man

    fire_man Minister of Fire

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    No question cut out the damper frame. My liner fit through without cutting, but it got "pinched" a little, so I cut the frame. Yours is much worse than pinched. I can't imagine how you could easily fit a brush through that smushed liner, let alone draft properly.
    mattjm1017 likes this.
  5. clemsonfor

    clemsonfor Minister of Fire

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    Damn!!!!

    chit you got that thing all beat to hell, its definitely going to effect the flow of it!!!
    etiger2007 and mattjm1017 like this.
  6. clemsonfor

    clemsonfor Minister of Fire

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    I don't even know how the hell you got it through there? I guess I did not read close enough, but who advised you to do this?
  7. Dakotas Dad

    Dakotas Dad Minister of Fire

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    1) I am NOT a pro.

    2) I have helped instal a couple liners..

    3) How do you have all that attached? And what "adapter" are you talking about? It looks to me like you are coupling to piece of stove pipe.. in an enclosed space.. with tape...?

    4)There is going to be NO cleaning that.

    5) I wouldn't burn what I see. Cut the damper. YES it means it is much more difficult to reuse the fireplace as a fireplace.. but not near as difficult as it will be after the house burns down. BTW, a sawzall with a GOOD blade, (this is the time not to buy the 5 for a dollar pack) will make quick work up in there, as will a die/angle grinder.

    6) Not sure why I felt like writing bullet style today..
    mattjm1017 likes this.
  8. webby3650

    webby3650 Master of Fire

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    The person from the manufacturer was right, you can gently ovalize the liner if you have to. But, it must be very done gently and only about 1", so it would measure 5" at the narrowest part. You should pull the liner, cut that busted up part off, and couple a new piece on there. You can order a coupler that is made just for coupling two pieces of flex together. What kind of coupler did you get from lowe's? Like was mentioned above, cut that damper out, what are the chances that you will want to use it as an open fireplace again? If you did, a lock-top damper/cap can be installed. No problem
    mattjm1017 likes this.
  9. mattjm1017

    mattjm1017 Feeling the Heat

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    Well Im definatly going to cut out the damper should have done that to begin with Im kicking myself hard. Clemsonfor I just took some pipe like a rolling pin ovaled the end of the liner and it slipped right in the manufactorer told me to do it and now Im pretty upset that I listened to him. Now to answer Dakotas dad
    It is a full liner from top of chimney to the firebox your probably seeing the insulation and tape for the insulation. I am putting a tee at the end of liner so that I can attach it to the back of my stove. The adaptor/coupling is something I found at lowes I have come up short and need to lengthen the liner by a couple inches. the outlet on the back of the stove is 22 3/4" to center and as the liner sits now its to high cause my dummy self didnt measure twice.
  10. mattjm1017

    mattjm1017 Feeling the Heat

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  11. webby3650

    webby3650 Master of Fire

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    You can't use that coupler in there, it's for stovepipe and won't last anytime in the chimney. Only SS is allowed in the flue by code, once it's in the room it can be black stove pipe. I don't think those dents in the liner will come out, if not, get the right coupler and add a new piece of flex.
  12. mattjm1017

    mattjm1017 Feeling the Heat

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    Thats not what I wanted to hear but it is. I thank you for the info Ill call the company tomorrow and have them send me a proper coupling and cut everything out and install new I have about 4ft leftover in my shed. This brings another question to mind though I have insulated the liner all the way down do I need to insulate it for the last 4 ft? will it make a differance? Thanks again I really appreciate all the help and advice that everybody has given me
  13. webby3650

    webby3650 Master of Fire

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    If the fireplace is on the inside of the house then I wouldn't worry with it. If it's on an outside wall then it would be better to insulate, but not the end of the world.
  14. clemsonfor

    clemsonfor Minister of Fire

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    don't worry with the insulation, this is going on the first 4ft right? The smoke is so hot there you wont have a problem, if its the last 4 ft that's a different story.
  15. rdust

    rdust Minister of Fire

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    x2, I would insulate the top the first 4' shouldn't be a problem without insulation.

    With that said if the insulation is being used due to the chimney not meeting code you'll need to insulate all of it.
  16. mattjm1017

    mattjm1017 Feeling the Heat

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    Alright I just ordered the coupling 316 stainless made for this. Ill have to wait until next weekend to take out the damper as Im being forced to go to another Thanksgiving dinner this afternoon. I really appreciate all the help yall have given me this is by far one of the friendliest and most helpful forums ive been involved with.
  17. mattjm1017

    mattjm1017 Feeling the Heat

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    Ok so I cut a big section out of the damper assembly and removed the door. The liner is no longer pinched through the damper and I was able to bring it pretty much back to round again. I got the stainless coupling and have just about everything ready to go. Should I put some fire caulk around the coupling or do yall think it will make a good enough seal, it fits on there pretty tight? Now hopefully my stove will be here next week and I can finally warm up.





    IMG_20121129_161143.jpg IMG_20121129_161255.jpg IMG_20121129_161328.jpg IMG_20121129_161405.jpg

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  18. etiger2007

    etiger2007 Minister of Fire

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    With as beat up as that liner is Im not sure youll be able to clean it or draft it well. Im not a pro but I would scrap that liner and re-do this. The pic im sharing is showing how a liner should look when your done , acouple dings here and there but to me your liner looks wasted. I really hope it all works out and you are safe. maybe call in a pro to ensure the family's safety.

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  19. clemsonfor

    clemsonfor Minister of Fire

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    Yea that liner is beat all to chit! I think I would cut out 5ft and then couple a clean new 5ft on that not all beat up. Like posted by tiger its a long way from normal.
    mattjm1017 likes this.
  20. webby3650

    webby3650 Master of Fire

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    The coupler will fit tight, there's no need for sealant. I often have to crimp the liner to get it to go on, so with it in rough shape on the end it might give you trouble. You said you were 2" short, since the coupler is about 6" long, you will need to cut a back a bit so the coupler isn't in your way when you put the T on.
    mattjm1017 likes this.
  21. mattjm1017

    mattjm1017 Feeling the Heat

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    I guess I forgot to mention Im cutting out a couple feet so as to accomadate the coupler and get it cleaned up a little. Another thought popped into my head though let me first say I dont intend to do this but am wondering if it can be done. Can the flexible liner also be used horizontaly tying the stove to the tee? Thanks for all the replies and help here.
  22. mattjm1017

    mattjm1017 Feeling the Heat

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    Alright heres the latest update. Almost all of the damper is removed I cut out all of the squished and ripped up liner and installed a new piece heres some pics of the final product. The liner is not in a bind at all and its very gently bent around the smoke shelf in the chimney nothing extreme are sharp like I foolishly did before. It was a major pain in my back but Im glad I listened to yall and fixed it I feel much better about it now.

    IMG_20121130_141705.jpg IMG_20121130_141627.jpg
  23. granpajohn

    granpajohn Minister of Fire

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    If I were a smoke molecule, I would just float right up that thing.
    Good work Matt; that looks fine.
    mattjm1017 likes this.
  24. mattjm1017

    mattjm1017 Feeling the Heat

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    Thanks granpajohn I struck a bunch of matches and blew them out the smoke was sucked right up theres a really good draft on this thing.
  25. chimneylinerjames

    chimneylinerjames Feeling the Heat

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    Looks way better! good work

    Well do you mean run the liner as the stove pipe? Can it be done, sure. Should it be done, NO. The liners are thin and designed to be inside a masonry chimney, use 22 gauge stove pipe.

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