Poor burns in new room

  • Active since 1995, Hearth.com is THE place on the internet for free information and advice about wood stoves, pellet stoves and other energy saving equipment.

    We strive to provide opinions, articles, discussions and history related to Hearth Products and in a more general sense, energy issues.

    We promote the EFFICIENT, RESPONSIBLE, CLEAN and SAFE use of all fuels, whether renewable or fossil.
Status
Not open for further replies.

WoodyDrew

Member
Dec 8, 2015
3
King & Queen VA
Hello all! After some frustration I stumbled upon this site and am glad I did!

I live in an old house- 1795, which had some fireplaces converted to wood stoves about 9 years ago. At that time both chimneys were restored on the exterior and interior.

The house has two floors above ground with an English basement. The bedrooms are on the top floor, the middle floor is the parlor and bedroom, and the basement has the kitchen and dining room.

All of the converted stoves have flue pipe running out of the back of the stoves 2' to a 90, then one 4' section vertically into the existing chimney. The is no damper plate nor is the opening sealed. These were installed by a certified installer, although the more I read I may be needing to revisit their correctness.

The bedrooms run Jotul F602's with no issue. The kitchen has a Jotul F 100 and heats as one would imagine.

My father in law lives with us and stakes his claim to the middle floor. In previous years he would retire to the parlor and finish his evening reading next to a fire- freezing his tail off! The original design was a Rumford style but was "boogered" up when the linings were done, and never heated well afterwards. He had a Jotul F100 in his bedroom but refused to use it. I should mention he is a Marine, might explain some things!

Anyhow, he is up in years now and since most of his time is spent in the parlor we decided to move the stove in there this year. I relocated it and reassembled everything as it was in the bedroom. Since he rarely had a fire in that room, on that floor, I do not have a reference to its previous performance.

What I can tell you is that we experience what I think is poor draft- I went through the stickies and it seems likely that is the problem. Fire lights well with door open and monitored, yet once the door is closed the fire dies out unless the door is cracked.

The manual references the pipe extending into the first flue, and according to the diagram they provide this is done. I am thinking that the pipe should be extended by another 4' section.

What are your thoughts?

Sorry this was so long winded!
 
Sounds like a few issues here . . .

For some reason I am thinking woodstove installations in bedrooms are usually forbidden . . . maybe someone can back me up or correct me on this one.

Sounds like you have a "slammer" type of installation . . . woodstove flue is just run up into an existing chimney without it going all the way to the top . . . this could possibly be one potential problem with the draft depending on the size of the chimney it is connected to. A better bet would be to run a liner from the stove all the way to the top of the chimney . . . better draft generally and better in terms of creosote . . . blocking off the chimney to not allow air up the chimney would also be a good idea . . . for heat retention.

While I highly suspect the issue is your draft . . . other possible problems could be things have shifted when you moved the stove and there may be something partially blocking the flue such as an insulation blanket or baffle out of place (found in many new woodstoves) or possibly unseasoned wood.
 
Thank you for the reply- I should have mentioned that I removed the lid and inspected/ cleaned the stove before reassembly and installation. I am 100% confident there are no blockages throughout the system. I should get up on the roof and inspect the top side, but initial smoke flow indicates no blockage there.
 
What you may be experiencing is simple. You effectively have a correctly sized chimney/stove pipe for only a 4 foot elevation change. After that you discharge into an open plenum that is the old chimney. That means that the draft moving air out of the stove is basically only 4 feet tall, which is way too short for most installations. If you carry that chimney at least another 8 feet it should work fine but that will leave you a hard to clean space above the real chimney before you vent above the roof. I would install a correctly sized flexible chimney to the end of the old chimney above the roof.
 
Agreed. The stove is dumping into a large chimney and losing draft. Run a full 6" stainless steel liner up the chimney for the stove and it should perform well.
 
Sounds like the thoughts are all headed in the same direction here. Thank you all for your input, I will update when I have gotten the pipe in.
How tall is the chimney from the opening of the fire place to the top? I have read many times here that uber 15' can produce poor draft.
 
You can't just dump smoke into an existing chimney not only will it surely produce a poor draft it is dangerous . Get stainless and make sure it is insulated too . You want to keep the flue gasses hot . This prevents creosote and aids in drafting. Wood stoves in bedrooms are frowned on these days . Make sure your other stoves. Have liners and aren't in the same boat
 
Status
Not open for further replies.