Poor Ignition

[henryd]

Resolute Acclaim Model #0041
I just replaced the Combustion Package, the Upper Firebrick and the Firebrick Arch Inserts and fired it up for the first time this year (Nov. 17, 2014). The stove is not burning hot when the Damper is open and the Primary Air Control open. I get excellent draw when the door is slightly open but it dies down when the door is closed. The Primary Air Control lever doesn't seem to have an effect on the fire.

Temperature isn't getting beyond 300 degrees on the stove and 250+ at the stove pipe with the Damper open and Primary Air Control to the right . That's comfortable for mild days but not near enough juice for real winter weather. It's "strolling" along and I want it to "gallop."

Can the Primary Air Control lever malfunction? I don't think the fire is getting enough air. Any suggestions?

Help!

 

[DAKSY]

How dry is your wood?

 

[henryd]

The wood has been stacked for 3 months and was cut in the spring. This is the same set-up I had last year. The majority of my wood is still stacked outside with a tarp over it and it appears to be quite dry.

 

[DAKSY]

So you haven't checked the moisture content? If it's not your wood, it could be something assembled wrong. It could also be your starting technique, but if you've been burning this unit all along without issues, then I'd look at your new components...

 

[henryd]

Bob: An hour ago I filled the stove with 3 pieces of quarter-cut logs and dampered down.
within the half-hour the temperature rose to a comfortable 550-degrees on the stove and 450 on the stove pipe. I've monitored it for the last 2 hours and the temperature is steady. I also set the Primary Air Control lever to mid-way and the temperature remained constant.

So-o I think I started the stove improperly. I was used to starting the stove with small wood and paper and let it run up to 600-degrees with damper open to let the stove and stove pipe burn off creosote. I would then put in heavier wood and the temperature would drop to about 500- 600-degrees. Perhaps with a lot of new parts in the stove it is now running the way it should have over the last years.

I will monitor the stove over the next few days.thanks for the input so far. How do I measure the moisture content?

 

[homebrewz]

Welcome!

Are you sure the primary air control is actually opening the air intake? You can check the draw of air flow from the room with an incense stick. Perhaps there is some linkage in there which has failed and the air control is not working as it should.

Perhaps when you replaced those parts and reassembled the stove, you sealed up some of the air leaks which made the stove take off. It should be airtight, and should be responsive to the primary air control.

Moisture meters are available at most hardware stores. You can also use an ohm meter with some calculating (see a sticky in the Woodshed Room for that info).
Take a piece of your wood, and split it. Measure the fresh split side to get an accurate reading of internal moisture content. Basically, anything less 20% moisture or less is considered seasoned.

 

[henryd]

Hi: Thanks for the input to my question. I started a fire again today to retest my experience from yesterday. Once again the fire started off slow with paper, kindling and smaller split wood. With door open it 'raged' and with door closed it poked along. I will see how things go once I've got some good embers. Yesterday I put on 2-3 larger (split) logs and the temperature rose to 550-degrees.

I have to take off the bottom cover (4 screws) to check the linkage of the Air Control Lever. Once I get there I don't know what it will look like but I'm sure I can see if it is functioning properly.

Curious to see what the moisture content is of the wood after sitting for 3 months stacked.