Possible draft problem.

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The clearance requirements should be on the label on the back of the stove.

Not moving the stove very hot. lol


Take the tape measure and see how much room there is between the pipe and the wood to the left and right. That will determine which one of the listed options in the article is possible.

Left 7.5"
Right 5.5"
Below 4.5
Top 16"
 
I imagine the stove was cold when being installed, right?

Unless you want to remove the left side wall to behind the chimney back till it's flush with the chimney and cut back the right shelf, the safe-t-thimble could be the only option. It's about $30 less at Northern Express
http://www.northlineexpress.com/chi...saf-t-thimble-for-5-and-6-stovepipe-3006.html

PS: Are all the pipe joints screwed together with 3 screws per joint?
 
PS: Are all the pipe joints screwed together with 3 screws per joint?

No I did not. Weather permitting I will get the right screws tomorrow.


Unless you want to remove the left side wall to behind the chimney back till it's flush with the chimney and cut back the right shelf, the safe-t-thimble could be the only option. It's about $30 less at Northern Express http://www.northlineexpress.com/chi...saf-t-thimble-for-5-and-6-stovepipe-3006.html

My Spouse and I are in agreement redoing the whole thing with cinder blocks will probably cost as much if not more then a saf-t-thimble.

I will also expend the pad by 12 inches. I believe it will allow me to install two 45 degree angles. That will work in my favor.

Thank you my Dear Friend for your awesome advice and caring about the safety of others.
 
Why not just set the stove on the floor? If you run the 45s as you were talking about you would have to set the stove out further into the room anyway.

To try to minimize work, $$ spent and such, is there a way to connect double wall directly to the liner? It almost looks like the chimney is sitting right behind the stove. If you have to open it up more to put the thimble in, would that affect the structural integrity of the chimney? Cutting a slightly larger hole for doublewall pipe might be easier.
 
It almost looks like the chimney is sitting right behind the stove. If you have to open it up more to put the thimble in, would that affect the structural integrity of the chimney?

The thimble will be screwed to the chimney see instructions: http://hartshearth.com/Download/Saf-T_Thimble_Instructions.pdf.
In addition the actual thimble is steel and I really do not want to remove it.


doublewall pipe might be easier.
. According to this it will not meet code: https://www.hearth.com/econtent/index.php/articles/passing_a_chimney

Why not just set the stove on the floor? If you run the 45s as you were talking about you would have to set the stove out further into the room anyway.

I cannot put the stove more then 36" into the room which means adding adding another 12 inches, The room is only 10 feet deep. And on the other side of the stove their is the washer and dryer. If it means I cannot put two 45 so be it
 
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I think that is meant for double-wall class A pipe which is not the case here.
 
I think that is meant for double-wall class A pipe which is not the case here.

OK but I still have another question. If I were to put Roxul could that work too. If not I will go to the original plan.
 
No.
 
Does it meet the 10-2-3 rule not idea never checked it

When I was on the roof I checked it meets the 10-2-3 rule.

It may take a closer inspection of the screen. Last year our screen plugged and I didn't see it with the binocs.

I went on the roof and checked the screen and it was not clogged so we are OK there.
 
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